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jm
Captain

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Canada
290 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/13/2002 :  11:28:28  Show Profile
I'm trying to get my hands on a temporary trailer to 'wheel' my 1982 Cat25 FK out of the water to do some quick repairs on the knotmeter.

While I'm looking, I would like to read/understand the 'how to' of getting her out of the water and back in. Does anyone have a link, or archive that discusses this ?

I have the truck, a trailer and concrete loading ramp going into
8 ft of water. Do the trailered boats have a bow-eye to winch the keel into place on the trailer ? Mine doesn't, where is the best place to attach the winch cable to ? (maybe I'm getting ahead of myself here) I'll withhold questions until after I've read something.



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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5909 Posts

Response Posted - 05/13/2002 :  12:48:51  Show Profile
A bow eye is standard equipment on a C-25. It should be situated about halfway between the stem and the water line stripe (about a foot below the anchor locker drain tube). It's a mystery to me why your boat would not have one.

If, for any reason, your boat doesn't have a bow eye, and if the trailer has a tongue extension, you should be able to get the trailer deep enough, on a ramp that is 8 feet deep, to float the boat onto the trailer. If so, I don't think a bow eye is necessary to hold the boat on the trailer. You should be able to rig a harness of stout line to your two bow cleats that will be sufficient to do the job.

Steve Milby "Captiva Wind" C-25 T/FK #2554

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MattL
Admiral

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USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 05/13/2002 :  13:32:36  Show Profile
I have a trailer you could use, I am in Central California if that is close. I do need the trailer for mid July.
I dont have a bow eye on my boat, also a Fin keel. The last time retreiving was a breez even with the tide out. New laws in CA would not allow trailrite to put an extension on the trailer. What I do is attach about 35 feet of line to the trailer and truck, with wheels chocked. Actually I have 3 ropes for a little redundency. disconect trailer and drive forward removing slack. remove chocks and slowly back up. I had a buddy back up while I was on the boat. I took a extra line, same a the main sheet from the winch and cleat on port around the side of the boat around the riser part of the trailer in front, to the sratboard winch and cleat. Sinch up the boat and drive
out.
Hope that helps.

Matt
EC Rider
Cat 25 86'
FK SR

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Ed Montague
Captain

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USA
499 Posts

Response Posted - 05/13/2002 :  13:44:52  Show Profile
Matt, tell me about this new law on tongue extensions. I don't need any surprizes next time I try to pull the boat out.

Ed Montague on 'Yahoo'
1978 #765 SK, Stnd, Dinette ~_/)~

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MattL
Admiral

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USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 05/13/2002 :  15:39:03  Show Profile
I don't think it will affect you. What I was told, when I asked Trailright if I could have a toung extension put on, was that the law states for a certain weight, I don't remembere the poundage, the manufacturer can not put an extension on the trailer. If under the stated weight there is no problem.
It was suggested by others in our club to go ahead and put one on after market.
I do know that a guy in the club with an O'Day 25 had an extension on his new trailer, but that was 8 or 9 years ago.
I don't know if it is that great an advantage to use an extension. You still have to disconnect the tailer to extend the trailer, don't you? Also with the toung a little lower the boat might sit a little better when you pull out. I have not tried it with an extension so I don't know the answer to this.


Matt
EC Rider
Cat 25 86'
FK SR

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Gary B.
Admiral

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USA
969 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2002 :  05:02:45  Show Profile
I have a tongue extension (10' maybe) on my 1978 EZ Loader. I have only had to use it a time or two going to lakes with very shallow ramps. I loved it, as I would hate doing the "rope thing". Yes, you have to unhook, pull the extension, then rehook to the ball. But, at least the sucker is there securely and one can back down a ramp and be in quite good control. I'm glad I have one. Washington resident. Gary B. SK/SR #685 Encore!


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Shelby
Navigator

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USA
155 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2002 :  10:21:53  Show Profile
I use the extension on my trailer every time I put our C25 in the water. It is a little easier for us because we just have to bring the boat from a dry slip to the ramp, so we can rig the extension prior to driving to the ramp (1/4 mile). I havn't noticed any difference or difficulty backing down the ramp with the extension.

