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Vert Glass Time

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/08/2006 : 18:47:00

It was twilight when I finished so this phot is not very dramatic, I will try to get one in sunlight soon, the weather man says it may be a while.

Edited by - on

Tom Potter
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1913 Posts

Response Posted - 03/08/2006 : 18:50:58

Hey Frank, I thought you had a 89 model... looks new to me!

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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5904 Posts

Response Posted - 03/08/2006 : 18:58:39

That's pure magic!

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OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3469 Posts

Response Posted - 03/08/2006 : 19:06:30

Frank - It looks great !

I'm not quite up to that stage yet. My work this past week was completing the interior wood treatment with Howard's Restore-A-Finish and finishing it off with their other product Feed-N-Wax. Then past day or two, I have sanded down my exterior teak and getting ready for applying 3 coats of Cetol Light, Today, I cleaned off the sanded down exterior teak and replaced my non-working marine clock with a Weems&Plath Atomic Clock - adjusts exact time by radio frequency from somewhere...think Colorado. (I have a mini-weather/clock digital atomic clock at home and it's great...so I decided to buy the Marine version w/hour/min/sec hands for the boat.)

Edited by - on

southern cross
Navigator

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USA
123 Posts

Response Posted - 03/08/2006 : 19:38:04

Frank-
She looks unbelievable. I had my 82 buffed and waxed in november and the difference was unreal, but I would love to get it to your level. What did you do exactly. I really need to do this, I have plenty of good gelcoat and could probably get that level of shine with a wet sanding, buff and wax. Is that what you did?

Puravida,
Zach

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 03/08/2006 : 20:07:13

What you see was very little effort at all. I use a product called VertGlass. It is essentially MopnGlow. This is the second boat I have done this to. I use SoftScrub to de-oxidize the hull, that only needs to be done once. After that you wipe the product on, I spent two hours to put 5 coats on. It is very little effort. I will put an additional couple coats on each spring from now on.
This is my 82...

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 03/08/2006 : 22:22:37

Congrats, Frank--you'll be glad you did it when the boat looks pretty much like that next Fall and Spring!

I did the same thing with Poli Glow--probably just about the same material--three seasons ago, and will re-do it this Spring (although most of the hull still has a pretty good shine). From a friend with a C-30, I got the advice not to add too much for too many years--it eventually builds up to a discolored mess that is difficult to remove. So I'm cleaning the old job off this year and redoing it. As Frank says, it takes just a few hours to put on 4-5 coats--the first one almost disappears, the next few look very streaky, and the fourth looks about like those pictures. No buffing involved. Just be sure to remove all marks and stains beforehand, or it'll make them immortal!

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southern cross
Navigator

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USA
123 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2006 : 09:06:59

Guys-
I ahd my boat waxed a few months ago, is it OK to apply over a fairly fresh waxed hull? Also, is there any technique involved? Do you just wipe on a few applications unitl the desired shine appears, or do you apply and wipe off (like waxing) until you get the shine?
I have got to do this, but a little eloboration on the technique would be helpful

Puravida,
Zach

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2006 : 10:24:08

Just like mop n glow, no buffing, just wipe it on. As for putting it over wax... I don't know. I will read the instructions and let you know. There are probably 20 people at our club that use this product and everyone loves it. The only issue I have seen relates to vinyl names. You will notice I put the name on first, on a cleaned bare hull. One guy last year put his name over a fresh coat of Poly Glow (same as Vert Glass) and the letters fell off over the summer. He went from Predator II to Ped I.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2006 : 12:32:46

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by southern cross
 Guys-
I ahd my boat waxed a few months ago, is it OK to apply over a fairly fresh waxed hull? Also, is there any technique involved? Do you just wipe on a few applications unitl the desired shine appears, or do you apply and wipe off (like waxing) until you get the shine?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I can't imagine that you can put it on over wax. Both companies (Vert and Poly) sell kits that include cleaners for getting down to bare gelcoat. From there, the application is as Frank says--wipe on a thin coat with their chamois-like applicator, wait a few minutes, repeat, and repeat a few more times--no other wiping or rubbing involved.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 03/09/2006 12:33:32

JJM
Navigator

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USA
170 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2006 : 12:47:17

Wow! Very nice! Frank - do you know if this product can be applied over the non-skid areas, or is it too slick?

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Kip C
Navigator

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USA
243 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2006 : 13:57:52

Frank, the boat looks great! How does cleaners and such effect the vertglas over the season? With wax, I get ugly dirt/rain water streaks where the water runs off the sides. Do you get those? Once again, looks great!

Edited by - on

Charlie Vick
Captain

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USA
423 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2006 : 14:01:54

Damn Frank, you always have the best looking bottom!

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Justin
Admiral

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502 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2006 : 14:13:48

I agree, looks great, like new! Do you know if this can be used on a painted hull?

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2006 : 14:35:27

It is sold as a gelcoat restoration product. You can contact lovettmarine.com and ask. For our boats the strength of the product lies in its ability to bring back color and add shine. As for streaks, I have never seen any except where a friend let teak cleaner drizzle down the side, I think it would mess up about anything.
I would not put it on nonskid for the simple reason that decks should be matt finish. I always use softscrub on my decks. I shiney deck will fry and blind you.
Every year there is a discussion about the relative merits of these products versus the masochistic use of waxes. If waxing is part of your personal therapy then go for it, if waxing is done by half naked girls then go for it, but if waxing is something you dread then there is no need for it. Any subtle differences between the end results do not warrant the labor involved in waxing.

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2006 : 14:49:32

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by fhopper@mac.com
 Any subtle differences between the end results do not warrant the labor involved in waxing.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
...and the differences aren't so subtle by the end of the year when the wax has all but disappeared and the polymer finish is still looking good!

Regarding decks: I'm thinking about using Poly Glow on the bulkhead, cabin sides, seat sides, and coaming sides--in other words, the non-nonskid areas. As for the nonskid, I'm thinking that a single coat might seal it enough to make it easier to clean, but not make it too slippery or increase glare. I might try that theory somewhere like the companionway hatch--I try to never step on that anyway. Besides, new boats have shiny gelcoat.

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