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 How can I fix my bad rudder blade?
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djn
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1561 Posts

Initially Posted - 11/30/2005 :  10:18:31  Show Profile
Hi All, I got my rudder home yesterday and it needs attention. The first two pictures on of delamination on top and from the top Pintles (sp) to the bottom one. The third picture is of a big chunk of the rudder missing in front of the lower Pintle (sp), and the forth picture is of a big gouge out of the rudder where the out board hit the rudder. Is there an articles that talks about how to fix these problems. I understand that delamination is a common problem. Cheers.

Dennis
No Boat
S.E. Michigan

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djn
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1561 Posts

Response Posted - 11/30/2005 :  10:19:52  Show Profile
And......here are the pictures.




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Captain Bill
Navigator

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USA
148 Posts

Response Posted - 11/30/2005 :  10:37:23  Show Profile
Dennis,
There was a thread on this subject several weeks ago. Try the search routine and see what comes up. Also go to home page and select technical tips there is a good write up with picture illustrations about rudder repair. I've got to repair mine this winter. I have the infamous split developing right down the middle of the two sections. Good luck with yours. Bill

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Rochester
Deckhand

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USA
22 Posts

Response Posted - 11/30/2005 :  10:41:20  Show Profile
I had to repair my rudder which was similar to yours.
It required drilling numerour 3/8 " holes into the rudder, but all the way through. Dry the rudder. Pour into the holes an epoxy mixture. That took several attempts since the expony filled the plywood delaminations.

I then took a router and routed channels at the waterline. These where parallel to verticle and about and inch or two apart. The channels were routed about 3/4 of the way into the rudder.

I epoxyed four pieces 12" of 3/8" stainless threaded rod into the four channels. These extended a good distance below and above the waterline.

I then sanded the surface and primed the rudder with Sear's oil base primer. I painted the rudder with a good exterior paint.

The job held up for several years now.

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Rochester
Deckhand

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USA
22 Posts

Response Posted - 11/30/2005 :  10:43:35  Show Profile
Please note: Do not drill holes completely through the rudder. That was typing error. Sorry about that.

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djn
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1561 Posts

Response Posted - 11/30/2005 :  11:14:28  Show Profile
Hi Rochester, so to be clear, are you saying that you drilled through the outer fiberglass at the site of the delam, then filled that pocket with epoxy, then squished it back together? I so not understand the need for the SS threaded rod? Cheers.

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 11/30/2005 :  14:43:28  Show Profile
Hmmm...If this rudder is the older style, I'd be inclined to replace it with a new balanced rudder rather than putting $$$ and time into a 28 year old unit that is of questionable reliability.

Edited by - dlucier on 11/30/2005 14:45:19
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Gloss
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1916 Posts

Response Posted - 11/30/2005 :  17:14:12  Show Profile
Once again, Don is right on the money with good advice.

If you do decide to spring for a balanced rudder, be very careful of your measurements as there are three different sizes of balanced rudders. Even though I sent a drawing of my delaminated balanced rudder to catalina they sent me the wrong size. To their credit they paid for it to be shipped back, and replaced it, and gave me a new tiller with brackets for my trouble.

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djn
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1561 Posts

Response Posted - 11/30/2005 :  23:00:16  Show Profile
Hi Frank, I am thinking about making my own balanced rudder. Does not seem too hard except getting the airfoil shape right. Cheers.

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 11/30/2005 :  23:47:34  Show Profile  Visit Frank Hopper's Homepage
IDA RUDDER is cheaper than Catalina

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lcharlot
Master Marine Consultant

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Antigua and Barbuda
1301 Posts

Response Posted - 12/01/2005 :  08:22:25  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dlucier</i>
<br />Hmmm...If this rudder is the older style, I'd be inclined to replace it with a new balanced rudder rather than putting $$$ and time into a 28 year old unit that is of questionable reliability.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

I agree with Don. I've read too many postings in this Forum about older rudders suddenly breaking clean in half right at the lower pintle. If the fiberglass shell is splitting apart, it's a sure bet that the plywood core of your rudder is waterlogged and swelling, meaning it's starting to rot from the inside. Replace it, you'll be better off in the long run.

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Don B
Captain

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USA
317 Posts

Response Posted - 12/01/2005 :  08:24:26  Show Profile
Also, it only took 10 days for me to receive the rudder from Ida Sailor. At the time, it would have taken Catalina 4-6 weeks for delivery.

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Rochester
Deckhand

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USA
22 Posts

Response Posted - 12/01/2005 :  10:51:54  Show Profile
My rudder has a plywood core. The core was saturated and started to delaminate. The moisture entered through a crack in the top that seemed similar to yours.

I laid the rudder on its side. I drilled into the core, but not through the gel coat on the other side of the rudder. This took many holes. I let the rudder dry in the sun in greenhouse for a couple of months. I also dried it with a hair dryer.

Then I mixed the two part epoxy and poured into the core. After each pour, I let it set for several days. Then I made another pour. I did this until the core was filled.

There were several apparent stress cracks mostly at the lower pintle. I repaired these by sanding and applying fiber glass woven fabric.

As far as the rods are concerned, the stress on the rudder occurs during heavy weather. My concern was the rudder bottom would shear at the point indicated by the stress cracks. These were mainly at the lower pintle. I replaced the lower pintle with one from West Marine. The new pintle had longer tangs and allowed four bolts rather than the two bolts on the stock pintle.

Since I glassed over the surface of the rudder at the pintle, the area had to cut to accept the tangs of pintle. The purpose of the steel rods was to provide internal reinforcement at the stress point. I do not know if you actually need that or not, however it seemed the prudent thing to do. I have always had concern of the rudder breaking in heavy weather. It did not seem to be a good time to practice steering with the sails.

Let me know it you need any further information.



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djn
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1561 Posts

Response Posted - 12/01/2005 :  14:04:09  Show Profile
Hi Rochester, I think I will take a two step approach. 1. fix the current rudder as best possible for this coming season. 2. make a new balanced rudder this summer. By then I will have access to a vacuum bag system and pre-impregnated carbon fiber fiber glass. Cheers.

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