Shelby on "Third S" '82 C25 #3208 SKSR


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MattL
Admiral

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USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2002 :  11:43:16  Show Profile
Gary and Shelby,
I think I may need to go a little deeper than you guys because I have a fin keel not swing.<img src=icon_smile_shy.gif border=0 align=middle>

Matt Loeffler
E.C. Rider
Cat 25 86'
FK/SR _/)

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Ed Montague
Captain

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USA
499 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2002 :  22:12:12  Show Profile
Seems like everytime I try to extend, the darned thing is stuck and I have to shake, wiggle and yank on it to come out. I carry a can of WD40 just for pre-lubing the extension. I might try the rope/chain technique just so I don't have to mess with it. Thanks for the heads up, it doesn't look like I need to worry.

Ed Montague on 'Yahoo'
1978 #765 SK, Stnd, Dinette ~_/)~

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n/a
deleted

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125 Posts

Response Posted - 05/15/2002 :  01:01:35  Show Profile
Ed your problem IS WD-40. That stuff is not and was never made to be a lubricant. It is a moisture displacer, and nothin else. I work in the Chemical and lubrication industry and it's common knowledge that after that product has been on metal for about 30 days it begins to actively corrode ferrous metals. It is also still considered highly Flammable, which means it consists of mostly solvents, ergo no lubrication value. The can could best be used for a doorstop, or paperweight.


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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 05/15/2002 :  01:21:43  Show Profile
"I'm trying to get my hands on a temporary trailer to 'wheel' my 1982 Cat25 FK out of the water to do some quick repairs on the knotmeter." - JM

If you are just doing a "quick" repair, have you considered going to a full service marina and having the boat picked up with a travel lift long enough to do the repair then dropped back in the water?

Or instead of fixing your knotmeter you could measure boatspeed like in the days of yore by tossing a board over the side that is attached to a length of rope that has a series of "knots" tied in it. As the knotted rope pays out, you count the number of knots to determine your boatspeed.

Or you could install a couple of extra bilge pumps, pull the knotmeter out at the dock, and work quick. <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>

Don Lucier, Northstar
C25 SR/FK

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Ed Montague
Captain

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USA
499 Posts

Response Posted - 05/15/2002 :  12:19:30  Show Profile
OK Gary, I'm all ears. What should I be using instead of WD40? I was aware that it isn't the best but short of using grease which would create a huge mess what do you recommend?

Ed Montague on 'Yahoo'
1978 #765 SK, Stnd, Dinette ~_/)~

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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5909 Posts

Response Posted - 05/15/2002 :  13:04:50  Show Profile
Ed,

I don't doubt that Matt has successfully used the rope method to launch his boat, but, from his brief description, it's not clear exactly how he does it. I saw a boat dealer in Florida try to launch a fixed keel C-25 (not mine, thank goodness) after unhooking the trailer from the tow vehicle and using rope as an extension. The boat ended up sitting on its transom on the muddy bottom, with its bow pointing straight up at the sky, and the trailer did the same thing. I don't know how they got the boat down onto her bottom, but I'll bet there was a big splash and flexing of bulkheads. There are variables that could cause it to work for Matt, and not for you, such as the slope of the ramp, and the amount of tongue weight on the trailer. Just think it through carefully before you try it.

Steve Milby "Captiva Wind" C-25 T/FK #2554

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ltenny
1st Mate

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35 Posts

Response Posted - 05/15/2002 :  13:15:05  Show Profile
One more option, which is my personal favorite: rent a Ford F250 from a Ford dealership (hard to find but it does happen). Back the truck way down the ramp, keeping the trailer connected the whole time. Truck will get wet, but will survive. I have done this with my C27 fin keel - it has worked so far.


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RichardG
Admiral

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USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 05/15/2002 :  14:19:12  Show Profile
While I have never done it, here is a link which explains (with pictures) how a Flicka owner does it --

http://www.coslink.net/personal/flickafriends/notes/trailer/

RichardG 81 C25 SR/FK "Sanity"

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MattL
Admiral

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USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 05/15/2002 :  15:56:15  Show Profile
For my procedure:
1. prepare boat for launching, ie. raise mast, mount engin/motor, etc.
2. back up to the ramp, stop before the water.
3. chock the wheels, both sides please.
4. attach rope, chain to trailer. This is critical the first time I did this sans boat the rope came loose. Fortunatley we could see the bubbles coming up from the trailer. I have used t ropes, redundency, but plan on getting a couple, more redundency, chains of about 30 to 40 feet.
5. release trailer from truck, my tounge weigth is sufficient to keep the trailer down. I have a wheel designed for this attached to the trailer, it is a bit more heavy duty than the swivle wheel for the toung jack. It does not swivle.
6. take up slack, remove chocks
7. back in to water till boat floats. the riser at the front of the trailer is above the water.
8. pull out. chock wheels. backup and reattach trailer. drive away.

