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I'm in the middle of refurbishing my 26 year old ez loader trailer and have run into a problem replacing the large u bolts. In particular there are 4 bolts sized 3 x 11 1/4. I haven't been able to find anything even close on any of the trailer part websites. I talked to the parts person at EZ loader and she said they would have to custom manufactured.
The bolts that I have are about 50% covered with surface rust but aren't pitted. Seems like a lot of bother to get them custom made but I'm trying to do this right so I won't have to do it again.
Any idea where I might be able to get u bolts like this or how I should treat the ones I have so they can be reused?
How should I be treating the rust that forms on the inside of the box tubing that the trailer is constructed from? At this point the tubing seems very sound with no pitting but a light coating of rust inside and in a few places on the outside where the paint has worn away.
Ray,<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">...large u bolts. In particular there are 4 bolts sized 3 x 11 1/4. I haven't been able to find anything even close on any of the trailer part websites. ... Any idea where I might be able to get u bolts like this...?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">I'd say what you might do depends on that the U-bolts do. Are they holding on anything important, like undercarriage parts? Would you be real unhappy if one of them broke? As for replacements, I assume you've checked with [url="http://www.championtrailers.com"]Champion Trailers[/url]. If the U-bolts are square, not truly 'U' shaped, you might consider faking it with [url="http://www.championtrailers.com/spring%20accessories.htm#shackle_links"]Shackle Links[/url]. I did this on my Shoreline trailer (EZ Loader clone). That way you're shopping for straight bolts, which are a whole lot easier to find (and afford).
What about having them fabricated to your requirments, or fabracating them yourself.
As a part time metal-man /sculpture, I think you could find the right diameter rod measure the distance you need from center to center of the holes, and if you have access to a vise, and an oxygen/acetylene torch you can heat the rod and bend them as you need them. Of course you'll have to have them threaded but that should'nt be to hard to have done either. Or just go to a Iron Works shop and they could knock it out in short order and I doubt it would cost that much.
Right you are Leon. These are some of the main bolts holding on the undercarriage and a failure would make for a really bad day. Great idea about the shackle links. I hadn't thought about that.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">The bolts that I have are about 50% covered with surface rust but aren't pitted.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Surface rust is generally not a defect and will not detract from the strength at all. If there is no pitting, then the original strength is still there. I would sand-blast them and use them again. My 2 cents. Dan
I would pay particular attention to the front end of the trailer too. Recently I saw a small work trailer break just where the tongue connector was welded to the trailer ... while on a highway! Trailer flipped across the road, luckily towards the curb, that did not make his day. No-one was hurt and all vehicles avoided it. The tounge was still on the hitch of the truck when he pulled over to retieve everything.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.