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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
 General Sailing Forum
 hatch board replacement
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jm
Captain

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Canada
290 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/13/2002 :  16:27:55  Show Profile

looking for ideas for new and improved hatchboards?


Edited by - jm on 09/10/2002 14:27:02

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 05/13/2002 :  16:47:42  Show Profile
It's always disheartening to hear stories like this. Sorry for your loss and I share your anger.
3/4" Lexan is pretty robust, but then what holds it in place is much less hardened . . .

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allencl
Navigator

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USA
143 Posts

Response Posted - 05/13/2002 :  16:48:46  Show Profile  Visit allencl's Homepage
Sorry about your boat. Some people are really low.

As far as replacing the hatchway boards, I wouldn't like to stow a single piece replacement. That reminds me of the framed-in screen that came with our boat that I always found annoying (we use a foldable BugBusters screen now and really like it).

I do like the idea of a translucent board or boards as a way to let some extra light in and have some visibility. I've thought about making an alternative "middle" drop board from acrylic or lexan as an option to the teak one- depending on whether one wants privacy or more light...

FWIW,



-Chris on "SPIRIT" C25 SR WK #5644

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ltenny
1st Mate

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35 Posts

Response Posted - 05/13/2002 :  20:18:22  Show Profile
(This is all from reading books & not from real experience so take it for what it's worth - probably not much :)

In very bad conditions with big waves and the possibility of a knockdown you may want to leave the bottom board in place to limit the amount of water that could get into the cabin in such a case.


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coldducks
Captain

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USA
342 Posts

Response Posted - 05/13/2002 :  20:24:24  Show Profile
i am so sorry to hear about the break in on your boat. it think i makes all of us mad. two years ago, we had a smaller boat that we had to replace the hatch. since it was very dark inside i went to a local glass place and had a new hatch made of lexan. it was very sturdy and it looked beautiful. i dropped off the specs on monday and picked it up on tuesday. i would do it again in a minute. good luck to you...

COLDDUCKS
FANTASY #409 C250WK

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William Matley
1st Mate

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52 Posts

Response Posted - 05/13/2002 :  21:53:41  Show Profile
Jm, Sorry to hear about your broken boards.

A few years ago (gosh I just realized it was 20 years ago) I happened to come into possession of a 5/8 thick sheet of acrylic.

About 12 years ago, I cut this plastic sheet into 3 new hatch boards. I used them in place of my wood boards until a couple years ago when I cut one up to make a new support for my new outboard motor bracket.

While the plastic worked well, there are a couple down sides. First when the weather would get cool and rainy, the boards would keep out the rain but the boat became so hot and stuffy, we just couldn't live on board with the plastic boards in place. The boards also let people see into the cabin so it provided no privacy, and the sun light would wake me when I wanted to sleep.

All in all the plastic boards were not that good of an idea, that's why I cut it up.

I'd recommend that you look into a small surveillance camera. They have some that are the size of a dime, to me, I would rather catch the punk instead of forcing them to tear the boat apart.

That sounds like a great project, maybe I'll work on one for "chorte", If I come up with something I'll let the group know.



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Bristle
Admiral

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USA
834 Posts

Response Posted - 05/13/2002 :  23:09:12  Show Profile
Another material worth considering: King Starboard--a non-transparent plastic that comes in several thicknesses and colors. (Find it on the Web with any search engine.) You can work it with normal woodworking tools, including a power saw, router, drill, etc. It's formulated to stand up to UV and other abuses. I just used it for backing plates for my engine bracket, and working it is a breeze. It isn't cheap, but it's cheaper than teak! West sells a limited selection. For the companionway, I'd still think about 2-3 pieces--mostly because one would be pretty big. Multiple boards would require routing the overlaps between the boards.

Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 SR-FK #5032 "Passage" in CT

Edited by - bristle on 05/13/2002 23:11:51

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John V.
Admiral

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USA
559 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2002 :  00:03:07  Show Profile  Visit John V.'s Homepage
Sorry to hear about the break-in. When I bought my C25 last fall it had the old half inch boards with the laminates peeling. I decided to make a folding hatch with smoked lexan windows. They look great and they keep the water out.(so far) I used 3/4 red oak and built the frames based on the shape of the old doors. I daddoed and pegged the joints to keep high corner strength. I used piano hinge on the inside of the hatch and epoxied a strip over the joint on the outside keeping water out of the joint. If I can find my digital camera I'll post a snapshot on this thread. I hope you find the right soultion. I used red oak because the teak was so expensive. I had my local sherwin williams store compare a piece of varnished teak and they mixed a stain for me that left the oak looking like the teak when varnished.

John V. still refitting Nin Bimash II
77 C25 sk/sr #153


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John V.
Admiral

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USA
559 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2002 :  00:07:31  Show Profile  Visit John V.'s Homepage
Sorry to hear about the break-in. When I bought my C25 last fall it had the old half inch boards with the laminates peeling. I decided to make a folding hatch with smoked lexan windows. They look great and they keep the water out.(so far) I used 3/4 red oak and built the frames based on the shape of the old doors. I daddoed and pegged the joints to keep high corner strength. I used piano hinge on the inside of the hatch and epoxied a strip over the joint on the outside keeping water out of the joint. If I can find my digital camera I'll post a snapshot on this thread. I hope you find the right soultion. I used red oak because the teak was so expensive. I had my local sherwin williams store compare a piece of varnished teak and they mixed a stain for me that left the oak looking like the teak when varnished.

