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A week of teak...

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pmcarman
1st Mate

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USA
30 Posts

Initially Posted - 11/18/2005 : 17:20:53

Greetings all! With the Thanksgiving holiday coming up, getting ready to do as much teak work on the boat as possible. Looking to leave as little on the boat as possible (figure it'll be easier and cleaner to work in the garage).

Aside from some Cetol, I've heard acetone recommended - and variations on the sand/coat theme, including gloss or not. As part of getting ready this wknd, any last minute suggestions from the group to make the process as easy as possible?

As always, your help is much appreciated! Thanks!

Paul MacGyver Carman
'86 FK/SR #5195 "Althea"
Eau Gallie, FL

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 11/18/2005 : 17:32:55

Please walk the docks and find what you want your boat to look like and ask the owner of that boat what is on his teak. I am and will always be an oil person, the other coatings do not look natural enough to me. After I treat my teak I want pretty wood not a pretty shine on top of wood.

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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3321 Posts

Response Posted - 11/18/2005 : 18:31:37

Paul, I used to use teak oil but found that in the Texas heat & humidity that it mildewed rapidly (in weeks, not months). I now use Cetol - 3 coats of regular or Light and then 2 coats of gloss. It lasts a good year or more, and what's so important is that it can easily be touched up.
Derek

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Steve Siefken
1st Mate

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USA
81 Posts

Response Posted - 11/18/2005 : 22:24:03

Derek,

You mentioned that you use gloss on top of Cetol. I am thinking of switching to Cetol this year, but was not sure what to do about the gloss.

When you mentioned that you touch it up, do you mean the gloss, Cetol or both?
If it is Cetol, do you sand down everything and then apply Cetol or do you simply reapply Cetol without sanding?

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 11/18/2005 : 22:36:02

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by fhopper@mac.com
 ...After I treat my teak I want pretty wood not a pretty shine on top of wood.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I also prefer a more subdued finish for my teak...That's why I use Cetol satin.

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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3321 Posts

Response Posted - 11/18/2005 : 23:22:51

Paul - the reason I put gloss on top of the regular finish is to protect the regular finish from being rubbed off by lines etc.
To touch up you do a very light sanding and then reapply the regular cetol with a coat of gloss on top.
One "disadvantage" of Cetol, is that when it does start to deteriorate it does so very quickly, so you need to be prompt in repair!
Derek

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pmcarman
1st Mate

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USA
30 Posts

Response Posted - 11/23/2005 : 11:21:43

Update (11/23/05) - pulled off the handrails, the eyebrow pieces, the two boards above the keel bolts, and the cockpit trim, and have sanded them all by hand. Note to self - were I to do this a lot, power sander the way to go. That said, there's a personal bit of satisfaction to using elbow grease. :) Bought new companionway hatch boards, and sizing them up today. Light grit on all of it later today, then the first coat of Cetol Marine on all of it. Will keep you posted on how it looks!

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Steve Siefken
1st Mate

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USA
81 Posts

Response Posted - 11/23/2005 : 21:10:38

I have an update too. I removed the tiller and brought it home. I sanded it and put 3 coats of Cetol Light on. Although it is darker than I thought it would be I am pleased.

When I was cleaning up, I could see why this has a good reputation. It has an almost "waxy" feel to it.

Thanks,

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 11/23/2005 : 23:53:25

I did some oiling today, I used Old English lemon oil on my interior pieces.

There are more pictures here.
[url="http://homepage.mac.com/fhopper/PhotoAlbum114.html"]Interior oiling day[/url]

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pmcarman
1st Mate

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USA
30 Posts

Response Posted - 11/24/2005 : 16:35:35

First coat of Cetol on, and yowza, what a difference some sanding and TLC makes <grin!>. Tomorrow another coat and electronics day (depth finder and GPS - looking to set up mount brackets on the starboard side - also have to figure out what to do with the soon to be removed knotmeter hole).

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IndyJim
Navigator

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USA
130 Posts

Response Posted - 11/28/2005 : 19:19:12

Greetings C-25 Skippers and crew! Happy Holidays from a guy who brushes off the snow and crawls under the tarp for his winter "fix". I've removed all the exterior teak ie. hand rails, hatch slides, eye brows and hatch boards, and I'm preparing to do the Cetol thing. They've all been sanded are ready for the first coat. My question is... after applying 4-5 coats of cetol, what type of "gloss" did you put on for a protective finish? Is it a polyurethane "clear coat"? I'm not there yet but I'd sure like to know what's the best stuff to use.
I'm excited about more sailing time and less teak oil time next season. Thanks for any imput on the "gloss" thing.

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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3321 Posts

Response Posted - 11/28/2005 : 19:57:04

Jim - I used the cetol gloss, but I wonder if a couple of coats of polyurethane would work better.
Derek

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 11/28/2005 : 20:06:16

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by IndyJim
 My question is...after applying 4-5 coats of Cetol, what type of "gloss" did you put on for a protective finish?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Since Cetol is the protective finish, you don't need (or want) to put anything on it. If you want to put a glossy overcoat on your Cetol covered brightwork, then you will need to use Cetol Marine Gloss.

