Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Hi all, Here is a link to my sailing blog. I just posted some ideas regarding "to" hull pipes vs thru-hull fittings. Enjoy. http://barnaclebillholcomb.blogspot.com/
Well said. (Bill--you get barnacles there in Idaho??)
We've had a few reports here that were scarier--where the bronze pipes literally disintegrated in the process of being removed. (No vice-grips required!) Salt water, which was not an issue for Bill, probably contributes. Stray current in a marina is an even bigger threat.
I don't know the exact changeover on C-25s, but my 1985 had what I considered proper thru-hulls, although not bronze. They were some sort of composite that had flanges counter-sunk in the fiberglass on the outside of the hull and plastic screw-down collars on the inside, with plastic ball-valve sea cocks (rather than gate valves).
If you have no visible flange on the outside (not even counter-sunk) and a mound of resin around a bronze pipe on the inside, you have a "to-hull" like Bill describes. Much of the original equipment from that era also included a "gate valve" (with a round handle) rather than a ball valve sea-cock (with a lever that turns 90 degrees). Gate valves, like old-fashioned spigots, rely on internal rubber washers and shaft packing that deteriorate and eventually leak. C-25s up to some time in the early 1980s had all of the above. After as many as 40 years, they should be re-fitted.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
My 1986 has composite through hulls also. I think it's Marelon. I can't tell from the outside because the fittings are painted over with the anti fouling paint, but on the inside, the visible threads are the same material as the ball valves which I took to be Marelon.
"Lady E" 1986 Catalina 25: Fin Keel, Standard Rig, Inboard M12 Diesel, Sail No. 5339 Sailing out of Norwalk Cove Marina, Connecticut
looking at the blog. I think its well established that there is no evidence that POSH stands for "port out, starboard home". I'll probably try to take your entire quiz sometime in the near future.
I'm finishing a restoration of a '78 SR/SK that will splash in the spring after about 2 and a half years of work. Those "To-Hulls" had to go. There were 4 in the boat, galley, head and 1 for each of the cockpit drains. I just repaired the hull. I put the cockpit drains together and out the transom under the bottom gudgeon.
I've never commented on the boards before but I have gleaned a great deal of help from them in the past 2+ years. To all of you a Great Many Thanks. I have also learned a lot from the hands on 'School of Hard Knocks'. She was a Hull Up restoration. I'm putting the Albums together now but have 500+ pictures to go thru.
Jim Ventimiglia Toms River Yacht Club '78 Cat 25 #945 SK/SR "Pipe Dream"
Wow--there's some pretty plumbing! Glad you're on the case!
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
Mine are coming out in a couple months. I can hardly stand to know I have two of them in there. The head appears to have come with a marelon thru hole. They will be gone soon enough. The question is marelon or bronze?
Yes To hulls are not as long lasting as the boats . I tried to remove my sink valve and the to hull broke away with hand only on it so lucky I was out of the water... The Keel raising is also a To hull and I had a Thru Hull (bronze ) of suitable size drilled for the ball and inserted as a replacement .. Had to cut off the sides of the external flange to fit up into the Keel slot lots of gunk tightened it up and worked great .
Check that out. I should have snapped a pic of the interior ... but just what is visible, it's about a square foot of fiberglass, about 2-3" thicker than the hull (raised up). Not a volcano, more like a hill :)
Funny enough, the thru-hull under the v-berth actually has the flange. Looks good, though I'll replace it with a newer one using the proper plywood backing plate.
Anyway, this thing seems to be IN THERE. I don't think it'll move.
You think it'd be awfully bad to just grind down the exterior like I am, and full it with epoxy before I glass over it properly? How bad would it be to leave the pipe in if I need to?
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.