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T O P I C    R E V I E W
slacker Posted - 01/19/2023 : 10:10:09
My Raymarine ST 60 is speaking in tongues so I thought it might be a good time to switch to a fish finder with a depth gauge . Has anyone done this ? Has it worked out and what did you buy ? I am in fresh water
12   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
OLarryR Posted - 01/25/2023 : 09:58:22
The basics are the same:
If you use a glob of a toilet bowl wax ring for mounting in the hull, itís extremely easy to reposition the transducer in-hull, if you do not get a good signal. I happened to get a good signal on first try. The wiring is best routed to the control panel so the wiring is protected by the circuit breaker versus hooking up directly to the battery. As far as the arrangements being different, thatís why I indicated in my second posting, above, that my install was on a 1989 C25 but we also discussed via Email - basically route wiring along the hull under the seats. There are other waysÖ.I recall (again this was on my C25), when I replaced mast wiring, it was easier to lay the wiring adjacent but above the bilge under the floor decking. The accessibility for laying the wiring, you will just have to figure out what works best for you.

Interesting thing, at least to me, was that one time, I did not get a good signal and fishfinder did not work. I had the boat out for blister repairs on the hull bottom and waterproofing with Interprotect, then anti-fouling paint. When the boat was initially put back in the water, I was getting things ready the afternoon before departing and returning to my Marina the next
morning. I noticed that the bottom had loads of small bubbles probably due to the boat having just been returned to the water. By the morning when I was ready to depart, the bubbles were gone and the fishfinder was operating fine again.
slacker Posted - 01/25/2023 : 09:05:17
Yes the layout seems flip flopped but I had to work on the water lines plumbing last season so I have a good idea what to expect. This looks pretty straight forward
Stinkpotter Posted - 01/24/2023 : 11:51:14
Originally posted by islander

Paul, remember that the photos are of a C25 installation and not a 250.
I was gonna say that... Two different layouts. The common element in this case is both have uncored fiberglass hulls--that's about it.
glivs Posted - 01/24/2023 : 06:37:07
I'm still using my ancient fish finder (single frequency) which has served my purposes for years. I'm curious though....I'm sure some of you have installed the newer Chirp capable transducers inside the hull. What has been your experience? Do you still get high resolution images or does attenuation through the hull notably limit the return.
islander Posted - 01/23/2023 : 09:53:37
Paul, remember that the photos are of a C25 installation and not a 250.
slacker Posted - 01/23/2023 : 09:37:38
Thanks again. The pictures really help.
OLarryR Posted - 01/21/2023 : 22:05:42
The wires go along the port side of the hull, behind the head, under the main cabin port side seats and then behind the galley to my original control panel under the main cabin/companionway steps. The wiring circuit is protected by the control panel circuit breaker.

(My control panel had too many loads connected to it by the PO. Some terminals had 2 or 3 separate loads. So I installed another control panel in front of the galley and moved about 5 loads onto the new panel - mostly exterior and interior lighting, etc.)
slacker Posted - 01/21/2023 : 14:37:44
Thanks, So the wire from the transducer runs to the head and screen and there is a cable to the control panel or do you hook it directly to the battery?
OLarryR Posted - 01/20/2023 : 21:58:09
Received your questions and responded!

By the way, in the photo, above, the opening (thru the wood frame) is the beginning of the VBerth area on a 1989 C25. The mounted white discs are the original depth finder and knot meter "thru" hull transducers. When I installed my fish finder transducer smooshed into the toilet bowl wax ring, I just left the existing transducers alone except for cutting and removing the wires to the depth finder transducer. I had my SR Mariner knot meter reconditioned many years ago and it still works. A few years ago, pressure washing the hull bottom, I got too close to the bottom mechanical workings of the knot meter transducer and destroyed it. While SR Mariner is no longer sold, the mfr still provides support of the existing units and so I ordered and have a new knot meter transducer to replace the damaged existing one....whenever I get around to it.

The below photo is taken looking down into the VBerth area. You can see that one of the thru hull transducers has its wire cut - That was the depth finder transducer no longer utilized.
The safety enclosure surrounding these transducers and the seacock is made of plexiglass, assembled with screws but no permanent connection to the hull or VBerth wall except for Velcro fasteners. The enclosure edges along the bottom have a material similar to a camping pad (plastizote) that cushions the enclosure adjacent to the hull. The enclosure can be removed easily if ever needed. I installed it so that the area under the VBerth could be used for storage without concern that dumping things in there would disturb the transducers and/or seacock. But to date, I do not store anything under the VBerth.
(Details of the enclosure build is o my website.)

slacker Posted - 01/20/2023 : 10:18:19
Wow! Thanks for your answer. Where did you locate the transducer ? I have several questions to pester you with so I should probably contact you through your website email. Great website by the way. I'm a newbie to the C250, just 3 seasons so I have lots of questions in general. Thanks
OLarryR Posted - 01/19/2023 : 22:21:05
I installed Hummingbird fish finder many years ago...probably in 2006. I wanted to mount it in the hull since that is is the easiest install method (versus off the transom or through the hull). At the time I bought my Humminbird fish finder. it came with a wide base transducer and the box/instructions indicated it could be used for either transom mounting or in the hull. The instructions indicated that the 1000' ft depth rand would only be about 400' if mounted in the hull but that's not an issue for most users.

There are a number of successful ways to install the transducer inside the hull. The big is ensuring the location you select results in a successful signal and depth readings. The main issues is selecting a solid fiberglass area and that the transducer has contact with the inside of the hull with no air entrapped and/or bubbles that will interfere with the signal. I used a glob from a toilet bowl wax ring (get it from Home Depot or Lowes) to ensure the transducer can shoot its signal successfully through the hull.

My website has details of the install along with photos. Basically, placed a glob of the toilet bowl wax ring onto the inside of the hulll, actually very close to where my original depth transducer is located, then pressed the transducer into the glob while twisting it a bit and pushing it down with moderate pressure. Then with some of the glob that pushed out along the base of the transducer, I then pressed up and over the perimeter of the transducer to ensure the transducer was held firm. Turned on the fish finder and it was working fine ! It is still on the boat and still in the original glob I installed back in 2006.

The great thing about using a toilet bowl ring is that if your fish finder does not read depths from the location you mounted the transducer, you so easily try another location moving the glob and transducer.

My website has install details and addl photos.

Voyager Posted - 01/19/2023 : 12:41:39
Hi Paul, just a suggestion: you might get a lot more responses if you post this question on the general sailing section of the forum, since all C25/C250 owners may offer their views.

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