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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Outboard motor lock

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johnliv
Deckhand

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USA
3 Posts

Initially Posted - 01/26/2006 : 11:14:43

I've lost about 3 months of sailing due to a stolen aux outboard. I just had a master padlock between the 2 turning screws holding it on the motor bracket, which was apparently short work for the thief. Is there a good, secure outboard lock anyone can recommend?

John Livingston
Alida Lee, 1981 Cat 25 SR/SK

Edited by - on

djn
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1561 Posts

Response Posted - 01/26/2006 : 11:22:51

Hi John, I use a lock that looks like a 12" long "U" channle. You point the two leavers on the outboard toward eachother and then put the u channle over them, then a locking plate covers the open part of the channel. They can be found at any marina for less than 15 bucks. Sorry I don't have pics.

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 01/26/2006 : 11:30:00

John L,

I suggest a heavy SS cable (1/4" 7x7 or 7x19) with Nicopress loops in each end, A hefty (3/8" or thicker) U-bolt through the transom, and a large marine grade padlock. Loop the cable through a big expensive part of the motor and padlock the ends to the U-bolt. Be sure the nuts of the U-bolt aren't easy to remove. To help preserve the lock, coat it with marine environment metal protectant, especially the key hole or combo wheels.

Other anti-theft tactics might include a very distinctive paint job on the motor, readily identifiable exterior modifications, an alarm system that includes a small inconspicuous wire looped through some part of the motor. The wire could be disguised as part of the motor's wiring harness. When that circuit is broken, it triggers a loud alarm. Sailboats typically have lots of battery, so the alarm could be powerful and long-running. Just be sure there's someone around to hear it, and someone who knows how to shut it off.

-- Leon Sisson

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 01/26/2006 : 11:37:57

I think most outboards have a hole on the mount that allows one to bolt the motor directly to the mounting pad. My Mercury has square holes that will take a carriage bolt. To further thwart theives, you could use a reverse thread bolt.

Some years back, a few outboards were stolen from the back of the dry storage lot and the modus operandi was to take bolt cutters and quickly cut through steering cables, starter and alternator wiring, safety chains, and other locking devices.

For those using the U-Shaped Master lock devices that slips over the mounting screw handle (like me), they are sometimes easy to remove by enlarging the slot slightly with a small prybar or wrench handle. Additionally, bolt cutters make short work of getting around these device bys simply cutting through the threaded portion of the motor mount screws.

Bottom line, theives want to get in and out fast, so when devising an antitheft method, make sure it is rather bolt-cutter proof (Leon...your SS cable might last all of a 1/10th of second against bolt cutters)

Edited by - dlucier on 01/26/2006 12:00:24

Turk
Admiral

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USA
736 Posts

Response Posted - 01/26/2006 : 12:32:35

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by johnliv
 I've lost about 3 months of sailing due to a stolen aux outboard. I just had a master padlock between the 2 turning screws holding it on the motor bracket, which was apparently short work for the thief. Is there a good, secure outboard lock anyone can recommend?

John Livingston
Alida Lee, 1981 Cat 25 SR/SK
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Insurance!

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 01/26/2006 : 20:51:33

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">(Leon...your SS cable might last all of a 1/10th of second against bolt cutters)<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Well, not exactly. I just now tried to cut an old C-25 1/4" 7x19 stainless steel swing keel cable with a sharp set of 24" bolt cutters. On the first attempt, about half the strands parted, but the rest of them rearranged themselves into a flat bundle only one wire thick, and thus escaped being cut. I then rotated the cable 1/4 turn, and tried to cut it a second time in the same spot. Once again the remaining strands rearranged themselves into a flat bundle but didn't fail. I then rapidly chewed on it for about five more tries in the same spot without further weakening it significantly. (Each attempt took about 5 to 10 seconds under ideal conditions -- good lighting and a concrete floor to support everything.) Theoretically, a bolt cutter with perfectly aligned sharp jaws and a gorilla at the grips might be able to eventually chew though a 1/4"x7x19 SS cable. I'm betting the average outboard thief would sooner slink down the dock in search of easier pickings.

-- Leon Sisson

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 01/26/2006 : 21:39:33

Hmmm...I thought it would be easier to cut SS cable with cutters???

I replaced my standing rigging on my last boat at the DIY rigging shop at my local WM. I think I made all the cuts with a pair of bolt/rigging cutters and I don't remember it being all that difficult.

