Association Forum - Loaded on Trailer

Assn Members Area · Join

Home.

Association Forum

Ships Store

Cruising

Racing

Technical Tips

Photo Gallery - New

Boat Search - Updated

Manuals & Brochures

Swap Meet

Links

Officer Flag Line & Staff

Bylaws & Constitution

Members Area

Join the Association

Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.

Association Forum

Username:	Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

All Forums

Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 250 Specific Forum

Loaded on Trailer

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Author

Topic

welshoff
Captain

Member Avatar

USA
253 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/10/2006 : 12:13:26

I had to load boat on trailer for first time last weekend for repairs to mast head. Just a couple pictures - I think it makes a nice road going package. I was able to use tounge extender at my launch/marina to put boat on trailer (no rope launch needed). This was nice - I was sweating this part of the process.

Note: my launch angle is about 15 degrees. This would be a minimum angle for me to retreive boat with tounge extender only.

Wil Elshoff
"Arcturus"
2004 - C250 WK #732

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

Members Avatar

Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 03/10/2006 : 12:43:17

The wing is a beautiful boat

Edited by - on

kevinmac
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
732 Posts

Response Posted - 03/10/2006 : 14:59:36

Hey Chris,

Nice looking boat!

Did you happen to notice how far into the water you had to back the trailer? Did the water touch the hitch ball? I am trying to figure out, for later, at different ramp angles, how far into the water the trailer needs to be to be deep enough to recover the boat...

If you had it all the way in (which I assume you did, based on your message), why did you say that this was the shallowest ramp that you would want to use? How did you know that it was barely good enough?

Sorry, probably dumb questions, but I, like you, have been sweating what recovering my boat is going to be like. The only ramps near me are shallower than yours (as I remember seeing yours), and so I need to use the rope launch method. Then I am faced with how much rope I need to let out to be "enough". I can do the math based on my ramp angle, if I can figure out how deep the rear bunks on the trailer need to be below the surface of the water...

Thanks,

Edited by - on

welshoff
Captain

Members Avatar

USA
253 Posts

Response Posted - 03/10/2006 : 16:02:09

Kevin,
I had the rear wheels of the truck just touching the water. I never had the rear brake drums or wheels in the salt water - just the rubber tires. I was avoiding this at all costs - don't need salt water in the rear brakes on the truck! The FRONT set of pads on the trailer were just touching the surface of the water (maybe halfway in). This was with tounge extender in place. I still had to crank pretty hard to get it fairly close to the front guides on trailer. (Note: I had a driver back the trailer into the water and I floated the boat onto the trailer.) Then I left the boat motor in forward gear and walked to the bow, climbed onto the trailer ladder and cranked on the winch. Then went back and shut down the motor (I did this to keep the boat pushing onto the trailer while cranking on winch - it was only at an idle - could/should have gave it a little more throttle to help push boat onto trailer while cranking on winch?) Once out of the water, boat was a couple of inches back from the front guides on trailer. Mine was setting good on all six pads so I thought this was close enough for me in, regards to the boat being forward enough on the trailer. Not sure if any advantage to having boat "land" into the front guides? When I bought the boat, it was pulled all the way from Montana to Tacoma with it a couple inches back from the front guides.

If the ramp was any flater (less than 15 degrees). I don't think the trailer would have been deep enough to winch the boat on to the trailer (while keeping the truck out of the water). I keep a two foot level and measuring tape with me in the truck and will use to check the angle of ramp prior to launch/retrieve (level the "level" on ramp and measure down to ramp - need just over 6-1/2" rise). This way I'll know in advance if the trailer tounge extender will work.

I am in process of adding a launch wheel on the trailer. This I think will be needed and I want to have as a back up method should the ramps not be steep enough.

Getting off the trailer was easier. Just backed trailer to water (w/tounge extension), unhooked winch strap and saftey chain to bow eye, I helmed the boat, had driver back into water, just when rear wheels were nearing the water, I had the driver hit the brakes hard. The boat slid right off trailer and into water, right when rear wheels of truck touched the water. No problems.

Edited by - on

Tom Potter
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
1913 Posts

Response Posted - 03/10/2006 : 16:43:34

Wil,
Nice looking rig you have there, how did the furler supports work for you?

Edited by - Tom Potter on 03/10/2006 16:44:50

welshoff
Captain

Members Avatar

USA
253 Posts

Response Posted - 03/10/2006 : 17:54:12

Tom,
Furler supports worked great - drop on mast, lay in furler, bungee cord to mast - couldn't be simpler. Thanks to everyone who provided the great ideas for the supports.

I used 3" PVC cut in half (on table saw). 4 each are about 1"-6" and one is overlapped by about 20" at the furler drum (can't remember lenght of PVC used - got it off one of the forum posts - I think it was about 36" overall?). Lined all of them with drawer type "rubber" and spray adhesive (from Home Depot). I separated the two pieces of PVC with 2"x2" ceder.

Edited by - on

WindDancer
1st Mate

Members Avatar

USA
34 Posts

Response Posted - 03/12/2006 : 00:38:35

Wil,

Could you please explan again how you made your furler supports. I understand the cutting of the 3" PVC. What is drawer type rubber and what is the 2X2 ceder used for? Any clearer photos, more detail....

By the way nice boat.

Thanks,
Bruce
Wind Dancer
Clearlake Calif.

Edited by - on

welshoff
Captain

Members Avatar

USA
253 Posts

Response Posted - 03/13/2006 : 12:14:39

Bruce,
I can post some photos if you need more. See this link for more information [url="http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=9049&SearchTerms=furler,support"]Furler Support[/url]. I basically copied/borrowed this idea for my support from other members. I used Tom's approach when I made mine.

The wood is used to space the two PVC pieces so the furler will clear the steaming light and lay flat on top of the mast. Basically screw the two pieces of PVC to the wood spacer. You can see the advantage to the wood spacer between the two halfs of the PVC.

The rubber material is a drawer liner I got from Home Depot and used spray adheasive to attach. It provides protection from the screws and provides a non slip surface when setting the support on the mast.

Edited by - on

Topic

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Jump To:

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.