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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

'86 C25 Keel Clunk

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weluvlife
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166 Posts

Initially Posted - 10/09/2005 : 13:33:25

Hello,

My boat is suffering from the "keel clunk" syndrome.
I do not have a clear picture in my mind of what the
mechanics look like with regards to the keel support.
Are there images that I can be directed to? I notice that
a Keel Hanger CAsting Kit is available? Is this usually
necessary and does it help with the Keel clunking?
How does the Keel Centering Spacer Kit differ from "Shims" ?
Can the shims be replaced while the boat is still on the trailer?
I am a long way from any boat yard, and would like to do
anything I could myself. Is this wise or possible?

The clunk is only heard when sailing, usually after a tack when the boat starts heeling a bit.

Mark Eichman
Lake Don Pedro,CA
www.lakedonpedrosailingclub.org
'86 c25 TR, SK

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weluvlife
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166 Posts

Response Posted - 10/09/2005 : 13:54:47

I just came acrossed this "fix" . It looks great to me. Have any of you tried this?

http://www.catalina25-250.org/tech/tech25/sowind2.html

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GeorgeB
1st Mate

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90 Posts

Response Posted - 10/09/2005 : 14:19:04

Yes,

I purchased a Kit from Catalina, that had the disks and epoxy, everthing you need. Installation of the spacers was only part of the solution however. My Keel clunk had a lot to do with play between the iron keel and the bronze Keel pin. Excess slop contributed to a lot of the clunking. I had the keel dropped and sent to a machine shop that fitted a bronze bushing in the keel.

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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 10/09/2005 : 14:40:05

Mark E,

Here's a link to a previous thread that includes some discussion of swing keel clunk: "[url="http://www.catalina25-250.org/forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=6868"]Keel Trunk Flex[/url]".

And here's another link to a previous long thread that might give you some helpful insight into the swing keel/trunk issues that can arise: "[url="http://www.catalina25-250.org/forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=6921"]Keel trunk "flex" continued[/url]".

Happy reading!

-- Leon Sisson

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weluvlife
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166 Posts

Response Posted - 10/09/2005 : 14:56:49

Ok, great. I'll go to those links.

Thank you

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weluvlife
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166 Posts

Response Posted - 10/26/2005 : 22:48:34

A tip that may be quite obvious for most, but it caught my attention just the same:

When using the "all-thread" technique to lower the keel for the hanger and pin replacement, be very careful !

While I was slowly running the 3/8" nuts down the all-thread, I noticed that a couple of the all-thread rod lengths were turning with the nut. I didn't catch it at first. I went back and checked that all were all the way up and seated. From this point on, I attached a pair of vice-grips to the lower end of the rod.

Obvious I know, but worth mentioning due to the risk of a 1500 pound hunk of metal falling!

Oh, yes, I did have wood support right below the keel, so it wouldn't have gone too far. But, we don't want this much weight traveling anywhere unexpectedly :)

Hope I help someone. This group has helped me a lot over the years.

Take care

Edited by - on

sweetcraft
Admiral

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USA
816 Posts

Response Posted - 10/27/2005 : 01:01:40

Just reread all the info listed and there wasn't any mention of using carpet. I started using carpet years ago and have checked the bolts and pin yearly especially the last two years being made aware of the maintenance by the forum. Got the carpet idea from the 22's in Mainsheet. I use heavy carpet attached with construction adhisive and it seems to spread the load over the more area than the pads. The carpet doesn't show when the keel is all the way down. Anyone else using carpet?

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weluvlife
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166 Posts

Response Posted - 10/27/2005 : 22:14:13

Hello sweetcraft,

What was the size of the carpet section you used?

How thick was the carpet? Shag? Berber? Indoor/Outdoor?
One piece on each side of the keel? What brand and model of
construction adhesive?

You have me curious now.

By the way, by looking at impressions left on the keel by the hangers, I was able to draw a line from just below the pivot hole to the front radius of the keel, representing the line of demarcation between the part of the keel in and out of the well.

I needed this, so as to be able to place the shims/carpet in the correct place.

If do not remove your hangers or can't see this impression I spoke of, I made a measurement that may help:

89.5" from the bottom and trailing edge of the keel, to the upper leading edge radius. Draw a line from this tangent back towards the pivot point, to a point about 5/8" just below.

Take care,

Edited by - on

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.