loading is pretty much just the opposite of launching
hope that helps

Matt Loeffler
E.C. Rider
Cat 25 86'
FK/SR _/)

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n/a
deleted

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125 Posts

Response Posted - 05/15/2002 :  18:47:09  Show Profile
Ed. Where exactly is hilmar ? Is it near Modesto, Merced, Fresno ?
I'm north of You in Vacaville, near sacramento. Now to the lubrication issue. The latest technology has produced some great dry film lubricants. They resist dirt, dust and oily buildups, so you don't get your pants greasy or have a mess. This also has a low friction coeffient so surfaces slide easily, similar to silicon but doesn't affect subsequent paint coatngs. They have corrosion resistance and seal out moisture, and hey are even approved by usda for food handling areas. The one I'm most familiar with is a CRC product called "Dry-Glide", although there are other brands out there, I like this one for other environmental and safety reasons. If you let me know the closest city, I can let you know where to find the stuff.


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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3323 Posts

Response Posted - 05/15/2002 :  19:36:17  Show Profile
Ed - try using McLube - I use it on virtually everything on the boat that requires lubrication - including sail glides, traveler, sheeting blocks, even along the bottom of the hull if it's a serious race day!Derek on "This Side Up"


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Ed Montague
Captain

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USA
499 Posts

Response Posted - 05/16/2002 :  02:38:39  Show Profile
Thanks Gary, Hilmar is a small dairy community 4 miles due south of Turlock. Turlock is between Modesto and Merced. Once you get off of hwy 99 roll your window down and as soon as you smell the cow poop you know that you are close. There are something like 300,000 dairy cows in the in the 2 county area around us. No kidding. I will look for the CRC product and give it a try. Sounds like good stuff. I will also look for Derek's go fast stuff.

As for renting a truck so I don't need to get mine wet, HMMMMMM. The ramp at Don Pedro is about 6 lanes wide and not very steep. Made to accommodate fancy ski boats with a draft of inches. My exhaust is blowing bubbles as it is with the extension. At least it's fresh water, I certainly wouldn't want to back my truck that far in the water if it were salt.

Ed Montague on 'Yahoo'
1978 #765 SK, Stnd, Dinette ~_/)~

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gnorgan
Admiral

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USA
563 Posts

Response Posted - 05/18/2002 :  00:43:55  Show Profile
"I'm trying to get my hands on a temporary trailer to 'wheel' my 1982 Cat25 FK out of the water to do some quick repairs on the knotmeter."


Here's a thought about pulling the knotmeter (although I haven't tried it yet to see if it actually works): I teach science so have available an assortment of different sized solid rubber stoppers. I recently replaced my impeller but the boat (wing) was already on my trailer. I was sitting there, staring at the open hole, when I got this idea: Why not just have someone in the water with a rubber stopper while you are inside pulling the knotmeter. As the meter gets part way pulled out, push the stopper in to plug the hole! <img src=icon_smile_question.gif border=0 align=middle> Saves going through all the hassle (maybe $$) of pulling the boat out of the water......of course I have NOT done this myself but it SEEMS like it would work.<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>

C25 tall/wing
Classical Cat #5944

Edited by - gnorgan on 05/18/2002 00:44:55

Edited by - gnorgan on 05/18/2002 00:47:07

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gnorgan
Admiral

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USA
563 Posts

Response Posted - 05/18/2002 :  01:18:23  Show Profile
<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle> Better yet, we all should have that "Dummy Plug" rattling around down there....why not have it shoved in from the outside (reaching under while on the dingy) whilst you pull the knotmeter out from the inside? Same diameter widget, right?<img src=icon_smile_cool.gif border=0 align=middle>

C25 tall/wing
Classical Cat #5944

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MattL
Admiral

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USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 05/27/2002 :  03:33:48  Show Profile
OK I am going to try a link. It is to the cat250 tec page. There are cool photos and discription of using a rope to launch your boat.http://c25c250.best.vwh.net/restricted/fortu.html
take a look at it the guy set up a real cool winch system.


Matt Loeffler
E.C. Rider
Cat 25 86'
FK/SR _/)

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