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Removing My Outboard

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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4275 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/08/2018 : 17:25:24

I want to do some work on my 1989 Suzuki 8HP outboard. Problem is I cannot get it off the motor mount because the hold down clamps are seized in the mounting bracket.

Over the years I've tried to get it to loosen up by applying various types of penetrating lubricants and rust/corrosion busters but to no avail.

Any suggestions?

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GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX

Edited by - GaryB on 02/08/2018 17:25:57

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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3367 Posts

Response Posted - 02/09/2018 : 05:10:22

Gary,

That's a tough one !

Possibly try heating up the clamp a bit with a mini-blow torch/soldering/brazing gun - Then use pliers, etc to try and turn the clamp handle. I know that I have done this with some fasteners but not related to my boat. Auto mechanics will somentimes heat up the tie rods when they have to break them free to do adjustments as part of a wheel alignments. So...maybe that will work.

Larry
'89 Robin's Nest#5820, Potomac River/Quantico, Va
http://catalina25.homestead.com/olarryr.html

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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3992 Posts

Response Posted - 02/09/2018 : 05:59:47

Gary, If you have a Garhaur mount It might be possible to remove the 4 bolts that hold the mounting plate to the mount to get the engine off. Once off then it might be easier to work on the clamps.If you try heat you need to heat the mounting bracket, Not the threaded clamps to expand the metal and loosen it's grip on the threaded clamps.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Edited by - islander on 02/09/2018 06:46:31

bigelowp
Master Marine Consultant

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1736 Posts

Response Posted - 02/09/2018 : 07:59:51

I would check with Suzuki to see if you can purchase replacement clamps, if so I would cut them so you can remove your motor, then replace the clamps with new ones. I would not want to remove the motor mount unless it was the only last effort option.

Peter Bigelow
C-25 TR/FK #2092 Limerick
Rowayton, Ct
Port Captain: Rowayton/Norwalk/Darien CT

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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4275 Posts

Response Posted - 02/09/2018 : 08:40:04

Thanks guys. I thought about heating the clamp but a little worried due to the close proximity to the fuel connection and the carb.

I once had a Honda Prelude and when I tried to change the spark plugs in the aluminum head the plugs were very tight. The first one started to squeak really loud when I tried to loosen it. I knew if I kept going I would tear the threads out of the head.

Started the car for about 30 seconds, went back to take the plug out, and it came right out with no damage to the threads.

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GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3992 Posts

Response Posted - 02/09/2018 : 09:34:22

quote:
I would not want to remove the motor mount unless it was the only last effort option.

Wasn't what I suggested. Only the plate so its easier to work on. Definitely wouldn't cut them without having replacements but cutting them doesn't solve the problem of getting them out of the brackets. A combination of heat plus penetrating oil will generally free most things given time and perseverance. Gentle wiggling back and forth until some movement is seen or felt. Once slight movement has been established, continue with the penetrating oil treatment and wiggling until full movement is achieved. I've freed lots of bolts, blocks and shackles by this method but it does take time!

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Edited by - islander on 02/09/2018 09:36:29

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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3992 Posts

Response Posted - 02/09/2018 : 14:50:07

I came across this method of getting the penetrating oil into the center by drilling a small hole to allow the penetrating oil soak in. Start the video at 5:13. Worth a try.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GXuom3Pk2wQ

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

GaryB
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4275 Posts

Response Posted - 02/09/2018 : 19:26:59

Thanks Scott. Some good information!

I understood what you were saying about removing the plate the motor is mounted to. I thought about that as well but a couple of the bolts are underneath the motor bracket so I can't get to them (maybe with a sawzall). Really don't want to go that route unless I have to.

The video gave me some more ideas.

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GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5231 Posts

Response Posted - 02/10/2018 : 07:12:07

Is there any way to get a pipe wrench on the bolt? I've used that tool successfully when nothing else worked. If I can't get enough leverage I slip a 1" pipe over the handle.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

islander
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3992 Posts

Response Posted - 02/10/2018 : 07:49:05

Pipe wrench would probably break the the wing handles off and chew up the threads. In the video the guy shows this in the first half how people try wrenches without much success usually resulting in breaking the handles or snapping the threaded clamps off. I did a quick search on new replacements without much luck. Discontinued etc. So I would do my best to not destroy the ones he has.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Edited by - islander on 02/10/2018 07:58:11

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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5231 Posts

Response Posted - 02/10/2018 : 07:51:56

You can pull the handles off first by pulling the pin, then usually there's a flat spot for the pipe wrench.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

islander
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3992 Posts

Response Posted - 02/10/2018 : 08:02:24

True, but you still risk breaking the threaded clamps off like in the video then you'll have a real mess. I doubt their made from high quality metal.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Edited by - islander on 02/10/2018 08:04:50

islander
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Response Posted - 02/10/2018 : 08:34:20