Edited by - dlucier on 01/26/2006 21:43:13

Lightnup
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1016 Posts

Response Posted - 01/26/2006 : 21:59:51

Hmmmmm...guess I should go put a lock on my outboard tomorrow.

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 01/27/2006 : 00:22:53

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">...at the DIY rigging shop at my local WM. I think I made all the cuts with a pair of bolt/rigging cutters and I don't remember it being all that difficult.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Bolt cutters and rigging cutters (a.k.a. cable shears) are different critters.

Bolt cutters (the premier hand tool of thieves) work by pressing two chisel blades straight at each other under enormous pressure, much like heavy duty diagonal wire cutters. The blades are seldom sharp, straight, or well aligned. They don't need to be to break solid metal rods.

Cable shears work like scissors. Two sharp blades, each having a very flat side, slide past each other. One difference from scissors is a parrot-like hook or curve to the blades, so that the material can't slip out of the closing jaws. Those would probably work just fine for cutting fine strand wire rope.

However, most low tech burglers are more likely to equip themselves for busting cheap padlocks and hasps, versus carrying huge wire cutters. The extra equipment could be harder to conceal or explain away, and the additional investment might better be spent on drugs.

-- Leon Sisson

Edited by - on

tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts

Response Posted - 01/27/2006 : 10:02:45

John,

My last motor was the target of theives. I had much of the preventive devices mentioned in articals above. They cut through 3/8" chain, sheared the electrical cable, cut the lock on the screw mounts, and the one thing that slowed them down was the Stainless through bolts that Don mentioned. I had thought to wrap the bolt ends with duck tape which may have proven to be the final straw saving the the motor. Duck tape can be difficult to remove specially in the dark. There was evidence that they tried unwrapping the tape, got it off one bolt but not the other.

The other side of the coin is to not present a problem/challenge to professional theives. They just love to take on those who think they have a special device protecting their motor. I've told the story before of a fellow with a new Merk straight six on a speed boat who made the mistake of presenting a challenge to an ingenious theif, a guy who was capable of thinking outside the box. This theif ignored all the protective paraphenalia and chainsawed the transom, motor and all, and made off with the new Merk.

So perhaps the best advice given was INSURANCE

Val on the hard DAGNABIT # 3936 Patchogue, N.Y.

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 01/27/2006 : 10:06:18

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Leon Sisson
 ...However, most low tech burglers are more likely to equip themselves for busting cheap padlocks and hasps, versus carrying huge wire cutters...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

This may be very well so, but a number of theft victims at my marina can attest that some burglars do indeed carry the tools necessary to cut heavy gauge steering/security/wiring cables.

Additionally, I would think that those stealing a $2,000.00 to $3,000.00 outboard from the transom of a boat in a marina are a bit more savvy than the kid stealing a locked 10-speed from a bike rack at the library, and are not only aware of their value, but are also somewhat aware of how they might be attached to a boat's transom.

(Aren't cable locks considered in the bike industry to be the least effective antitheft device?)

Edited by - on

frankr
Captain

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256 Posts

Response Posted - 01/27/2006 : 12:19:31

The UK publication - Practical Boat Owner did a review of outboard locking devices and found that at most the locking devices took less than 2 minutes to be disabled. The strongest took about 5 minutes.

Edited by - on

crcalhoon
Captain

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USA
303 Posts

Response Posted - 01/27/2006 : 12:41:51

Just a quick response, with little thought to the practicality. I have a big strong gate at home, and about 11 years ago decided I wanted to lock it securely. l went to a place here called Mill and Mine Supply and bought a short section of alloy chain. At that time it was $7.50 a foot. The guy at the store said "obviously, it can be cut, because we're cutting it for you, but I'll guarantee that one man can't lift the bolt cutters that it takes to cut it." I have that fastened with one of the locks with the concealed shackle. I know that they could still get in, but they are going to have to work for it. Might be some application here. Oh, and the thing has been hanging on my gate for all these years with minimal rust.

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tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts

Response Posted - 01/27/2006 : 12:48:21

Should have used duct tape.

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 01/28/2006 : 12:37:13

Although maybe not as secure as Val's duct tape

, this product looks interesting...

[url="http://www.mcgard.com/marine/outboard.asp"]McGard Outboard Motor Locks[/url]

Theft Protection for Outboard Motors.

"McGard outboard motor locks are designed to lock the outboard onto the transom of the boat. Simply replace one of the mounting nuts with a McGard locking nut. McGard outboard motor locks are identical in quality and construction to our stern drive locks. A free-spinning collar turns if attacked by gripping tools, protecting you against costly outboard motor theft and the resulting inconvenience."

