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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
 General Sailing Forum
 help needed on Coronado 15 project
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JimB517
Past Commodore

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USA
3285 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/13/2006 :  09:44:41  Show Profile  Visit JimB517's Homepage
here are the blades from my Coronado 15. The 35 year old fiberglass was cracked and missing in places. It peeled off in huge sheets. What to do now?



Click here to see a few other photos

http://www.indiscipline.org/cat25/mods/mods.html

Could I just coat them with some type of epoxy? Don't really want to mess with fiberglass but I will if I have to.


Indiscipline 1978 FK SR #398

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Ericson33
Admiral

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USA
892 Posts

Response Posted - 02/13/2006 :  11:31:45  Show Profile  Visit Ericson33's Homepage
Well I would say that there are two ways of Fixing the problem, #1 Sand all of the glass off of the rudders and the centerboard, be carfull not to get into the wood. After all of the glass is gone I would lightly sand the boards, the apply several coats of sealer to the boards (just like finishing your tiller or other teak. You will need to do this per year. Because the boards are not in the water all of the time you should be ok.

#2 The reason for the glass to be comming off in sheets is that the glass and resin is delaminating. Water has most likley been the problem but by the photos it looks like there is not rot. Sand and scape all of the glass off of the wood boards. Go and get some epoxy resin, or polyester. Also pick up some glass cloth and mat. Do one side at a time. Apply a layer of resin, then glass cloth, mat cloth. Only do three layers at a time, any more and you will cook the resin to hot and you will have to do it again. Get a resin roller to get out all of the air bubbles. I would apply 6 layers each side, and over lap the edges last. After the glass has been layed, sand the boards and resin with some 220 grit sandpaper, Then you want to fair the boards with a epoxy resin and microballons. This will give you a nice and smooth surface to paint on. A trick would be to use a can of black laquare(sp) lightly mist on the boards, and using a sanding board, nothing electric, The thing is, if you use a long board to sand, you will see all of the high spots of laquare come off and the low spots will still be black, Fill the low spots and re sand. Apply a good paint to the finished boards and you are done. Want faster Sand the boards down with 600 wet and dry and have no paint. Faster, Find a cliff----Just joking:) The process will take you about a day of two 8 hrs per visit. Once you start laying the glass you will get a hold of it really fast. Wear goggles and a facemask type breathing system. The resin sucks to breath, and it gives you the worse head aches. Also remember you will need your working place to be 65 deg. at the lowest temp. 70 would be better. And very last but should be the first thing said. Don't get the glass too thick that the center board will not fit into the boat.

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 02/13/2006 :  12:09:53  Show Profile  Visit Frank Hopper's Homepage
You know how some people have Vo-Techs work on their cars? I think you should find a Scout troup that wants to earn some badges and have them bring the boat back when it is perfect. It looks like easy stuff but you are a very busy guy.

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JimB517
Past Commodore

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USA
3285 Posts

Response Posted - 02/14/2006 :  13:47:39  Show Profile  Visit JimB517's Homepage
as you can see the homemade kickup rudder never had any fiberglass and was just varnished. It looks OK. I'll probably use this boat twice per year and maybe drag the trailer down to Mexico for beach launching and sailing/fishing in the sea of Cortez. Or maybe I'll just sell this Spring, probably for a loss (buy boat and trailer for $450, put 200 hours and $500 into repairs, sell for $500).

I don't want to do all that fiberglass work. I'll either just sand and varnish, or I was hoping there was some thin epoxy I could just paint on.

The blades actually have very fine edges. Some places these are cracked or deformed. I'd like to beef these areas up. Anyone know of a thin epoxy that would make the blades waterproof and strengthen the edges?

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Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 02/14/2006 :  14:17:54  Show Profile
White Interlux Topside Paint - absolutely my favorite boat remediation product.

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 02/14/2006 :  14:24:33  Show Profile  Visit Frank Hopper's Homepage
Put oarlocks on it.

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JimB517
Past Commodore

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USA
3285 Posts

Response Posted - 02/22/2006 :  11:26:44  Show Profile  Visit JimB517's Homepage
I decided to glass the blades. I have one layer of glass on the centerboard and rudder. I faired with Bondo prior to glassing. It was a stinky, messy job but not too hard wearing gloves. I plan to put a 3 inch strip over each edge, then another layer of glass over the blade surfaces. Then I'll put a 3rd layer over everything. I did the work in my garage for the first layer but it was too smelly, so I moved the whole operation out onto the driveway after the rain stopped. Seems it will be real strong.

How would you fair the final surface?

Would you use Gelcoat or what to finish the outside?


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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 02/22/2006 :  12:00:09  Show Profile  Visit Frank Hopper's Homepage
I don't see that the finish material makes much difference. By the time you sand with 400 -600 you will be super slick. You could even paint with VC 17 and burnish it. It will scare you how slick it will be.

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