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 Another Port Light Project		  New Topic  Topic Locked
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bjoye
Navigator

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USA
105 Posts
Initially Posted - 05/25/2017 :  11:27:09  Show Profile
Time to replace the fixed port lights. The previous port lights were crazed and cracked, and leaked. I purchased a replacement set from Catalina Owners. They arrived in short order and the fit was very good. The instructions called for installation using just Dow 795, and the kit included 2 tubes. But at the last minute, I ran across the following video:

https://youtu.be/MQyjxVUskd8

which makes a very good argument for using 3M (V)ery (H)igh (B)onding tape and Dow 795 as a glaze. I’m very glad I used this method. Excellent results. I ordered 2 rolls of 3M VHB Tape 5952 from Amazon, at $25 per roll. Each tape is 5 yards, enough for 2 windows.

First I had to remove old windows and remove the old sealant. The previous installation had used a number of different methods including some form of silicone, some other unknown sealant, and cheap butyl tape.



The silicone was the hardest to remove. I used a razor blade to remove most of it, followed by 220 grit wet sanding.



Following the video, I laid out the VHB tape.



Next the tricky part. As the video says: You have one chance, there are no do-overs. I practiced several times placing each window exactly. At first, I followed the video, using fingers on the sides as a guide. The results were not bad, but not perfect. Next method I tried was to place one corner, then lay the window down concentrating on the diagonal corner. This worked perfect. Once the window is in place, the tape really grabs it, with 50% of the bound within 10 minutes.

Next, glaze the windows with Dow 795. Following the video, I masked off the rim and applied Dow 795. I’m really not good at chalking as the picture shows. You need to apply just enough to fill the void, but not too much. Then you should run you finger around just once. My mistake was to play with it too long. I also laid it on too thick at one point. When I lifted the tape, it left an edge. Another mistake: at first I tried latex gloves. Just use your finger and clean with mineral spirits. One point I’m not sure of: when to remove the masking tape. I waited one hour, but I think you should remove it right after you finish glazing.



Best part of this method is that I had all 4 windows installed and glazed in less than 2 hours (not counting removal of the old set). That night we had 5 inches of rain and not a drop from the windows.
"Frayed Knot" 1989 C-25 WK/SR #5878

dasreboot
Admiral

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803 Posts
Response Posted - 05/25/2017 :  12:54:33  Show Profile  Visit dasreboot's Homepage
good video! if i have to do again...
Todd Lewis
Eowyn 87 TR/WK C25 #5656
ARWEN 84 TR/SK C25 #4031
www.mainsailsailingschool.com
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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3992 Posts
Response Posted - 05/25/2017 :  13:15:32  Show Profile
Very nice job. I love that guy's videos having seen many of them. It seems like a cleaner way than using caulk to hold the windows in place.
Wow, I just saw the price for the replacement windows, $590.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound


Edited by - islander on 05/25/2017 15:47:27
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Sailingoldsailor
Deckhand

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USA
13 Posts
Response Posted - 05/31/2017 :  14:34:48  Show Profile
Excellent article and project - thanks for doing that. I have an 84 C-25 with Aluminum frames and having issues removing the frames! Question - would you know if the older boats have the recess built into the cabin top shown on your photos? I assume my boat does not have them. I replaced the ports on my 86 C-22 which looked like yours.
Thanks
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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3754 Posts
Response Posted - 05/31/2017 :  16:46:39  Show Profile
Correct, there is just a rough cut hole.

Dave B. aboard Pearl
1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399
Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3992 Posts
Response Posted - 05/31/2017 :  16:56:27  Show Profile
I've seen it done. The lens have to be placed over the opening. There isn't an indentation for the lens to sit in. You also have to figure a way to trim out the interior.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound


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Sailingoldsailor
Deckhand

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USA
13 Posts
Response Posted - 05/31/2017 :  19:42:39  Show Profile
Thank you very much - good information
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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5231 Posts
Response Posted - 05/31/2017 :  20:44:57  Show Profile
Scott, what would you suggest for the inside trim? Starboard, teak or plasteak? The old aluminum frames would likely be corroded and detract from the look of the new portlights.
Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain — Milford, CT
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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts
Response Posted - 05/31/2017 :  21:10:33  Show Profile
Bruce, why Starboard or Plasteak? It's inside! Go big: teak or mahogany! All it takes is a skilled cabinetmaker with experience in marine joinery... (That'll make the exterior project seem like nothing!)
Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
Edited by - Stinkpotter on 05/31/2017 21:11:47
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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3992 Posts
Response Posted - 06/12/2017 :  09:47:07  Show Profile
Low and behold here is a photo of putting smoked plastic over the aluminum frame window holes. stang9150 posted this pic on another thread about his Bimini install but I noticed his windows had been converted so I stole his photo. Maybe he could offer up some info on the project.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound


Edited by - islander on 06/12/2017 09:49:12
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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.