Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
We recently added a jib furler with the furling line running the port side through fairleads. I am unsure of the best way to terminate it at the cockpit and was hoping for ideas.
We have double organizers on both sides and I wanted to add clutches near the cabin top winches. We currently have adjustable lazy jacks and the jib halyard on the port side and only the main halyard on the starboard but a reefing line is also in the works. Not being sure of future plans, can anyone think why I would need more than double clutches on both sides? I'm not wanting to waste funds but I'm also wanting to get what I may need now so I'm ready for future additions. We are still fresh and learning so not sure what we may want to add later. The admiral likes to have as much as possible accessible from the cockpit.
Kyle '86 SR/SK/Dinette #5284 "Anodyne" In the barn where we found her...
i put a cam cleat that i already had on the side of the cabin for the furler. my setup on clutches is (from port to starboard) port:main halyard, reef 1, reef2, strbd: spinn halyard, boom vang, headsail halyard.
Most furler lines terminate on the port side at the cockpit. A smallish horn cleat is installed on the outboard side of the cockpit coaming. A horn cleat is preferred, because the cleat is the only thing that prevents the jib from unfurling, and, if the line pops out of the cleat during a severe storm, the sail will unfurl and be damaged or destroyed. A line that is properly cleated to a horn cleat will not come loose. I coil the furling line and hang it on the lifeline, to let it air dry.
The only damage I have seen to sailboats at my marina during 3 hurricanes and some tropical storms has been to jibs that became unfurled.
Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind" previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22 Past Commodore
I think the more the better. I have 3 clutches on each side and I've considered adding additional ones. As you sail your boat and get to know it, you will inherently find out better ways to do/rig things that work for your needs. I made these charts for when I was installing my mast-base and all the rigging. The only thing different I believe is what is labeled as Boom Downhaul is actually my reefing line. I think I would add two more if possible, a second reef (for the clew) and a cunningham.
Like i said, plan for expansion. But if you're not already doing the work, get it out on the water and figure out what you need and then plan for it.
Captain Rob & Admiral Alyson "David Buoy"-1985 C25 SK/SR #5053
I have the horn cleat mounted on the side also but I added a cam cleat to make things easier when furling. With the horn cleat only you need two hands to haul in the line and if you let go the sail unfurls. Having the cam cleat you are able to use one hand to haul in and the other hand to apply some tension on the sheet to get a nice furl. With the cam cleat you can haul in, lock it in the cleat then reach forward to grab another length of line. It acts as a third hand holding the line for you. When I park the boat at the end of the day I tie the line around the horn cleat then lock it in the cam cleat for double insurance. You see it here with the blue flecked furling line. The plastic horn cleat is on the side about where the Bimini leg meets the coaming.It also makes reefing the sail a snap. Just pull the line and lock it in. No need to let go of the tiller, reach over the side and tie the line to the horn cleat with the line usually under tension.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
My boat has a horn cleat mounted on the side with the furling line running thru small blocks attached to the bottom of 2-3 stanchions leading to the furler. When I am back at the dock and getting ready to leave, I use the furling line after the cleat to hold my tiller steady when not around the boat. Photo shows the side cleat with line past cleat steadying the tiller. The link below the photo is another photo, much larger, that details the cleat.
I wrap and tie my furling line around the port side winch and then wrap and tie a short piece of line around the actual head sail near where the sheets attach. This keeps the head sail closed up tight so wind cannot get into it.
Our furling line runs aft through fairleads attached to the base of the lifeline stanchions, then up through a turning block to the coaming and through a twincam cleat that has an eye. As above, it is easy to work with one hand on the furling line and one hand on the sheet, to keep things snug. When leaving the boat, we secure the furling line to a horn cleat for added protection, and place the tailed coil in the coaming pocket. BUT, THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THE PROCEDURE IS TO FURL UNTIL THE SHEETS ARE WRAPPED TWICE AROUND THE GENOA AND THEN SECURED TO THEIR CLEATS. That should prevent the genoa from getting loose in a gale. (Note Larry's photo for the wrap.)
Our furling line runs aft through fairleads attached to the base of the lifeline stanchions, then up through a turning block to the coaming and through a twincam cleat that has an eye. As above, it is easy to work with one hand on the furling line and one hand on the sheet, to keep things snug. When leaving the boat, we secure the furling line to a horn cleat for added protection, and place the tailed coil in the coaming pocket. BUT, THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THE PROCEDURE IS TO FURL UNTIL THE SHEETS ARE WRAPPED TWICE AROUND THE GENOA AND THEN SECURED TO THEIR CLEATS. That should prevent the genoa from getting loose in a gale. (Note Larry's photo for the wrap.)
Agreed. I forgot to mention that I do that before I tie the line I mentioned earlier around my furler. That gives me 3 layers of protection.
I considered another line around the headsail in addition to cleating the furling line and wrapping the sheets. I always keep my sheets snug when furling and wrap at least 3 times... I've been known to go 4. Last month we had 45mph sustained winds for a day with a 70mph gust for several minutes. The headsail on the boat next to us unfurled during the storm and he lost his headsail, port side upper shroud and, from witness accounts, almost lost his mast as it was moving at the step quite a bit. They also claim they could almost touch the mast from the dock as it heeled in the slip. So, I must have done something right to keep everything intact.
Kyle '86 SR/SK/Dinette #5284 "Anodyne" In the barn where we found her...
always put a tie on it when you leave for the day. my harken furler also includes a small hole in the drum for a pin that will keep the drum from turning.
I also use 2 bungee cords, placed as far above and below where the furling line wraps around the head sail that I can reach. I have seen at least 2 sailboats in my marina that have suffered head sail damage from their sails partially unraveling...At least with one sailboat, it appears the wind just got under a section of the sail and that flap must have gotten larger as time passed, then shred the sail.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.