Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
It's always disheartening to hear stories like this. Sorry for your loss and I share your anger. 3/4" Lexan is pretty robust, but then what holds it in place is much less hardened . . .
Sorry about your boat. Some people are really low.
As far as replacing the hatchway boards, I wouldn't like to stow a single piece replacement. That reminds me of the framed-in screen that came with our boat that I always found annoying (we use a foldable BugBusters screen now and really like it).
I do like the idea of a translucent board or boards as a way to let some extra light in and have some visibility. I've thought about making an alternative "middle" drop board from acrylic or lexan as an option to the teak one- depending on whether one wants privacy or more light...
(This is all from reading books & not from real experience so take it for what it's worth - probably not much :)
In very bad conditions with big waves and the possibility of a knockdown you may want to leave the bottom board in place to limit the amount of water that could get into the cabin in such a case.
i am so sorry to hear about the break in on your boat. it think i makes all of us mad. two years ago, we had a smaller boat that we had to replace the hatch. since it was very dark inside i went to a local glass place and had a new hatch made of lexan. it was very sturdy and it looked beautiful. i dropped off the specs on monday and picked it up on tuesday. i would do it again in a minute. good luck to you...
A few years ago (gosh I just realized it was 20 years ago) I happened to come into possession of a 5/8 thick sheet of acrylic.
About 12 years ago, I cut this plastic sheet into 3 new hatch boards. I used them in place of my wood boards until a couple years ago when I cut one up to make a new support for my new outboard motor bracket.
While the plastic worked well, there are a couple down sides. First when the weather would get cool and rainy, the boards would keep out the rain but the boat became so hot and stuffy, we just couldn't live on board with the plastic boards in place. The boards also let people see into the cabin so it provided no privacy, and the sun light would wake me when I wanted to sleep.
All in all the plastic boards were not that good of an idea, that's why I cut it up.
I'd recommend that you look into a small surveillance camera. They have some that are the size of a dime, to me, I would rather catch the punk instead of forcing them to tear the boat apart.
That sounds like a great project, maybe I'll work on one for "chorte", If I come up with something I'll let the group know.
Another material worth considering: King Starboard--a non-transparent plastic that comes in several thicknesses and colors. (Find it on the Web with any search engine.) You can work it with normal woodworking tools, including a power saw, router, drill, etc. It's formulated to stand up to UV and other abuses. I just used it for backing plates for my engine bracket, and working it is a breeze. It isn't cheap, but it's cheaper than teak! West sells a limited selection. For the companionway, I'd still think about 2-3 pieces--mostly because one would be pretty big. Multiple boards would require routing the overlaps between the boards.
Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 SR-FK #5032 "Passage" in CT
Sorry to hear about the break-in. When I bought my C25 last fall it had the old half inch boards with the laminates peeling. I decided to make a folding hatch with smoked lexan windows. They look great and they keep the water out.(so far) I used 3/4 red oak and built the frames based on the shape of the old doors. I daddoed and pegged the joints to keep high corner strength. I used piano hinge on the inside of the hatch and epoxied a strip over the joint on the outside keeping water out of the joint. If I can find my digital camera I'll post a snapshot on this thread. I hope you find the right soultion. I used red oak because the teak was so expensive. I had my local sherwin williams store compare a piece of varnished teak and they mixed a stain for me that left the oak looking like the teak when varnished.
John V. still refitting Nin Bimash II 77 C25 sk/sr #153
Sorry to hear about the break-in. When I bought my C25 last fall it had the old half inch boards with the laminates peeling. I decided to make a folding hatch with smoked lexan windows. They look great and they keep the water out.(so far) I used 3/4 red oak and built the frames based on the shape of the old doors. I daddoed and pegged the joints to keep high corner strength. I used piano hinge on the inside of the hatch and epoxied a strip over the joint on the outside keeping water out of the joint. If I can find my digital camera I'll post a snapshot on this thread. I hope you find the right soultion. I used red oak because the teak was so expensive. I had my local sherwin williams store compare a piece of varnished teak and they mixed a stain for me that left the oak looking like the teak when varnished.
John V. still refitting Nin Bimash II 77 C25 sk/sr #153
Too bad about the break-in, I am glad they did not trash the entire boat.
I just built new hatch boards from cypress. It has very good weathering qualities. If the house I grew up in is any indication, they will outlast me.
I used a 1” X 12” and had to trim the top board slightly. I then cut 3”strips to use as vertical braces, glued and screwed them to the inside of the boards. I overlapped the braces with a beveled cut to insure a snug fit. They look good.
Douglas Scott, Brandon MS dougscott@cmams.com #1459 - Free Indeed, 1979 Tall rig, Swing keel "If the Son therefore shall make you free, ye shall be FREE INDEED." John 8:36
You may wish to know that Catalina Direct in Sacramento, Ca. Sells both full sets of teak, with or without side rails, stepplate ect. They also have the complete or piecemeal parts in starboard for those who no longer want to be a slave to teak. I learned this the hard way after paying $500 to a very professional nautaical norwegian woodworker to make me new hatch boards, trim and everything needed.... Then after spending all that money found that I could have replaced it all with precut and routed starboard for abou a 1/3 the cost.
Also sorry to hear about your dilemma. I suppose you're too gentlemanly to have included one last sentence in your last paragraph. You know the one where ,far out to sea, you throw the bast@#$ overboard. My encounter with sea-scoundrels was when they attempted to steal the outboard, cut the wires, unbolted the motor, and stopped short of lifting it off the mount. Val on"CALISTA" #3936 Tall/Wing Patchogue,N.Y.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> My encounter with sea-scoundrels was when they attempted to steal the outboard, cut the wires, unbolted the motor, and stopped short of lifting it off the mount. Val on"CALISTA" #3936 <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> Dang, Val... Just one step short of a new Honda! You shouldn't've scared 'em off!
Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 SR-FK #5032 "Passage" in CT
I lost a 10 Hp. Honda to a thief 2 years ago. The only thing worse than having it stolen was trying to deal with the insurance company. They have been legaly steeling for years. After shelling out some additional money I ended up with an almost new 8 hp. Honda. The company would not have paid if I had not publicly embaresed them on the internet.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> The company would not have paid if I had not publicly embaresed them on the internet. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> Which company? (Or did your settlement include an anonymity clause?)
Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 SR-FK #5032 "Passage" in CT
Check out www.x10.com These little cameras are great. Friend of mine has them all over his home and he checks on his house when on vacation through the internet. Couldn't these be used on and/or in a sailboat? Even has motion detectors to makes things easier. I've got some; just haven't installed them yet. ???? yhanks S
just for future reference....the $ works much better for "S" than does a 5
I have also found a lot of success with using a 3 for the letter "e" and an octothorpe (#) for the letter H
Furthermore, the letter O is easiest when replaced by an * An A is @ (although on the computer, it looks alot like an O, thereby making it interchangeable.
lastly, I's allthough rarely used seem to be best replaced by a "!"
With all this in mind the guy who broke into your boat was a $OBMF!ng a$$#*L3. But that is just my preferences.
As for your hatchboards. try this guy; he had some a while ago...
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.