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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 250 Specific Forum

VHF Connection Mod

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Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Initially Posted - 12/15/2007 : 17:52:26

One of the first changes I made to the Nauti Duck was to remove the external VHF connector located near the mast foot. It was a toe-breaker looking to happen and was also corroded. I prefer the “clam” type of through-deck connector with the actual connection inside. Here is the through-deck clam:

The trouble with this approach is that you need a place inside to make the connection. Fortunately the C250 has a great open space along the ceiling at the mast, where the swiveling lights are. It is hollow up there. For a while it was OK to remove the starboard light to make the connection but I worried that it would enlarge the screw hole if I did it too often. Plus it required a screwdriver. So, I modded the light connection. I drilled for #6 bolts and placed a bolt in each hole, facing down. Then I added a nut to hold the #6 bolts in place thus creating two studs – three if you count me.

I also filed the overall opening a bit where the switch mechanism goes in to make things fit smoother (top of photo). Here is how it all looks (the fat white cable is the VHF):

Now after making the VHF connection I just place the light unit back in its place and secure with two #6 wing nuts. All hardware is stainless of course. Here is the end result:

Looks like I have some tape gunk to clean off the light.

By the way I snaked the VHF over to the starboard side and down to the teak trim that covers the cabin insert (deck/hull joint) and runs all the way back to the galley. The VHF cable is totally covered the entire run.

A quick and easy mod that makes boat setup just a bit easier.

We cannot direct the winds but we can adjust our sails.

Edited by - Nautiduck on 12/15/2007 17:59:27

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 12/15/2007 : 19:06:04

Randy,
I don't understand, do you actually remove your light each time so you can reach an internal VHF connection in the tunnel? Why not make the connection above the deck? How do you get the cable through the clam connector each time when you have to unstep the mast?

I just bought all the stuff yesterday to redo my antenna cable, install the new radio, and re-run the antenna cable up the mast so I'm curious about your approach. My intention is to make the connection on the outside through the clam connection (which I only intend to do once), and then use a male to male connector to break the connection when I unstep the mast.

When you ran your antenna down along the starboard side, how did you get the cable through the right angle at the tunnel? I'm thinking a coat hanger or stiff wire to meet up with the fish tape I'll run from the DC breaker panel area. Fish a pull line down to the starboard side from the starboard reading light, and somehow hook it with the fish tape. How did you do it?

Edited by - on

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 12/15/2007 : 22:03:18

Yes, I make the connection inside the hollow area. I prefer that to an external connection because the external connections are prone to corrosion and represent a hard spot to catch a toe on.

The cable, including its end fitting, fits through the clam, that is the whole point of a clam. It allows a fitting to go through and then cinches on the cable to seal out the weather. What you don't see in the photo is the upper compression component of the clam. The upper component has a hole a little under the diameter of the cable and a cut across the radius. You wrap the rubber compression doodad around the cable and then tighten four bolts which squeeze the doodad to have a waterproof seal. I have the top off for the winter.

I also use a male-to-male connector in the hollow area. We use the same technique but I make the connection inside, away from moisture and other elements.

I used an electricians fish tape to fish from the starboard swivel light towards the fore end of the starboard fore portlight. Took about 15 minutes of probing to get the sweet spot and then the cable popped out below the teak trim. You need an electricians fish tape, a coat hanger will not do it.

Edited by - Nautiduck on 12/15/2007 22:09:11

jerlim
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1484 Posts

Response Posted - 12/19/2007 : 10:38:27

Randy - did you use pre-fab cable w/ the connectors already molded in place, or did you buy raw cable and add the connectors where needed?

Edited by - on

Sloop Smitten
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1181 Posts

Response Posted - 12/19/2007 : 11:47:48

Randy,
I use this same method for making my mast electrical connections. As you state it places the connections out of the weather and harm's way.

Edited by - on

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 12/19/2007 : 13:35:28

I made my own cables using the Centerpin gold connectors from West Marine: [url="http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&keyword=3757747&jspStoreDir=wm51&productId=9648&resultCt=1&catalogId=10001&ddkey=SiteSearch"]Gold Conectors[/url]

Edited by - on

jerlim
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1484 Posts

Response Posted - 12/20/2007 : 09:05:21

Randy - Those connectors look great, and easy to use - definitely the way to go. Meant to ask earlier - what size coax did you use?
Thanks!!

Edited by - jerlim on 12/20/2007 09:06:22

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 12/20/2007 : 10:45:22

35' of RG8X

Edited by - on

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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.