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 Electrical Refit version 3.0		  New Topic  Reply to Topic
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bjoye
Navigator

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USA
105 Posts
Initially Posted - 05/08/2018 :  09:27:22  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Third time is the charm

After my previous electrical refit projects last year, I’ve may several major improvements, call it version 3.0.

For starters, I’ve added a battery kill switch to the back of the battery box. Physically disconnects each battery from the rest of the system. In an emergency, instead of trying to disconnect the terminals, with flame/smoke/panic, just flip the switch. Also convenient when you are away from the boat for a month or two, just disconnect the batteries to avoid parasitic loads drawing down the batteries.


Second, rewired the back board of the AC/DC panels. Learned my lesson from last time. Don’t start to wire until you have a layout on exactly how/where to run the wires. Last time, I thought I would run the wires and ‘clean up’ after. I ended up with a bowl of wire spaghetti. This time, I mounted 2 boards of King Starboard HDPE in the locker, just below the AC/DC panels, laid out buses, fuse panels, and tie points before I started to wire.


Third, SmartGauge. I love it! If you not familiar with a SmartGauge, its a fuel gauge for your house battery. Gives you a percentage of state of charge (SOC), 0% to 100%, also gives you voltage for both house and starter batteries. It ‘learns’ your house battery (bank) usage, and maps voltage to SOC. No longer do I need to mentally map voltage to SOC (which is non linear and varies base on battery type). Now, I feel a lot more comfortable running down the battery with the inverter and auto-tiller, knowing exactly when I’m approaching the 50% level (i.e. you are about to do damage). Its easy to install, but expensive. It will pay for itself if you save just one battery from a premature death.


Forth, decentralization is the key. I ran dc buses to the head on port and starboard sides, where all interior lighting is connected (total of 9 lights) Also ran a separate bus to the starboard side head for 3 fans. Limits the number of wire runs from the the interior back to the DC panel and keeps things a lot simpler.

New toys: B&G Vulcan 7 chart plotter and V50/H50 VHF. The chart plotter has GPS and WiFi hub. VHF has DSC and AIS receiver. V50 will use GPS from chart plotter to enable DSC and chart plotter will use AIS from VHF to plotter AIS signals on plotter . All connected via NMEA 2K network, along with log and wind transducers and auto-tiller. I can almost sail the boat from my iPhone.




Lessons learned:

1. You are never done with electrical projects, you just get tired of working on it. Go sailing.
2. Try to plan ahead. Never the less, you may need to start over, its ok.
3. Decentralize. Decentralize. Decentralize.
4. Read Maine Sail’s articles on a marine electronics
https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/building-a-dc-electrical-foundation.181929/
https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/1-both-2-off-switches-thoughts-musings.137615/
5. Buy the proper tools. Up front costs, but will save money down the road.
6. Heat shrink vs crimp? Heat shrink hands down. Buy in bulk, especially #8 ring connectors. Cuts the cost in half.
"Frayed Knot" 1989 C-25 WK/SR #5878
Edited by - bjoye on 06/21/2019 11:03:34

jon300c
Deckhand

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USA
19 Posts
Response Posted - 05/08/2018 :  11:12:01  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
WOW, Now that is very impressive and clean looking. Well done!

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odonnellryanc
Navigator

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108 Posts
Response Posted - 05/08/2018 :  11:44:01  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Awesome!

I have a similar GPS and the same arm-mount. I had the issue that the GPS it pointed too much "to the sky" with the mount, and I believe I'll have to come up with some custom solution unfortunately.

Will look into SmartGauge. I have a small ammeter that works off a shunt. Works well. However, does not measure my solar draw. Just what's coming from the house bank.

I don't have my bilge on a switch. It is fused. I'd rather risk killing the batteries than have a sunk boat!

Your setup looks 1000x better than mine. Mine's very messy and just intended to do the job.

I feel like every time I do any electrical on the boat I find 10 new wires that aren't doing anything. :)
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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3992 Posts
Response Posted - 05/08/2018 :  11:52:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
All I can say is WOW! Other than that I'm impressed.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound


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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4275 Posts
Response Posted - 05/08/2018 :  17:31:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
My boat is waiting for you to start your next masterpiece! Keys in the port box. Let me know when you're done! LOL

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GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX
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sethp001
Mainsheet C-25 Tech Editor

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814 Posts
Response Posted - 05/08/2018 :  18:33:01  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Very nice!

I'm glad you installed a different battery monitor. As much as I like Blue Sea's panels, their analog voltage gauges leave much to be desired due to how they scale the gauge.

