Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Checked my dome light over the quarter berth and again it is filled with water and rusted my toggle switch. I realize I need to fix leaks above (winch, compass, etc.) but I'm thinking I may seal up all the overhead holes and mount a reading light on cockpit wall of the berth versus above. Has anyone tried this and been satisfied? I'm also thinking about using a small panel of 36 LED's http://www.superbrightleds.com/other_bulbs.htm to reduce battery draw but I've read they need at least two squares ($15 each) to achieve the same lumens. Comments on switching to LED's would be appreciated too? Ron
I relocated my quarter-berth light to that spot under the stbd coaming between the two access panels. The light distribution from there is better than the original location. By fishing allthe way forward in that coaming, you might be able to find the original wires, and splice onto them.
Since I was completely rewiring the boat, I ran new wires, and installed a 2-way switch at each end of the quarter-berth. (Mister Overkill strikes again!)
If you want to remain in stock configuration the fix will be repairing the leaks at the bulkhead/hardware mounting. You will be surprised at how much water will find channels into your inner plywood material and eventually rot it away. I did the "drill holes in the cockpit" floor method and fill with gallons of epoxy (after thouroughly allowing to dry for a couple of days using floodlamps) and the same for the bulkhead mounted hardware. The results were dramatic. No spongy cockpit, no more water anywhere, and good electricals. I ended up re-bedding all the deck hardware including the stanchions. Otherwise your just going to be constantly moving around the leaks.....and repairing the results.
Ron, We are replacing the lights on "Leprechaun" with LED's and we just bought 3 of them from www.lostbwana.com they are red/white and cost approx.$21.00 each with no Tax.. to replace the lights in the V berth, over the vanity sink and over the Ice Box. The one over the 1/4 bert we replaced with an LED last year. Made a big difference in power consumption.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Leon Sisson</i> <br />Ron,
I relocated my quarter-berth light to that spot under the stbd coaming between the two access panels. The light distribution from there is better than the original location. By fishing allthe way forward in that coaming, you might be able to find the original wires, and splice onto them.
Since I was completely rewiring the boat, I ran new wires, and installed a 2-way switch at each end of the quarter-berth. (Mister Overkill strikes again!)
-- Leon Sisson <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
<font size="2"> <font face="Comic Sans MS"> Leon, Just the person to help. Would this unit retro fit into the existing fixtures? It seems to me that they would be better than the fixed bayonet ones because they would shine light down instead of off to the side and just lay face down in the plastic square lenses we already have. They are from the wb site Ron provided above. Any thoughts?
Go ahead click on the bird. </font id="size2"> </font id="Comic Sans MS">
John G<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Would this (LED) unit retro fit into the existing fixtures?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">Well, if by "existing fixtures" you mean the original equipment plastic camping trailer interior lights (in my 1979 C-25), I couldn't tell you for sure, since I replaced all mine. However, I think the idea has great promise. It's a bit hard to tell from the drawing, but I suspect the suports for the 1-1/2" LED PWB are flexible enough to accomodate most lense/reflector designs. Keep in mind, if the original bulb was a typical 25w incandecent, there's got to be enough clearance around it to keep it from overheating the (plastic) fixture and setting it on fire.
In most boat cabin light applications, all we really need (for more than a few seconds at a time) is enough light to see where we're going, and to keep from bumping into things. For that, a 25w incandecent is power hungry overkill.
Here's what I did. I installed an 8w white/red florecent over the dinette for eating and reading (particularly charts). Over the galley I installed a 10w/20w dual bulb halogen fixture with high/low switch. The rest of the cabin lights could probably be low power LEDs. What would be nice, is a two-way light fixture with maybe red LEDs and a white 10w halogen bulb or 8w florecent tube.
Found bayonet LEDs at WalMart for $7.00 but minor problem. The lamp won't fit in the overhead fixtures (the fixtures built in reflector is less diameter than the wider lamp glass(plastic). Oh! and the led I found was red! (duh! that's what the litte red dot on the lamp meant! )
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.