Personally, I like the more subdued satin look of the regular Cetol Marine.

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 11/28/2005 : 20:14:33

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Derek Crawford
 Jim - I used the cetol gloss, but I wonder if a couple of coats of polyurethane would work better.
Derek
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Derek,

The polyurethane might not stick to the Cetol, but even if it did, when it came time to overcoat with Cetol, the polyurethane would have to be removed because Cetol can only be used over bare wood or Cetol itself.

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pmcarman
1st Mate

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USA
30 Posts

Response Posted - 11/29/2005 : 17:16:24

Got the wood back on the boat, and it looks great! That said, were I to do it again, there were a few "note to self" areas that I'd take into consideration:

1) Label the hand rails - I meant to do it, but when I forgot, I figured - what are the chances the bends will be *exactly* the same? Surely I'll be able to tell which is which. Hrmf - label...

2) When I went to buy sealant from my friends at West Marine, they only had the white marine caulking - originally clear was used under the handrails as near as I could tell. In retrospect, even if not "the right" thing to use, I suspect the clear would have looked a little better post attachment.

3) Along those lines, if you want a small bead of caulk, you'll need something long enough to poke open the caulk container. Making a larger bead so that the nail I had would fit made for much more of a mess than my retentive mind would have preferred.

All that said, for a first time effort I'll give myself a B - the refinishing using Cetol Marine and Cetol gloss looks really nice, esp. the two wood planks over the cabin bilge area. Handrails look a million times better, as do the coaming rings, and replacing the cracked companion way wood was certainly the way to go. Still more to do, but so far so good!

Thanks to all for the advice and guidance!

Edited by - on

John P
Captain

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USA
324 Posts

Response Posted - 11/30/2005 : 07:57:13

It's funny, I scraped a P and S on the bottom of the handrails, next to a screw hole. I now have them ready to reinstall (will not be done until spring, or another long warm spell), however, in all the sanding, refinishing, etc. I can not find any trace of a marking! Damn! Note to Self: Next time Just mark one, but do it noticably!

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Lightnup
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1016 Posts

Response Posted - 11/30/2005 : 08:49:02

Jeez...I'm exhausted just reading all this. Must be time for a nap.

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pmcarman
1st Mate

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USA
30 Posts

Response Posted - 12/13/2005 : 11:47:37

Greetings all - teak is progressing well! For the interior, thanks to those who suggested Murphy's Oil Soap and Old English - my wife did the interior with the Old English and *wow* what a difference! I'll be wrapping up the exterior teak with Cetol/gloss at the end of the month (had a friend make new eyebrow pieces, and they look incredible), and then it's off to tackle electronics!

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John P
Captain

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USA
324 Posts

Response Posted - 12/13/2005 : 12:40:07

Paul, when she did the interior, did she:
1. remove the pieces?
2. sand with fine prior to oil?
3. What did she use for applying the oil?
4. How many coats of oil?

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 12/13/2005 : 13:33:06

Make sure you use Old English Lemon oil and not the scratch remover, it is a very dark stain.

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pmcarman
1st Mate

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USA
30 Posts

Response Posted - 12/13/2005 : 14:01:37

John,

I'd been working on the exterior teak prior to our naming ceremony, and my wife only had time that morning to work on the interior so steps were pretty short:

1. remove the pieces? Nope - kept everything where it was.
2. sand with fine prior to oil? Nope - no sanding.
3. What did she use for applying the oil? Used new white small hand towels from WalMart, and used new ones as she went.
4. How many coats of oil? All told, I think between 1-3 coats depending on where it was. The stairs, for example, were quite thirsty, while the drawers under the sink near the head only took a coat or two.

The difference was mighty stunning. At some point, I may pull out pieces and focus on them more, but one of the group members made the point that "sometimes it's easy to make the process of caring for wood more complicated than it needs to be" - in this case, wood looks better than it probably has in years!

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John P
Captain

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USA
324 Posts

Response Posted - 12/13/2005 : 15:31:20

Thanks Paul.

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javadano
Deckhand

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USA
15 Posts

Response Posted - 12/20/2005 : 12:37:53

Hey All,
I too am one that crawls under the tarp for my winter fixes. About six weeks ago, I pulled all my teak off her for a very much needed refinishing. I opted for the power sander and it still was quite a bit of work. I appreciate all the tips about the Cetol Marine. Being a newby to all of this, I wasn't sure what would be the best finish. Even under the tarps, Michigan winters are harsh to the teak.

Dan Foster
'80 C-25
Michigan

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djn
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1561 Posts

Response Posted - 12/20/2005 : 13:34:24

Hi Dan, I am also in Michigan. I find it hard to go out to the boat yard to work on the outside of the boat. I can plug in a space heater when working inside. Where in MI do you sail out of? Cheers.

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