Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I am finally tired of water running off the shelf and soaking the quarter-berth with every rain. After verifying that the starboard scupper was the source,I cut the brass tube in half to remove it, and it fell out! There was no bedding! The tube was simply inserted and flared to a compression joint. I'm not surprised that it failed sometime in the past. i'm letting it dry out while the weather is nice before putting the new ones in.
Dave B. aboard Pearl 1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399 Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
...Raw epoxy can not be exposed to UV or it will break down. So I'm ordering some 1.4"x3" tubes and the flanging tool from Amazon. I will apply one more thin layer of thickened epoxy to narrow the diameter just a little, then crimp into the hole the Moeller tube... The brass tube will protect the epoxy.
How about just smearing some of this stuff inside the hole. If the epoxy is fully cured, scuffed a little, and the amine blush is washed off (water soluble), it should bond just fine.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
I've thought about adding scuppers to mine for a while now. Not exactly sure on how I want to do it other than I do. My line of thinking so far is to add some decent size through hulls and fiber glassing the floor up to them. Will probably be on my summer to do list while I can't sail. I've got the drains that go down through the boat to the bottom. They seem to always be stopped up with a little something making a mess out of the cockpit.
Also thought about sloping the cockpit floor at the same time so it will drain with the keel down. I would rather leave the keel down at dock, but can't because the cockpit won't drain.
I am going with two part poly scuppers than can be easily replaced. I talked to a stinkpotter who has the same brand and is replacing them with the same ones after 12 years of Florida sun. That is certainly long enough for me. I intend to bed them with this new Sticky silicone adhesive caulk. Its fairly expensive, but comes highly recommended. It doesn't hurt that my daughter got me a multipack for Christmas because she thought it could be useful on a boat. Smart girl! Incidentally, mine is 1 5/8" diameter and I also cut it in half with a Dremel, easily removed the two halves, and put them back in with epoxy putty filling the cut while I await delivery of the new ones since Pearl is in the water. The marelon ones I bought would have required enlarging the holes and still had 1 5/8" ID.
Dave B. aboard Pearl 1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399 Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
Don't know how big but the boat,a Capri 25 was fitted for the 2014? Trans Pac ocean race from California to Hawaii single handed. Stuart (Doug) Paine and his boat Jack.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
The temporary repair and reinstall of the original scupper with bedding has cured the leak. A Florida deluge tested it. It was totally dry this morning, so yes, Steve, it is a joy.
Dave B. aboard Pearl 1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399 Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
I will be using plastic snap together or threaded. Not having to twist one end has some benefit for bedding. The repaired brass tube will be in place until I pull Pearl at the end of the month and do the prep and install on the hard and dry. Plastic snap together from T-H Marine is what the stinkpotter at the marina replaced after 13 years of Florida sun.
Dave B. aboard Pearl 1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399 Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
Anybody consider using regular home center 1-1/2 or 2" PVC pipe glued in with polysulfide? One of my scuppers is suspicious so if I can remove them both and replace them with PVC it might be a decent solution.
I would love to utilize a PVC pipe but I just haven't come up with a good and decent looking way for making the mushroom heads that would seal the interior and exterior edges without it looking llike a hack job.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
I would love to utilize a PVC pipe but I just haven't come up with a good and decent looking way for making the mushroom heads that would seal the interior and exterior edges without it looking llike a hack job.
I got it! Ill see if i can 3d print slip on mushroom fittings in abs. they can be glued to pvc using ABS to PVC transitional cement. that way i can get those cool large capri25 transpac scuppers.
I think I'm just going cut mine out and repair with the rest of the fiberglass work I have to do this spring. Already have plenty of fiberglass, epoxy, paint and primer to do a decent job I think!
quote:I got it! Ill see if i can 3d print slip on mushroom fittings in abs. they can be glued to pvc using ABS to PVC transitional cement. that way i can get those cool large capri25 transpac scuppers.
Wow, I never thought of a 3D printer to make the mushroom slip on end pieces. Brilliant! I'll be the first to buy 4 from you.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
For those using PVC pipe, please be careful. Unprotected PVC will break down in the sunshine. Use CPCV (the grey pipe) or plan on painting the PVC pipe, or make replacing it a routine maintenance item every few years.
"Lady E" 1986 Catalina 25: Fin Keel, Standard Rig, Inboard M12 Diesel, Sail No. 5339 Sailing out of Norwalk Cove Marina, Connecticut
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.