Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Does anyone have a good fix for this friction strip or know what I can use to replace it? It always comes unglued. It is the friction strip under the main hatch that one has to move to gain entry into the cabin. Any ideas?
1) Completely remove the hatch (requires removing wood and plastic stringers from the front edge). 2) Polish all white residue off bottom sides of the hatch (assuming you have the all-acrylic hatch shipped on all but the latest model years). 3) Remove any remanants of the old strips from the fiberglass. Then remove all traces of old adhesive and other stains from the fiberglass channels. Use acetone and MEK, and keep working at it until it's perfectly white like new. The solvent will also dull the finish, allowing for good adhesion of the new strips. 4) Cut the strips long enough to extend an inch or so forward of the ceiling panel, and apply them to the fiberglass channels. You need to make sure the hatch is still on top of the strip when it's pressed fully forward. If not, the hatch will hang up when closing, and ultimately will start to peel the edges back. The strips will be completely clear (invisible) once applied.
Be prepared to adjust to the hatch moving much easier. I was so accustomed to pushing to overcome friction that I was slamming the hatch forward until I got used to it.
Rick S., Swarthmore, PA PO of Take Five, 1998 Catalina 250WK #348 (relocated to Baltimore's Inner Harbor) New owner of 2001 Catalina 34MkII #1535 Breakin' Away (at Rock Hall Landing Marina)
This is a great remedy....I am about to order the tape...is 1/2" wide tape wide enough? Here is a link to the area that was juts cleaned off and we noticed this ledge in the middle...This ledge is adjacent to the hatch and held in place with 4 screws.
1) Completely remove the hatch (requires removing wood and plastic stringers from the front edge). 2) Polish all white residue off bottom sides of the hatch (assuming you have the all-acrylic hatch shipped on all but the latest model years). 3) Remove any remanants of the old strips from the fiberglass. Then remove all traces of old adhesive and other stains from the fiberglass channels. Use acetone and MEK, and keep working at it until it's perfectly white like new. The solvent will also dull the finish, allowing for good adhesion of the new strips. 4) Cut the strips long enough to extend an inch or so forward of the ceiling panel, and apply them to the fiberglass channels. You need to make sure the hatch is still on top of the strip when it's pressed fully forward. If not, the hatch will hang up when closing, and ultimately will start to peel the edges back. The strips will be completely clear (invisible) once applied.
Be prepared to adjust to the hatch moving much easier. I was so accustomed to pushing to overcome friction that I was slamming the hatch forward until I got used to it.
From your photo, there are two plastic guides attached by screws. The one above prevents the hatch from being lifted or kicked out of the groove. The one below prevents the hatch from moving left/right for a better fit.
I cracked the upper guide when I stepped on it when the hatch was open. I haven't thought of removing the lower guide, it is difficult to clean the drain channel next to the hatch.
I first used the Sliding Hatch Teflon Tape from CD, P/N:Z1807. While it was good... it was 3/4" wide and much stiffer. The edges never laid flat well and it eventually failed.
I just finished applying this suggestion (UHMW tape from Amazon) and it went down very well, and at 1/2" will not have the edge issue.
My prep was somewhat different, heat gun and putty knife, followed by paint thinner, then finally Acetone to clean the surface and remove the remaining residue from both the previous tape and the thinner.
FWIW, I made the exact same improvement on my C34 as I had done on my C250. For the C24 I used 3/4" wide strips, because the slider channel was a bit wider.
Rick S., Swarthmore, PA PO of Take Five, 1998 Catalina 250WK #348 (relocated to Baltimore's Inner Harbor) New owner of 2001 Catalina 34MkII #1535 Breakin' Away (at Rock Hall Landing Marina)
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.