Edited by - on

Ben - FL
Admiral

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880 Posts

Response Posted - 01/28/2006 : 16:11:08

I can empathize with those of you who have had your OBM lifted. It sure is a sinking feeling when you arrive to cast off and get under way only to stand with your jaw dropped staring at a blank spot where there should be a motor.

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 01/28/2006 : 18:38:39

Put some 3M caulking on the outside of the motor.
A tiny dab with the tip of your little finger will do nicely.

Based on my experience, that tiny dab will allow you to follow a trail of smeared white goo all the way back to their house... if they make it that far. (Think Brer rabbit and the tar-baby)

Since the laws of physics dictate that 3M sealant doubles in mass each time it is touched, I figure that would also be a good way to stop the Iranian nuke program.

By my calculations, an air-drop of about 28-1/2 tubes of 3M-5200 over the countryside will render the entire nation stuck to a halt in short order. We then offer them an oil tanker full of hand cleaner in exchange for their surrender. Problem solved.

On a more serious note, you can gnaw your way through small-diameter cable with (small) bolt cutters fairly easily... but when you get up to 3/8" or so, the looser jaw clearances in the bigger bolt cutters won't cut clean... it smooshes the cable into a mess.

You never can completely stop a determined thief, just slow 'em down enough to look for easier pickings.

Edited by - on

bear
Admiral

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USA
909 Posts

Response Posted - 01/28/2006 : 19:08:18

Has anybody looked into a small tracking device to be put under the engine cover somewhere? Industry has used these for many years, not sure about the cost, but it might be worth looking into.

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bear
Admiral

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USA
909 Posts

Response Posted - 01/28/2006 : 19:08:36

Has anybody looked into a small tracking device to be put under the engine cover somewhere? Industry has used these for many years, not sure about the cost, but it might be worth looking into.

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frankr
Captain

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256 Posts

Response Posted - 01/29/2006 : 10:09:36

You could always paint the OB a bright pink, lime green or florescent
orange so that no one would want it.

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 01/29/2006 : 10:41:09

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by frankr
 You could always paint the OB a bright pink, lime green or florescent orange so that no one would want it.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Including the present owner!

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atgep
Master Marine Consultant

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1009 Posts

Response Posted - 01/29/2006 : 11:55:01

I put a big cable lock on the new motor. I was tired of the rattling the old master lock. I picked it up at Home depot.

Model: Key Cable Lock
Key cable provides tough and affordable personal property security

Flexible, 1/2" (12 mm) diameter, vinyl coated steel cable

Tough integrated lock head

Snap-shut design for easy lock-up - key not needed to close lock

Includes two coded keys

Vinyl coated and weatherproof

5' x 1/2" (152 cm x 12 mm)

Limited Lifetime Warranty

Item # 830139

I loop it through the handle and around the stern pulpit. I figure it is also there to help it the motor tries to go swimming.

Tom.

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 01/29/2006 : 12:12:27

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dlucier
 I think most outboards have a hole on the mount that allows one to bolt the motor directly to the mounting pad. My Mercury has square holes that will take a carriage bolt. To further thwart theives, you could use a reverse thread bolt.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I use tamper proof hardware in these holes. The location of the screws make it difficult to use any cutting or grinding tool.

http://www.globalfasteners.com/tamperproof.htm

Edited by - on

DanM
Captain

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USA
256 Posts

Response Posted - 01/30/2006 : 10:09:52

Sounds like a combination of these devices is the best route. The McGuard company is a few miles from me. They replaced, free of charge, the lock for Blazer spare tire crank hole when a small stud in it corroded (second car it was on, so about 6 yrs). But, I think their transom bolt would not be much of a deterent on a lift bracket. We have a lock thru the mounting bolts handles, with a strechey cable that runs through the carry handle and around a stantion. No need to remove it to raise and lower the OB.
That said, still vulnerable to bolt cutters, so the new OB is listed on our policy.

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johnliv
Deckhand

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USA
3 Posts

Response Posted - 01/30/2006 : 19:17:05

Wow! Thanks everyone. What a great forum (and great participants). I think I'll try a combination of ideas (including ugly paint--which was my wife's first recommendation). Like the old joke "You don't have to be faster than the bear, you just have to be faster than the slowest guy running from the bear", I think I just have to make my motor harder to get than the one on the O'day in the next slip. :~)

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