John V. still refitting Nin Bimash II
77 C25 sk/sr #153


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cdscott
Deckhand

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USA
15 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2002 :  11:18:51  Show Profile
Too bad about the break-in, I am glad they did not trash the entire boat.

I just built new hatch boards from cypress. It has very good weathering qualities. If the house I grew up in is any indication, they will outlast me.

I used a 1” X 12” and had to trim the top board slightly. I then cut 3”strips to use as vertical braces, glued and screwed them to the inside of the boards. I overlapped the braces with a beveled cut to insure a snug fit. They look good.


Douglas Scott, Brandon MS
dougscott@cmams.com
#1459 - Free Indeed, 1979 Tall rig, Swing keel
"If the Son therefore shall make you free, ye shall be FREE INDEED." John 8:36

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n/a
deleted

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125 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2002 :  13:11:29  Show Profile
You may wish to know that Catalina Direct in Sacramento, Ca. Sells both full sets of teak, with or without side rails, stepplate ect.
They also have the complete or piecemeal parts in starboard for those who no longer want to be a slave to teak. I learned this the hard way after paying $500 to a very professional nautaical norwegian woodworker to make me new hatch boards, trim and everything needed.... Then after spending all that money found that I could have replaced it all with precut and routed starboard for abou a 1/3 the cost.


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tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts

Response Posted - 05/18/2002 :  09:28:29  Show Profile
Hi Jm,

Also sorry to hear about your dilemma. I suppose you're too gentlemanly to have included one last sentence in your last paragraph. You know the one where ,far out to sea, you throw the bast@#$ overboard.
My encounter with sea-scoundrels was when they attempted to steal the outboard, cut the wires, unbolted the motor, and stopped short of lifting it off the mount.
Val on"CALISTA" #3936
Tall/Wing
Patchogue,N.Y.

Val Bisagni

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Bristle
Admiral

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USA
834 Posts

Response Posted - 05/18/2002 :  11:34:49  Show Profile
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
My encounter with sea-scoundrels was when they attempted to steal the outboard, cut the wires, unbolted the motor, and stopped short of lifting it off the mount.
Val on"CALISTA" #3936
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
Dang, Val... Just one step short of a new Honda! You shouldn't've scared 'em off!

Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 SR-FK #5032 "Passage" in CT

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Douglas
Master Marine Consultant

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1595 Posts

Response Posted - 05/18/2002 :  13:00:41  Show Profile  Visit Douglas's Homepage
I lost a 10 Hp. Honda to a thief 2 years ago. The only thing worse than having it stolen was trying to deal with the insurance company. They have been legaly steeling for years. After shelling out some additional money I ended up with an almost new 8 hp. Honda. The company would not have paid if I had not publicly embaresed them on the internet.

Doug&Ruth
Wind Lass
Tacoma Wa.

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Bristle
Admiral

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USA
834 Posts

Response Posted - 05/18/2002 :  17:08:58  Show Profile
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
The company would not have paid if I had not publicly embaresed them on the internet.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
Which company? (Or did your settlement include an anonymity clause?)

Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 SR-FK #5032 "Passage" in CT

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Douglas
Master Marine Consultant

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1595 Posts

Response Posted - 05/18/2002 :  18:30:42  Show Profile  Visit Douglas's Homepage
The insurance was through Boat U.S. they farm it out to the cheapest bidder. Mine was through Firemans on the east coast.

Doug&Ruth
Wind Lass
Tacoma Wa.

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singaporesam
Deckhand

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5 Posts

Response Posted - 05/21/2002 :  11:57:40  Show Profile
Check out www.x10.com
These little cameras are great. Friend of mine has them all over his home and he checks on his house when on vacation through the internet.
Couldn't these be used on and/or in a sailboat?
Even has motion detectors to makes things easier.
I've got some; just haven't installed them yet.
????
yhanks
S

Singaporesam

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Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 05/21/2002 :  13:28:18  Show Profile  Visit Champipple's Homepage
JM -

just for future reference....the $ works much better for "S" than does a 5

I have also found a lot of success with using a 3 for the letter "e" and an octothorpe (#) for the letter H

Furthermore, the letter O is easiest when replaced by an *
An A is @ (although on the computer, it looks alot like an O, thereby making it interchangeable.

lastly, I's allthough rarely used seem to be best replaced by a "!"

With all this in mind the guy who broke into your boat was a $OBMF!ng a$$#*L3. But that is just my preferences.

As for your hatchboards. try this guy; he had some a while ago...

DW

http://www.geocities.com/davidluc/parts.html

Duane Wolff
"The Flying Wasp"
C-25, #401 std,sk
Chief Measurer C-25/250 National Assn.
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2dc20b3127cce9cd2f45b211a0000004010" border=0>

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