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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
When you rebed deck hardware is there anyone that has used rubber and 3m product? I was thinking of making a sandwich layer that would be deck/5200/rubber (cut to shape of hardware base)/compound and finally the hardware. Rubber has got to hold the water out better than just the compound by itself, no? Anybody have experience using rubber in this application? The days ARE getting longer already, it won't be long now.
Daniel 86 "Solar Wind" #5339 C-25 FK/SR I/B Diesel
The real issue with the deck hardware is not the bases of the gear, it is the screws themselves. I was wondering if a thick o-ring under the screws would help. We use o-rings for sealing lots of things in aviation.
You mean glue the gasket to the deck with adhesive, and use an easily-parted sealant between the gasket and deck accessory, right? That sounds to me like a pretty good idea if you have the patience to fit the gaskets. You will be especially glad you did it that way when the exterior teak is due for refinishing. I think automotive parts stores would have fabric-reinforced gasket material by the square foot. It's made sort of like an automotive heater hose, but in a thin flat sheet.
I don't know if I'd trust rubber since it can dry out, shrink, and crack over time. A rubber O-ring cracked on my truck's oil filter adapter causing oil to squirt everywhere.
It seems to me cured polysulfide is more resilient than most rubber gasket material I have seen. I subscribe to using polysulfide, lightly tightening the nuts, letting the sealer cure for a few days, and then cranking down the nuts to put pressure on the gasket that has been created. One key point is to turn the nuts from below--not the machine screws (bolts) from above--so that the seal against the threads is not disturbed. I have also slightly countersunk the holes from above in order to create a little more of a gasket around the bolt.
I also recommend against 5200 for almost any bedding--it's too adhesive, and can damage your gelcoat, wood, or whatever when you need to re-bed in the future. Polysulfide (101, Life Caulk, etc.) is the stuff. After a few years, re-tighten the nuts to add a little pressure to it. At the first sign of trouble (after quite a few years), you can easily remove, clean, and re-bed the hardware or brightwork.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by fhopper@mac.com</i> <br />I'm with Dave, I avert my eyes every time I walk past the stuff on the display; scares me. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Please read especially if you have PVC or plastic parts.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.