Anyone following this thread, you may also like the battery system state monitors from Mastervolt and Xantrex. They are also significantly less expensive than the digital monitor from Blue Sea.

https://www.mastervolt.com/products/battery-monitoring-panels/battman-pro/

http://www.xantrex.com/power-products/power-accessories/linkpro-battery-monitor.aspx


Seth
"Outlier" 1987 Catalina 25 SR/SK/Traditional Interior #5541
"Zoo" 1977 Morgan Out Island 30
"Nomad" 1980 Prindle 16
"Lost" 1988 Catalina Capri 14.2 (sold - yay!)
"Marine Tex 1" Unknown Origin POS 8' Fiberglass Dinghy
https://whichsailboat.com/2014/07/27/catalina-25-review/
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mgarner
Deckhand

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USA
19 Posts
Response Posted - 05/09/2018 :  06:58:51  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That setup looks great. Now I have cleaned up the cabin and deck, I am about to delve into the boats electrical system. Thanks for the post and the info.
Marty Garner
"Midwatch" 1985 C25 4869 TR/FK
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DavidBuoy
Admiral

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USA
707 Posts
Response Posted - 05/10/2018 :  05:03:19  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Holy crap. Please tell me if you ever get bored and want to do my boat. I seriously wish mine looked like that. Good on you.

Captain Rob & Admiral Alyson
"David Buoy"-1985 C25 SK/SR #5053
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sfsmith
Navigator

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USA
120 Posts
Response Posted - 05/10/2018 :  14:44:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
What a great job of wiring. Maybe someday...
Solomon Smith
TANGO 89/WK/TR/#5942
Petoskey, Michigan
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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts
Response Posted - 05/10/2018 :  20:35:22  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Among the great stuff there, from what I've seen, that B&G electronics and software is absolutely amazing for sailing. I looked it over when I was picking out the Simrad version on the same hardware but more oriented toward power. Racer or cruiser, I'd be excited! (I'm not saying it's the best out there--it just amazes me, which at my age is probably not that hard to do.)
Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
Edited by - Stinkpotter on 05/10/2018 20:36:53
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bigelowp
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1736 Posts
Response Posted - 06/22/2019 :  18:43:45  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'm in awe of the outstanding job you have done. Makes my boat look (and I bet most C25's) look so marginal. It looks like your placement of batteries is in the dumpster vs starboard birth. Is access more or less convenient? Great job!
Peter Bigelow
C-25 TR/FK #2092 Limerick
Rowayton, Ct
Port Captain: Rowayton/Norwalk/Darien CT
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sethp001
Mainsheet C-25 Tech Editor

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814 Posts
Response Posted - 06/22/2019 :  19:02:50  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Everything you have done is very impressive.

I would be concerned to have the electrical systems next to the batteries so low in the boat in a bilge area.


Seth
"Outlier" 1987 Catalina 25 SR/SK/Traditional Interior #5541
"Zoo" 1977 Morgan Out Island 30
"Nomad" 1980 Prindle 16
"Lost" 1988 Catalina Capri 14.2 (sold - yay!)
"Marine Tex 1" Unknown Origin POS 8' Fiberglass Dinghy
https://whichsailboat.com/2014/07/27/catalina-25-review/
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AlMo
1st Mate

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USA
55 Posts
Response Posted - 06/28/2019 :  19:52:18  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well my version (too ashamed to show pics) looks like 1978 photos of Bill Gates, kinda hippie looking job. Although, still read the chapter about sailboat wiring in the Dave Gerr masterpiece https://www.amazon.com/Nature-Boats-Insights-Esoterica-Nautically/dp/007024233X, presumably written a few years after the last hippie left the commune. And I read an interesting eBook on becoming A Sea Gypsy, in which the topic of 12V appliances comes up. So many TVs, for example, are really 12V with a 110VAC power supply, which can be removed with the right skills and tools. Most of the amperage draw of such appliances is in the power converter, rather than the appliance itself. I think the whole RV craze has indirectly benefited the modern sailor, who eventually wants to drop anchor somewhere beautiful, drink a cold or cool beverage, and "chill" a few days (originally a hippie term, I do believe). At least if you don't have racing in your blood.

I'd be curious to hear from others who have modified 110V appliances to run at "native" 12V, not that I'd want to spend three days watching TV at anchor, but there are other such appliances, like a bluetooth amp, that I plan to install in my C25 with some existing speakers. Here is the link to the one I purchased: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072Q157FY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, looks like the AC adapter produces 12V at 5A for 60W RMS - nominally 30-40W "lost" in the transformer, so probably a 5A fused circuit will do it.

I'll add my kudos to bjoye for his excellent work on "Frayed Knot", warms the cockles of my ham radio operators heart, and definitely pro grade work!
1978 C25 "X Lives" #1035
SR/SK
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