Before I would resort to breaking out the heavy tools and possibly destroying the clamps I would try the non destructive ways first. Nothing to lose but a little time. If you do choose the heavy guns approach better have a plan B for repairing the possible damage.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

islander
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3992 Posts

Response Posted - 02/10/2018 : 13:45:39

To avoid breaking the handles off you could possibly remove them as Bruce said by driving the little pins out then thread two nuts on and lock them together. Then you can use a box end wrench to apply pressure. This as long as the ends aren't flared out preventing you from getting the nuts over the ends.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Edited by - islander on 02/10/2018 14:06:00

GaryB
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4275 Posts

Response Posted - 02/10/2018 : 15:50:17

One of the handles is already broken off. The ends have flats so I could try a large crescent wrench but I'm going to go the lubricant and heat method first.

If that doesn't cut it I will take a sawzall and hack up the would mounting pad. I should then be able to remove the motor and can bring it home and work on freeing up the clamps at home.

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GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX

Frank Law
Navigator

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159 Posts

Response Posted - 02/10/2018 : 18:24:23

You might try tapping with a small hammer to get some vibration allowing the oil to penetrate

GaryB
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4275 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2018 : 08:14:27

quote:
Originally posted by Frank Law

You might try tapping with a small hammer to get some vibration allowing the oil to penetrate

Good idea Frank! My dad taught me that years a ago and I hadn't thought of that.

Thank you all for the suggestions. I'll let you know how it works out.

Might be awhile though since it's rained every weekend for the past 4 or 5 weeks. They are already talking about it for next weekend.

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GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2018 : 10:47:52

I just read this thread... Tapping is definitely an important option to try. It can break loose the interior corrosion or galling that's at the heart of the problem. When all is said and done, make sure the threads are well coated with an anti-seize compound (as from Locktight or Permatex) before you clamp the motor back on.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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4275 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2018 : 15:08:10

quote:
Originally posted by Stinkpotter

I just read this thread... Tapping is definitely an important option to try. It can break loose the interior corrosion or galling that's at the heart of the problem. When all is said and done, make sure the threads are well coated with an anti-seize compound (as from Locktight or Permatex) before you clamp the motor back on.

Anti-seize was definitely already in the plan.

Association Member

GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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3367 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2018 : 04:03:19

Instead of a blow torch, you could try a heat gun.

Larry
'89 Robin's Nest#5820, Potomac River/Quantico, Va
http://catalina25.homestead.com/olarryr.html

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4275 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2018 : 18:58:01

quote:
Originally posted by OLarryR

Instead of a blow torch, you could try a heat gun.

Probably going to end up breaking out a BFH before it's all said and done.

Service Manager where I work gave me a can of stuff called "Free". It's made by Certified Labs. Certified Labs "Free" Penetrant and Release Agent

He said he's had nuts that were completely covered in very heavy rust and were unable to be removed even when using a wrench and cheater bar. He sprayed them with this stuff and let them sit an hour or two and they came right off using his hands. I was highly skeptical to say the least having heard these type stories in the past.

I sprayed some on the motor mount clamp threads on Monday before I pulled the boat for the bottom job. Never had a chance to try any of the methods you guys mentioned above.

When I got back to my slip on Thursday I remembered I hadn't checked to see if it worked. Reached back expecting the clamps to still be solidly locked in place. With moderate pressure using just my hands and the motor clamp that still had the handle on it, it started turning! I was shocked.

Association Member

GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX

Edited by - GaryB on 03/17/2018 15:50:47

bigelowp
Master Marine Consultant

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1736 Posts

Response Posted - 03/18/2018 : 05:11:03

WOW -- got to remember about "Free" for other projects as well, sounds like a real find if it works that well!

Peter Bigelow
C-25 TR/FK #2092 Limerick
Rowayton, Ct
Port Captain: Rowayton/Norwalk/Darien CT

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4275 Posts

Response Posted - 03/19/2018 : 16:57:41

quote:
Originally posted by bigelowp

WOW -- got to remember about "Free" for other projects as well, sounds like a real find if it works that well!

It does

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GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 03/20/2018 : 13:36:25

Makes me wonder if it's an acid that keeps on "working" on the metal... (?)

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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3992 Posts

Response Posted - 03/20/2018 : 14:39:14

Says it doesn't contain acids. Better work for the price.

quote:
Contains no acids and has no unpleasant odor. Leaves an oily, nondrying film after the solvent evaporates for added protection of metal.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Edited by - islander on 03/20/2018 16:03:00

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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4275 Posts

Response Posted - 03/20/2018 : 19:34:16

It did appear there was an oily residue left on the threads.

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GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX

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