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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Chainplate /Bulkhead problem.

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sodonnell
1st Mate

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76 Posts

Initially Posted - 01/21/2006 : 23:54:19

Well the story starts with me trying to find the neverending leak on my 1980 C25 SK.
I kept getting a sizable puddle right infront of the porta-potty.
I resealed the windows but still the water came.

I think I finally found the problem.
I went down to check on the boat a couple of days ago to find the bulkhead between the dinette and porta-potty marked with water stains.
I guess I didn't notice it because the dinette back cushion is up against it.

Anyway, the chainplate has four thru bolts in the bulkhead and the bolts seem to have stressed the wood where they go through I guess due to all the moisture that is in the wood.

Any suggestions? I know Don Casey has a good article on resealing the chainplates but is the bulkhead in question now? What kind of wood is the bulkhead?

Edited by - on

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 01/22/2006 : 13:02:41

I'd evaluate the bulkhead very closely. If the bulkhead is rotten you should replace it or take other steps to completely reinforce the area.

If one of the top stays fails you can lose the whole rig, which is a highly undesirable event.

As I recall, several owners on this site have replaced their bulkheads. I think 3/4" (nominal) plywood faced with the wood of your choice is the ticket. From what I can see not really too difficult... use the existing one as a template to cut out the new, drill holes as needed and finish to your personal taste.

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 01/22/2006 : 19:36:26

sodonnell,

First, let me say I haven't replaced one of those bulkheads (yet, knock on fiberglass). However, it doesn't look to me like it would be too difficult. From my point of view, the hardest part would be finding new plywood that matches to other wood in the boat.

While you have the chainplate(s) out, be sure to inspect and epoxy-seal the deck core at the chainplate penetrations.

But before you dive into replacement, how about taking a really close look at the amount of damage to your current bulkhead? If there's a rotted out soft area surrounding the entire chainplate, then replacement is probably the wisest course of action. However, if the wood is just damp, and there's little or no actual rot, it might be a better idea to dry it out thoroughly and then soak some epoxy into the wood at the bolt holes. If you can give us a more precise and detailed description of the size and condition of the area affected by the water, we can probably provide you with more specific and helpful advice.

-- Leon Sisson

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sodonnell
1st Mate

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76 Posts

Response Posted - 01/22/2006 : 20:20:19

Leon,

Thanks as always for the input.

I don't think the bulkhead is rotten.

I see some white-ish water marks and wood grain around the bolts is slightly split.
(Much like what you would see if you overtighten a bolt in a piece of wood)
I knocked the bulkhead up and down looking for a soft spot but couldn't find one.
I think I'll try to temporarily plug the leak at the chainplate and let the bulkhead dry well.

I was thinking to refinish the bulkheads anyway. Now it will be structural improvement too.

I guess the thing to do is remove the chainplate and take a look at the wood underneath.

Do you think the lower shrouds are strong enough to hold things together on land while I working on it.

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 01/22/2006 : 21:31:10

sodonnell,

Re: "Do you think the lower shrouds are strong enough to hold things together on land while I working on it"

Yeah, that shouldn't be a problem. Just as a precaution, I'd run a halyard to something on deck near the location of the removed chainplate. A stanchion base, or the genoa track, or even doubling up on one of the lower chainplates should do fine.

While you've got the chainplate(s) out, I hightly recommend sealing the deck core. I'd use a small circular saw blade in a Dremel (or a bent nail or motorcycle spoke chucked in a drill) to recess the core 1/8" or so. Then use a Q-tip or acid brush to saturate the exposed surface of the core with unthickened epoxy. Follow that immediately with epoxy thickened to about toothpaste consistancy applied with a popsicle stick, filling the area where the core was cut back. Be neat about it -- unlike a round hole, you can't just shove a drill bit down it later to clean up excess hardened epoxy.

If you decide you need to remove the bulkhead for some reason, and it turns out to be under compression, you can temperarily take the load off it by using a piece of 2x4 on top of a jack (such as a small bottle jack or automotive scissors jack) setting on top of a piece of thick plywood beside the compression post to ever so slightly lift up on the deck. If you do this, don't get carried away -- there's not much force needed once you slack off all the rigging turnbuckles first.

-- Leon Sisson

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rustynbigd
1st Mate

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31 Posts

Response Posted - 01/24/2006 : 21:36:45

I have a 1980 25 also. Recently, one of my chainplates sheared in the middle of the bolt in some high winds. You might consider refitting a new chainplate because it uses a 1/2 throughbolt which enlarges the original hole and may clear out any rot that is localized around the old bolt.

my $.02

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 01/24/2006 : 21:42:28

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by rustynbigd
 I have a 1980 25 also. Recently, one of my chainplates sheared in the middle of the bolt in some high winds. You might consider refitting a new chainplate because it uses a 1/2 throughbolt which enlarges the original hole and may clear out any rot that is localized around the old bolt.

my $.02
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
good suggestion

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ed_spengeman
1st Mate

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USA
98 Posts

Response Posted - 02/26/2006 : 19:16:37

Given: 1983 cat sk/tr
Had all the teak out of the boat except main bulkhead. Finally got the _____'s to take out the starboard side first. Previously had a puddle in front of the potty. Bottom of bulkhead was wet and starboard coner(about 2") was punk. No problems up by the bolts. Only the bottom. Port side seems to have same problem with the extreme port corner looking punk. Will have it out soon. I'm thinking windows. If the chainplate was leaking, bolts would be wet. Removed chainplate and it looks good. Will take your suggestion for bedding. Assume use boatlife after you firm it up with expoxy.
Have another leak. When I take my port light out, water drips out of one of the screw holes. I'm hoping rebedding stantions, chainplates, etc. will fix.
One las water problem. On occasion, find a couple of inches of water in the bilge. Are there limber holes in there that interconnect. It has rained like hell a couple of times on the hard with nothing to the bilge. I'm hoping it's from puting the boat in and out or reverse on the motor. You would think something could be mounted on the outside to stop this.
Any feedback on these points would be greatly appreciated. This forum is the only source of great info on these beasts.
Thx,
Ed Spengeman

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 02/26/2006 : 19:26:55

The mast is made to go up and down with minimal effort. Whether or not the lowers can hold it, is a question I'l rather leave to hypotheticals.

Drop the mast and fix the chain plate. Leon's suggestion of a halyard is a good one, however I wouldn't chance it. A new mast and rigging is going to be way more than the fix your considering, and it will only take a few extra hours to lower and raise her.

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ed_spengeman
1st Mate

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USA
98 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2006 : 17:48:28

I have all the bulkheads out except the port side main. It's unbolted and the chainplate is removed. There is some wood damage at the bottom I would like to treat with epoxy. I have have tried to pull the bulkhead out but it won't give. Is this where a jack might help?

Edited by - on

Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3321 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2006 : 18:03:25

"On occasion, find a couple of inches of water in the bilge."
Ed - check your lower gudgeon. A leak here will eventually find its way into the bilge. That gudgeon only goes under water when you are under way.
Derek

Edited by - Derek Crawford on 03/01/2006 18:05:17

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.