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T O P I C R E V I E W
RobLes
Posted - 07/08/2019 : 22:10:41 This is my first sailboat a C25, and I have some questions about things the previous owners did.
First one is a rail for something? Can I remove it?
Second one is and attachment point for something? Can I remove it?
Third one is some kind of extension for the shroud chainplate. I just got new correct length shrouds and I shouldn't need this.
Fourth question. Where does this backstay tension line cleat to? I can't find a place. It's the line in the background, not the mainsheet.
The trailer doesn't have bolts holding the supports up. The arrow indicates a friction bolt just pressing against it. I'm going to add some by cutting holes through the struts. This one just collapsed down while trailering it for the first time.
The trailer has this to hold the keel, but it seems too narrow. Also, what can I do about the rusty keel??
I tried putting a new latch on the anchor locker (and filling in the holes), but I can't get this latch to work right. Should I get a new one or try something new?
10 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First)
PZell
Posted - 07/24/2019 : 21:27:54 Ref 3rd item you are correct it is extender for shroud/stay. You may not need it with your new rigging. However, save it as it may come in handy. I used one to replace toggle on forestry which failed due to stress. Paul Zell S/V Sparky SF Bay Ex Tech Ed
sethp001
Posted - 07/16/2019 : 21:24:49 Pics 1 and 3: the aftermarket foresail car track appears to be partially installed. I can see only five bolt/screw heads at the aft end of the track, and many empty holes where through bolts should go.
I would not use those tracks without through-bolting the entire track Or if there's only five holes to fill, that makes removing the track easier if you go that route.
RobLes
Posted - 07/11/2019 : 12:45:09 I'll most likely take them off and fill them in this summer. They leak and would all need to be taken off and resealed anyway.
Peregrine
Posted - 07/11/2019 : 10:56:53 IMO The top three photos look like a badly conceived "twing" rig. Unfortunately unless you are going to do some serious filling and gel-coat repair you are stuck with that track. http://l-36.com/twing.php
RobLes
Posted - 07/10/2019 : 12:09:15 I'd like to work on the keel so it lasts awhile. Only thing is I would have to put the boat on stands and build a cradle for the keel in order to lower it.
Or should I just get what I can with the keel still mounted?
What tool would I need to drill a hole through the keel to mount the zinc? I imagine my electric drill would struggle.
islander
Posted - 07/09/2019 : 10:42:18
quote:I'd wire brush it to remove the loose material and then sand it to remove the rust. I'd leave any paint that is well bonded to the keel. Then promptly spray the bare metal with rust reformer. Fill any deep pits with Marine Tex, sand it, and then apply 4-5 coats of Interlux Interprotect Barrier coat. Attach a sacrificial anode (probably zinc), and finally paint with antifouling. If you plan to sail this boat for 4-5 years before you move on, that should be sufficient. In any case, you should probably replace the keel cable and associated hardware before you launch it.
I agree with this. I think its a losing battle trying to permanently eliminate the rust forever. Think of it as an maintenance thing like bottom painting. A much bigger concern is the lifting hardware and cable. That needs to be replaced every few years. .
Steve Milby
Posted - 07/09/2019 : 09:19:07 Regarding the keel rust, the question is, do you want to do it in a way that will last through the ages, but be somewhat more costly and labor intensive, or do you want to get it done and in the water, knowing it might need more maintenance down the road?
Personally, I would opt for the latter.
I'd wire brush it to remove the loose material and then sand it to remove the rust. I'd leave any paint that is well bonded to the keel. Then promptly spray the bare metal with rust reformer. Fill any deep pits with Marine Tex, sand it, and then apply 4-5 coats of Interlux Interprotect Barrier coat. Attach a sacrificial anode (probably zinc), and finally paint with antifouling. If you plan to sail this boat for 4-5 years before you move on, that should be sufficient. In any case, you should probably replace the keel cable and associated hardware before you launch it.
Steve Milby
Posted - 07/09/2019 : 07:12:47 #1 is an auxiliary genoa track. It's apparent purpose is to enable you to sheet your jib in closer to let the boat to point higher, but I'm unsure whether it will work, for a variety of reasons. The later models of C25 had the genoa track mounted more inboard than the earlier versions, but I think Catalina also moved the attachments for the shrouds inboard, to allow the sail to be trimmed further inboard. My recollection is that, when sailing closehauled, I trimmed my genoa until it touched the shrouds. I don't think that moving the genoa track inboard without also moving the shroud attachments inboard will accomplish the objective, but try it. Experiment with different sizes of jibs. Maybe it will work in some configuration.
There's another consideration. When you trim the genoa closer inboard, the result is that you narrow the slot between the genoa and the mainsail, and that causes the mainsail to be backwinded by the genoa, losing power.
Here's a drawing of the C25 backstay adjuster. The cleat is shown at the left of the drawing. If it's missing from your boat, it should be replaceable.
islander
Posted - 07/09/2019 : 07:01:56 Welcome to the forum.
Pic#1 My guess is the PO added that T-Track to possibly get a little tighter angle on the jib sheet when going to windward or to fit his sail plan. I would leave it and sail the boat and then decide if its handy or not. Pic#2 That's a spin or whisker pole deck chock used for storing a pole on deck' Did the PO give you a pole? Pic#3 That's a toggle and is used to extend a shroud that is a little short. If you have new shrouds then you should't need it. Pic#4 here is a picture of the split backstay. Compare it to yours and see what is or isn't missing.
keats
Posted - 07/09/2019 : 06:17:40 #1 May be a second set of tracks to sheet jib inside lifelines for racing and better pointing. Usually they are added on cabin top. Yours were obviously added and could be removed but that's a lot of holes to fill!
#2 Is a bracket for a spinnaker or whisker pole. Other end might clip to a stanchion or to the bow pulpit. You can remove it or wait and see if it's handy.
#3 May be a temporary extension used to relieve tension on shroud while lowering and raising mast. There is no reason for it to be there when mast is up and shrouds are tensioned.
#4 I can't really make out your setup but my backstay tensioner is a cam cleat on the lower block. Pretty much the same as mainsheet tackle, just a smaller line size. Lower block connects to a tang at the base of the traveler rail on the starboard side.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.