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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
 General Sailing Forum
 Outboard Security
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Mark Rials
1st Mate

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USA
39 Posts

Initially Posted - 10/07/2001 :  20:12:53  Show Profile
[font=Arial]What methods do you all use to lock
your outboards to the brackets? I used a cylinder
that fit over one of the motor bracket clamp screws
but required a special lock. While motoring with
the mount all the way down it scoops water onto th

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Doug
Captain

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USA
457 Posts

Response Posted - 10/07/2001 :  21:28:53  Show Profile
I use a vinyl coated cable with a padle lock. I Run the cable through the mount and the traveler bar with the lock at the top. Secures the motor and works as a safety leash in case there's some major failure of the mount or board that might drop the motor

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John G-
Admiral

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793 Posts

Response Posted - 10/07/2001 :  21:43:57  Show Profile  Visit John G-'s Homepage
<font face='Comic Sans MS'><font color=blue>Mark,
I use a padlock between the two hold down screws on my Sailmaster 8. The screw downs have plastic swivel handles with holes in the end. When pointed to the center the holes in the handles are close enough

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Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 10/08/2001 :  08:42:18  Show Profile  Visit Champipple's Homepage
Mark,

We do not lock our outboard at all. We are located at Whiskey Island Marina in Cleveland, slip A-31. The guard at the gate should be asleep so getting in is not a problem.

If anyone feels like stealing it, be careful. Please do not ruptu

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cathluk
Admiral

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USA
513 Posts

Response Posted - 10/08/2001 :  10:59:55  Show Profile
We don't lock ours either. Of course from April - October one of hte seasonal marina workers 43' Irwin is right across the dock from us and an unofficial liveaboard is 2 boats down year-round. I don't believe I"ve seen anyone with a locked outboard in o

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Bill Holcomb
Admiral

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USA
769 Posts

Response Posted - 10/08/2001 :  11:02:38  Show Profile
Hi Mark,

My Mariner has a couple of counter sunk holes in the mounting bracket on the engine that allow for a #10 machine screw. So, after installing the engine, I drilled an appropriate sized hole through the wooden "plate" on the OB bracket and bolt

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Steve
1st Mate

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USA
87 Posts

Response Posted - 10/08/2001 :  16:59:39  Show Profile
Hi Mark,

I used on of the lock bars on my Nissan 8HP. The lock did rust, and with a crowbar if took about 5 seconds to remove the whole thing. Bill's suggestion is a good one. Bolting the motor to the bracket makes it more difficult for the thief, an

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deastburn
Captain

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USA
334 Posts

Response Posted - 10/08/2001 :  21:16:02  Show Profile
I have solved the problem by taking (unfair?) advantage of the free enterprise system. I bought an ABUS brass padlock for my motor four seasons ago. Yes, it rusts and freezes (even though the packaging says it won't). At the end of the season, I hacksaw i

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Douglas
Master Marine Consultant

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1595 Posts

Response Posted - 10/08/2001 :  21:25:38  Show Profile  Visit Douglas's Homepage
All I need to do to steal your outboard is snap of the aluminum lock ear with a crecent wrench. Or spray the barrel lock with any freon type propelant from a can and smak the lock with a ball peen hamer. The bar locks are easy to beat. So if you don't loc

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n/a
deleted

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163 Posts

Response Posted - 10/09/2001 :  08:59:29  Show Profile
I'm on a swing mooring, and a properly-equipped thief could take my engine regardless of how it's secured. To deter the less-determined ones I use two bolts thrugh the engine mount and bracket and peen over the ends. I also use a padlock on the screw hand

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Ed Monague
1st Mate

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USA
34 Posts

Response Posted - 10/09/2001 :  17:00:01  Show Profile
Even though, as Douglas so rightly points out, no outboard is truly safe regardless of the locking system, you should do all that it reasonably possible to protect your investment. The first question your insurance adjuster will ask is "was it locked?"

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Bristle
Admiral

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USA
834 Posts

Response Posted - 10/11/2001 :  21:38:07  Show Profile
Charles & Ed: When you smash the ends of the bolts, how do you remove the engine at the end of the season (or for repairs)?

Dave--about to put a new half-million-dollar Honda on the bracket

Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 SR-FK in CT

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Ed Monague
1st Mate

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USA
34 Posts

Response Posted - 10/12/2001 :  01:02:40  Show Profile
Dave, My 2001 Yamaha 9.9, electric start is the perfect motor and is guranteed to never need to come off. <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> Actually, all you need is to back the nut off until it either over rides the mushroom or shears t

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n/a
deleted

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163 Posts

Response Posted - 10/12/2001 :  08:39:35  Show Profile
Dave, what Ed said. The nut will either cut its way off or shear the bolt. You need new bolts every year, but it's a small cost.


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jm
Captain

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Canada
290 Posts

Response Posted - 10/12/2001 :  13:40:07  Show Profile
Here's a solution - modify the O/B engine cover by removing the
Honda decals/stickers, and replacing them with some old Chrysler decals. (pn C145892L/R) Who in their right (or wrong) mind would want to steal an old Chrysler OB ? Mr.Smithonian ?

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 10/26/2001 :  19:00:08  Show Profile
There are a number of "tamperproof" fasteners available that require a special tool to remove them. Check the net. They're also available in stainless.
Remember, thieves are usally lazy and want to grab & run quickly. Tamperproof fasteners will easily

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