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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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winter service Nissan/Tohatsu????

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tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts

Initially Posted - 11/16/2005 : 15:29:03

Well, how's it going N/T owners, any problems winterizing your outboard? I just finished and everything was pretty ordinary;
1 )...drain and refill lower unit.
2 )...fresh water flush
3 )...fog the engine
4 )...drain carburetor, fuel lines, fuel filter
5 )...remove prop and clean and grease shaft, use new cotter
6 ) ...wipe down the motor with an oily rag ?

Draining the carb and fuel lines involved disconnecting the several fuel hoses and blowing the gas out of them. I detest getting gas in my mouth so I saved this task till last. Ran out and bought a turkey baster. I didn't see a carb drain plug so assumed the hose leading to it would serve as a drain.
I think I covered all the bases...what say ya'll ?

Val on the hard DAGNABIT

Val Bisagni]

Edited by - on

osmepneo
Past Commodore

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USA
1420 Posts

Response Posted - 11/16/2005 : 16:08:37

Val, mine is still on transom so I haven't done anything. Last year I stored in a heated garage and that was all I did. In the spring it ran fine, starting on the first pull.

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bbriner
Captain

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349 Posts

Response Posted - 11/16/2005 : 19:41:26

Still using it! I was out last Sunday and winds were light, so I had to motor in from about 4nm out (I didn't want to spend the night out on the Bay!). I've been thinking that I may have it serviced professionally (again). I had it serviced last summer ... had them do a complete annual maintenance since it came with the boat and I didn't know if the PO had taken very good care of it. I was prompted by that and (a) last year the warning light had come on but the oil pressure was fine (at least oil was full and not leaking) and (b) several times the motor had sputtered and died under higher rpm. I don't motor that often but it did bother me. I sure didn't want it to conk out on me some time when I really needed it. After having it serviced the light was off and it is fine under high rpm (fuel filter) but it came on again about a month later. Don't know why... Oil was full and there were no leaks. 3 months have gone by and its still on. It runs great and starts on the first pull. I leave the engine on and let the fuel run out at the end of each day of use and flush with freshwater.

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Ben - FL
Admiral

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880 Posts

Response Posted - 11/16/2005 : 23:04:09

I do not know what you mean by "fog the engine."
I always disconnect the fuel line from the engine every time I run it so it burns off the fuel in the float bowl.

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tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts

Response Posted - 11/17/2005 : 09:05:19

Fogging involves pulling your plugs ( cold engine only) and spraying storing oil(fogging oil)into each cylinder and turning the engin over several times(remember to pull the emergency cord as a precaution). On my old two stroke it was possible to spray the oil into the air silencer while burning off the last of the gas in the carburetor. I haven't found the place to do that on the Nissan yet.
The objective is to coat the innards of the motor with storing oil for the long winter layup to avoid rusting.

I had a problem with the seal on the bonnet covering the motor. Just noticed it this morning. It's a rubber seal around the lower edge of the bonnet/cowl. Seems to have been attached with rubber cement which for some reason let go. Have any of you had a similar problem and if so what method to cure have you used? I was thinking of going to Home Depot today for some rubber cement.

I found that just running the engine dry several times wasn't enough to get the remaining fuel from the lines. I actually had to separate the various hoses and blow through them to get the fuel out. I had used Stabil in the last tank of gas to avoid any chance of fouling the tank and fuel lines and carb, but didn't want to take any chances with a new baby. EH !

I thought it peculiar that the carburetor didn't have a drain plug though the manual mentions draining the carb.

Happened to mention gasohol problems to several of the local shops and you had to see the eyes roll up in their heads at the mention of it. Seems that a few of the shop formen/owners took the initiative to test fuel samples to determine the alcohol content of gasohol ( 10%)because they were having such problems with motors. It turned out that 30 to 40 % in some tests was recorded. One fellow showed me the aluminum inner parts of carbs totally erroded by alcohol, not just the jets. Looked like the aluminum was etched with acid. Unbelievable !!!

And I wondered why my trusty old Johnson gave up the ghost. I may switch to Coleman gas given the economy of the Nissan

Val on the hard DAGNABIT

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tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts

Response Posted - 11/18/2005 : 08:58:41

Bill/Windancer,

That light being on concerns me. Hopefully it is as simple a matter as a faulty pressure sending unit. If that's not the case I'd not use the motor until a dealer checked the it. Having oil in the sump doesn't guarantee that the bearings and valves are getting the oil under pressure that they require for them to perform as designed.

Val on the hard DAGNABIT # 3936

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tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts

Response Posted - 11/20/2005 : 10:37:13

Bill,

I checked the wiring diagrams for the Nissan/Tohatsu and the sending unit for the motor goes to a unit labeled CD. Your symptoms may generate within that unit. The leg that the pilot light is on has a red/white wire from the CD to the light with a conection that seems to be a snap together joint and a light green coming from the light to ground. Given your description of events I don't think your problem is in that circuit. But I'd check all connections. The pressure sending switch is a brown/white wire going from ground on one end of the switch to the CD unit on the other leg of that circuit.

Suspect here is the sending unit itself. Check all connections.

Val on the ground DAGNABIT

Edited by - on

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