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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 250 Specific Forum

Any Teak and Holly Floor owners out there

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Tom Potter
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1913 Posts

Initially Posted - 12/26/2005 : 13:11:39

I've been toying with doing something with the floor of the boat. I called Catalina and ask about the Teak and Holly floor for the 250, $580 and a strong warning about the installation (not a piece of cake). I also checked on the 250 carpet $170. I like the Teak floor idea better, but I think I could make my own cheaper. However I need some picture's to study before I go this route. Is there anyone out there with a Wing Keel that has a Teak floor that could supply me with some pictures, I would appreciate it. I'm looking for the area around the deck board that lifts to access the keel bolts. I'm trying to visualize how they made the cuts around the board and the lift board itself as to also see the thickness of the floor. The only Teak floors I've seen in 250s still had the protective paper over them. Any comments from you Teak and Holly floor owners would be helpful.

1997 250 TR WK (sold)
1984 O'Day 28 (sold)
1979 SISU 22
Bath, NC.

Edited by - on

Al
Captain

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USA
269 Posts

Response Posted - 12/26/2005 : 14:31:04

I've got a teak & holly floor for mine, but it's sitting in my laundry room, waiting for me to install it...!

Right after I got my boat in '03, I contacted H & L Marine Woodworking (310-638-8746) about a floor. H & L makes a ton of wood products for the Catalina factory, including floors for various models (at least they did. Now that Catalina is using more plastic laminate flooring, I don't know what H & L's involvement is). Anyway, a single 4' x 8' sheet and a good template is all you need. Per H & L, lay it out and cut it from the back side for a better edge. H & L used to have a template for the 250, but they were a little upset with Catalina when Catalina stopped buying C250 floors from them, so they threw it out (I know, because I had to them look for it...!).

Anyway, a template for our boats is not hard to make, so I bought a 3/8" x 4' x 8' sheet of teak and holly veneer from them and will put it in once I get all my other projects done. Veneer is less durable than planking (It's softer, but much less expensive and easier to install) so I'm doing it last. But even then, it's not the type of floor you're going to want to drag your anchor or dingy outboard across. Of course, you can always go the plastic laminate route.

I haven't addressed the issue of the removable deck board yet, so I can't help with that. Also, it seems like the 8' dimension is about a half inch short, so you have to lay it out so the gap ends up under the table, where it's easier to hide. Again, it's been a while since I measured everything, but I know it's do-able with one 4' x 8' sheet, or I wouldn't have bought it. I don't remember what I paid, but I know it was under $200, maybe even closer to $100.

Edited by - on

atgep
Master Marine Consultant

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1009 Posts

Response Posted - 12/27/2005 : 06:04:10

Tom, Don't forget, you will lose headroom in this Mod. I am all for Mods, but onse that reduce headroom are completely out of the question for me.
It will also be a hard mod to take out if you choose to in the future.

I would go for a berber carpet in a heartbeat though. Something you could take out, bleach and pressure clean if needed. Most carpet places will but binding on a carpet for less than a dollar a foot. You could get a carpet pretty cheap and have it bound to finish the edges.

Tom.

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coldducks
Captain

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USA
342 Posts

Response Posted - 12/27/2005 : 07:57:39

hi tom,
we have a 99 c250 wing keel with the teak and holly floor. i was a little worried about it at first. i was afraid it would scratch and stain. after 5 years, there is not a mark on it!!! we are very pleased with it. i do not have a digital camera though. so i can not post any pictures. but i can tell you that the access to the bilge is an oblong piece about 6" by 24" with a thumb hole cut out at one end. (i am not at the boat so i cant measure it for sure) probably the same as it is for the plastic floor that is standard in the boat. the seam in the wood floor is under the table and is not very noticable. and it is just screwed down. as far as headroom goes, i would not worry about that, this flooring is very thin. i think you will love it. i am sure someone has a digital camera and can take the pictures for you.

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kevinmac
Admiral

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USA
732 Posts

Response Posted - 12/27/2005 : 11:17:31

I have a teak and holly sole on the boat I just took delivery of. I would be glad to take some pictures this week for you. Please tell me very specifically what you want to see, if you want measurements, etc. It looks very conventional to me...

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Tom Potter
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1913 Posts

Response Posted - 12/27/2005 : 13:30:01

Thanks Kevin,
Just a few shots around the access hatch for the keel and where the joints are would be good and maybe a overall shot. I've not made my mind up yet as to which way to go, the carpet is cheaper and easier but I know that Teak floor is sharp. Is yours screwed down as well?

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At Ease
Admiral

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672 Posts

Response Posted - 12/27/2005 : 18:45:13

If anybody wants to redo their teak sole check out: www.ultimatesole.com

I ordered some of their product last year and called them with a question...ended up talking to the chemist who made it. Good stuff.

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johnsonp
Admiral

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USA
606 Posts

Response Posted - 12/27/2005 : 22:41:33

I have teak and holly floor that came with the boat.
I also covered the floor with carpet, berber type.
Things do not slide around as much when placed on the floor and feels better on my feet......
paulj C250wk #719

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kevinmac
Admiral

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USA
732 Posts

Response Posted - 12/30/2005 : 09:17:43

I got some pictures for you last night, probably crummy because they used flash. I will try to get some better ones as soon as the monsoon here ends and I can use natural light. I will post what I have tonight (Friday).

[NOTE: I just edited the next paragraph. It previously said the teak and holly material was riveted, when in fact screws are used. see message below for more, but I did not want someone reading my ravings and getting confused.]

In the meantime, a preview. The flooring is about 1/4" thick so I think the loss of headroom is minimal. It is fastened with screws into the (hull? liner? I dunno) below. The floor is in two pieces, one piece forward of an athwartships line that exactly intersects the compression pole, and the other one continuous piece all the way back aft to the rear berth. Fasters are placed around the edge at fairly widely spaced intervals (a couple of feet by my eye, I will measure today), around the bilge, and across that athwartships line at closer intervals, and closely around the compression post.

As I said, pictures to follow.

Edited by - kevinmac on 01/01/2006 01:30:35

Tom Potter
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1913 Posts

Response Posted - 12/30/2005 : 10:49:33

Thanks Kevin, look forward to seeing those pics.

Edited by - Tom Potter on 12/30/2005 10:52:29

kevinmac
Admiral

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USA
732 Posts

Response Posted - 01/01/2006 : 01:34:57

OK, first of all, I was not drinking, but have no other reasonable explanation. The teak and holly veneered plywood (or whatever it is) is attached with SCREWS, not rivets as my previous post said. I was in a hurry, it was a trick of the light, blah blah blah. Sorry.

See my previous post for a verbal description of the installation.

Here is a link to a page with the pictures you asked for, plus some first pictures of my boat, in drydock after bottom painting, and then (at last!) in my slip.

http://www.catapult.biz/sail/floorandfirst/index.htm

Please let me know if I did not get an angle you need, it is easy to take pictures.

Edited by - on

Tom Potter
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1913 Posts

Response Posted - 01/01/2006 : 10:58:32

Thanks Kevin, the pictures show what I needed to know. Now I need to make my mind up which way to go... carpet or teak. I made a pattern of the floor yesterday.

Edited by - on

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