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Advice for Resealing Hull-to-Deck Joint

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sethp001
Mainsheet C-25 Tech Editor

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814 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/16/2018 : 19:57:05

I am going to reseal my hull-to-deck joint this spring. The plan is to remove the rub-rail, scrape out as much old sealant as possible, and then reseal with 3M 5200 and install a new rub-rail.

Has anyone else resealed their hull-to-deck joint? If so, can you offer any advice?

Seth
"Outlier" 1987 Catalina 25 SR/SK/Traditional Interior #5541
"Zoo" 1977 Morgan Out Island 30
"Nomad" 1980 Prindle 16
"Lost" 1988 Catalina Capri 14.2 (sold - yay!)
"Marine Tex 1" Unknown Origin POS 8' Fiberglass Dinghy
https://whichsailboat.com/2014/07/27/catalina-25-review/

Edited by - sethp001 on 02/16/2018 19:57:44

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3754 Posts

Response Posted - 02/17/2018 : 21:15:20

My only thought is are you sure that it leaks? That would be an unusual location for a leak. Not certain, but I think Catalina uses a shoebox joint that would require water to move up through the bonding agent and over the hull lip before draining into the bilge. Leaks from the stanchions or genoa track would be much more likely.

Dave B. aboard Pearl
1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399
Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle

sethp001
Mainsheet C-25 Tech Editor

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814 Posts

Response Posted - 02/19/2018 : 13:24:10

quote:
Originally posted by Dave5041

My only thought is are you sure that it leaks? That would be an unusual location for a leak. Not certain, but I think Catalina uses a shoebox joint that would require water to move up through the bonding agent and over the hull lip before draining into the bilge. Leaks from the stanchions or genoa track would be much more likely.

Thanks, Dave. I am not sure yet. I need to test with a hose to try to be sure, which I plan to do when the weather warms.

I suspect the joint because the leaks are on both sides of the boat, and started suddenly after raising the mast and tightening the rigging for the first time since I've owned the boat. I tightened the rigging to the recommendations I found on this forum, which were approximately twice the rigging's tension (across the board) before dropping the mast. Marine Surveyor David Pascoe has written that over-tensioned sailboat rigs can induce serious leaking along hull-to-deck joints. I suppose that even if the new rigging tension is inline with recommendations, if it induces leaks, it's over-tensioned.

WesAllen
Navigator

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USA
222 Posts

Response Posted - 02/19/2018 : 18:37:59

I completely replaced my rub rail just a couple of weeks ago and found no way that any water could get through the joint. There was no caulk to scrape out, it was very solid fit. I didn't take pictures but maybe I should have. Replaced with semi-rigid rail from Taco. Pretty straight forward job.

Wesley Allen
"Breaking Wind"
1982 C-25 SR/TR/SK #2773
Hemlock, MI

jduck00
Captain

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USA
313 Posts

Response Posted - 02/19/2018 : 21:06:12

Not speaking to our boats, I have resealed the deck joints on a bayliner 19 with 5200. My buddy's boat popped a bunch of rivets on the deck seam after some hard waves. Filled the joint full of 5200 and bolted or riveted the joint back together. Been going on a few years with no issues. I don't doubt his boat will fall apart at some point, but it wont be that seam.

Speaking to our boats. I haven't removed the rub rail, but did have to do some bow repair a while back. I don't think Catalina used sealant. I found a very hard but brittle epoxy that seemed to be used to glue most everything together. On my boat at least, I can see that same epoxy between the hull pieces back in the quarter birth where I can see the seam. If they used that epoxy in the seam like the did on mine, there is now way the hull pieces will ever come apart short of a wrecking yard.

I've only had the rub rail off around the bow, but I have been all over the back 1/3 of my boat. I can probably dig up some pictures from the dumpster as well as the quarter birth. Hit me up if you're interested.

Jeremy Duck
The Lucky Duck
1980 SKSR Hull # 1850

bigelowp
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1736 Posts

Response Posted - 02/24/2018 : 08:20:39

Seth: I give you high praise for tackling such a project. I tend to take a deep gulp, open the wallet, and let the pro's handle structural repairs. Hope all goes well!

Peter Bigelow
C-25 TR/FK #2092 Limerick
Rowayton, Ct
Port Captain: Rowayton/Norwalk/Darien CT

sethp001
Mainsheet C-25 Tech Editor

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814 Posts

Response Posted - 03/04/2018 : 22:02:03

quote:
Originally posted by bigelowp

Seth: I give you high praise for tackling such a project. I tend to take a deep gulp, open the wallet, and let the pro's handle structural repairs. Hope all goes well!

Thanks, Peter. I figure there's no sense in me paying someone else to screw it up when I screw it up all by myself.

sethp001
Mainsheet C-25 Tech Editor

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814 Posts

Response Posted - 03/04/2018 : 22:04:58

Thanks for that info, Wes and Jeremy. It would be so great to not have a leaking hull-to-deck joint. I'll try some testing in the spring and maybe resealing the foresail track and stanchions, and see what happens.

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3367 Posts

Response Posted - 03/05/2018 : 05:09:57

The thing that concerns me about attending to a potential leak such as hull-to-deck, is understanding the joint make-up. The worst possible outcome would be that a resealing prevents water from entering the boat but still allows water to enter and pool around the laminate/core if the fiberglass there is not completely solid.

Since it does not cost anything to ask, I would go to the Catalina Mfrs website and look up their contact EMail/phone info for technical assistance. I would indicate your concerns and what you are planning on doing and if they have a schematic/drawing of your boat year hull-to-deck details. That way, you can see what areas need to be checked/re-sealed. They may also have recommendations on how to go about repairing it and sealer to utilize.

Larry
'89 Robin's Nest#5820, Potomac River/Quantico, Va
http://catalina25.homestead.com/olarryr.html

Edited by - OLarryR on 03/05/2018 05:14:21

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3754 Posts

Response Posted - 03/05/2018 : 09:29:17

The hull to deck joint is a structural joint and is bonded with resin or something like 5200, not just sealed.

Dave B. aboard Pearl
1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399
Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5231 Posts

Response Posted - 03/05/2018 : 19:38:11

Funny that it started after you retightened the rigging on both sides. The rigging is attached to the chainplates. It�s conceivable that you disturbed the chainplate bedding bilaterally while doing that.
Old Dr Einstein had a theory that goes a little something like this:
If a phenomenon can be explained by two contrary theories, chances are that the one with the simpler explanation is probably correct.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

Edited by - Voyager on 03/05/2018 19:40:49

Good Times
1st Mate

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45 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2018 : 07:23:07

I agree, the last place this boat would leak is the H/D joint.

I suggest to tape paper towel or toilet paper along the insides of the hull also in the lower parts of all the compartments (V-berth bilge etc) and under the chainplates to find out where it actually comes in.
Since you overtighten the stays it is possible that the area under the mast foot got compromised/depressed; if water gets in there it can work its way down inside of the laminate and run down both sides cabin ceiling. In my experience a nice steady rain works much better for subtle leaks than trying to chase it with a water hose.
Keep looking

Andy Kohler

C25 #6012 TR WK
traditional layout

16ft Hobie Cat
23.5 Hunter

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2018 : 07:51:51

Chalk lines can also help. Running water will wash gaps in the lines.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

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