Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I know this topic has come up a thousand times before.
Which bottom paint do you prefer? We have just purchased a new boat and we don't know what is on the bottom. Compatibility is a concern for this first bottom job. We are in Florida, so near tropical conditions, we keep the boat in the water and fouling is a major concern.
I like the idea of a Copolymer Ablative to keep the build up of paint to a minimum, but also like the maximum protection and perhaps better adhesion of a modified epoxy since we keep the boat in the water?
Sure would appreciate any thoughts.
Chris Hunsicker Panama City FL Moonglade 80 C25 #2126 sr/now wk
I've used Hydrocoat for years. Inland lakes are vastly different than your area, though. Ask others in your area (marinas, boatyards) what they use. If Hydrocoat is one of the good choices, nothing is easier to work with or more environmentally friendly.
Your proximity to many estuary water conservation areas and low salinity of those waters might make Hydrocoat a good choice. The locals will be able to advise you better.
Interlux CSC Micron Extra. A cheaper alternative (single season) Interlux Fiberglass Bottomkote ACT.
Whatever you get, be sure to purchase an appropriate brushing thinner or solvent... every bottom paint I've used will rapidly 'skin up' and thicken in the pot/on the brush. Periodic thinning keeps it going on smoothly. Be sure to wear gloves and have plenty of fresh air flow too.
I use ACT bottom coat the realy cheap stuff. I add one spice container of papreka stired in realy well. Im in cooler water but I get 3 years out of it.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Douglas</i> <br />I use ACT bottom coat the realy cheap stuff. I add one spice container of <font color="red">papreka</font id="red"> stired in realy well. Im in cooler water but I get 3 years out of it.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Hi Doug,
Didn't you mean to say <font color="red">cayenne pepper</font id="red">?
"Do mean thin the paint in the roller tray as I go?"
Most bottom paints are really heavy... you'll need to spend quite a bit of time stirring, mixing etc. to get all the solids into suspension. Plan on spending 15 minutes (or more) and using two containers with some of the special solvent to do this.
If you're using a roller tray, you'll be only pouring out a small amount at a time. Every time you fill the tray you'll be re-stirring the can and probably adding a little solvent as it thickens up.
All the above will become self-evident when you get started!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Don B</i> <br />Papreka?? Cayenne pepper?? Sounds like we have the beginnings of a good rub for my BBQ ribs
What is the purpose of adding this stuff to the paint? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Hi Don,
It is supposed to act as a biocide ... the water critters & scum don't like it ... Doug swears by it (and I'm still pretty sure he meant to say cayenne pepper, not paprika).
I used Interlux csc after blasting the bottom and barrier coating it some years ago and in the interest of not adding the yearly bottom cote opted to go ablative. Then several years later those of us at the yard found that Interlux was not adhering as it once did. That year I sanded down the last of the Interlux and went with West Marine CCP ablative. It was a gamble...one that paid off. This year ( the fourth with CCP) the boat was hauled and though I expected I'd have to repaint found that the paint was still good. Go figure!
Chris, I'm not trying to sell you on this paint, just sharing what I've experienced.
In answer to Frank's question, why barrier coat a new 250?
I would not have thought to do it, but the local Catalina 25/250 Fleet commodore (or pres, or whatever it is) recommended it. So then I checked with Catalina, and they said they had no position either way - I could do it if I wanted. So then I checked with a boatyard that was recommended. They said some people would, some people would not. But if I ever wanted to do it, doing it when new was the best time, because the hull is guaranteed dry.
So then I talked to someone else at Catalina who said that they use vinylester resin, so there should never be any blisters. Then I read on this forum that a few late model boats are finding blisters in the transom.
I won't bore you with the rest of the research, but I decided it this way:
1.) There is evidence that uncoated boats get blisters. If you get a blister, Catalina will pay to repair it for five years. But once they start, they just keep coming, you get moisture in the hull, and the only solution is a peel, drying out for months, etc etc etc.
2.) There is evidence that a barrier coat helps, especially if applied when the hull is dry, and if maintained carefully. MAYBE I won't get blisters at all if I coat it.
I can lose either way. If I don't coat it and get blisters, I go through all the warranty hassle, maybe save money, and *may* eventually have to do the big time repair when the warranty runs out. If I coat it, I might void the warranty (or not), but it sure feels like I have less of a chance of getting blisters.
If I had not read about people still getting blisters in new boats, I might not plan to coat it. But if that chance exists, I'd rather risk the warranty in the hope of avoiding the problem entirely.
In my area, most sailors and boatyards seem to support this view. Although the boatyards have a vested interest.
So, if my analysis is wrong, please educate me, I have not spent the money yet, and would be happy not to...
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.