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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I'm planning on installing an electric bilge pump tonight. If I got into a leak problem single handed it could buy me enough time to find and fix the leak. I wouldn't have time to pump. I want to put the pump in the keel well.
(1) can a 3/4 stiff hose be routed from the keel well to the lazerette on a 1978?
(2) can wires be routed from the keel well to the lazerette?
If not, I'll install the pump in the lazerette just under the electrical panel (much easier job).
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by JimB517</i> <br />(1) can a 3/4 stiff hose be routed from the keel well to the lazerette on a 1978?
(2) can wires be routed from the keel well to the lazerette?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
On my 80', the manual pump hose runs from the keel to the port lazarette so I guess you could use the same general route for a new pump.
The wires to operate your new pump could follow the hose into the lazarette for connection to your electric panel.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by fhopper@mac.com</i> <br />Don, is that 80' or '80? I want an 80'! <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by JimB517</i> <br />I'm planning on installing an electric bilge pump tonight. If I got into a leak problem single handed it could buy me enough time to find and fix the leak. I wouldn't have time to pump. I want to put the pump in the keel well. (1) can a 3/4 stiff hose be routed from the keel well to the lazerette on a 1978? (2) can wires be routed from the keel well to the lazerette? If not, I'll install the pump in the lazerette just under the electrical panel (much easier job).<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> I put the bilge pump and switch in the keel well on Antares, Jim. I'm not sure about the differences in design, but the job wasn't too terrible. The '85/'86 battery compartment is under the starboard settee, so I just drilled a hole and wired directly to the battery from underneath.
From the pump, I ran 1/2" or 3/4" flexible hose aft through a 1" hole that I drilled in the crossmember separating the keel well from the quarterberth bilge, and then through another 1" hole that I drilled in the fiberglass panel separating the quarterberth bilge from the port lazerette. From there I took the hose up to the back side of the manual bilge pump and tee'd it into the down and aft sloping section of the existing hose.
Worked like a charm, except that huge boat wakes (indicative of high following seas) caused incoming water to flood the bilge last summer. So, I'd highly recommend the addition of a check valve or, preferably because of the possibility for a clogged line, a through hole cover flap.
<font color="blue">... From there I took the hose up to the back side of the manual bilge pump and tee'd it into the down and aft sloping section of the existing hose ... Worked like a charm, except that huge boat wakes (indicative of high following seas) caused incoming water to flood the bilge last summer. So, I'd highly recommend the addition of a check valve or, preferably because of the possibility for a clogged line, a through hole cover flap. - J.B.</font id="blue">
I'm wondering ... if there's room above the discharge hose, would it work better to T into that hose from the top instead of the bottom? 'Seems like you'd get less of that "wake" water in the bilge if it had to travel "uphill" before it went down into the bilge ...
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Buzz Maring</i> <br /><font color="blue">... From there I took the hose up to the back side of the manual bilge pump and tee'd it into the down and aft sloping section of the existing hose ... Worked like a charm, except that huge boat wakes (indicative of high following seas) caused incoming water to flood the bilge last summer. So, I'd highly recommend the addition of a check valve or, preferably because of the possibility for a clogged line, a through hole cover flap. - J.B.</font id="blue">
I'm wondering ... if there's room above the discharge hose, would it work better to T into that hose from the top instead of the bottom? 'Seems like you'd get less of that "wake" water in the bilge if it had to travel "uphill" before it went down into the bilge ... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> My bad description, Buzz. I did exactly as you described. The new hose runs up between the lazerette wall and the manual bilge pump hose forward of the manual bilge pump. It makes a fairly good curve up and over the manual bilge pump and then tee's into the top of the discharge hose aft of the manual bilge pump.
For all I know, the incoming water may have traveled through the manual bilge pump line, as it would be the path of least resistance. However, it was truly a unique situation given that the boat is on a lake. It was on a holiday weekend, and at the time I was hanging off the last rung of the ladder surfing the swells behind the boat. (No, I wasn't under way...although I'll admit to having done that when there isn't any traffic. And, yes, I always towed a good length of floating safety line with a spare fender attached.)
Yes, I'm planning to tee into the manual pump line, aft of the pump and on the downhill side but 1 foot above the throughhull at least. I've incorporated an anti backflow valve into the design to prevent me from using the manual pump someday and simply pumping back down to the electric pump in a big circle. Should also prevent water backing up through the line due to following seas or wakes.
Mainly want to know if I can route the hose and wires, sounds like a yes.
Jim: I just visited Lowes last night to buy the Wye (1 1/2 inch plastic pipe) to join the new electic bilge pump hose (3/4 inch ID) to the manual pipe (1 inch ID)using reducers to connect all the pipes to this Wye junction in the exact location you describe. Where did you find and what type of check valve did you get? BTW I'm going to use the 500 gph Rule and purchased the lighted switch to go with it. Ron
Jim; I redid my electric bilge pump in my '82 (wing keel, formerly fin keel) last winter. The pump and wiring were there in the keel bilge, but the switches ( manual and automatic) were junk and the hoses were disconected. The manual bilge pump is mounted in the port cockpit wall and the hose came up from the keel bilge, into the lazeret, up to the manual bilge and down to the thru-hull fitting. Since it was on the hard at the time, I pulled the pump and checked it out. The automatic feature had a current leak, so I'm not currently using it. I rewired and reswitched it, and ran the wires along the bilge hose from the switch panel. As for the hose routing, I connected the electric pump to the existing intake hose from the manual, guzzler type pump in the cockpit. The electric pump will pump through the manual with no problem or apparent drop in efficiency. Also, the manual pump in the cockpit still draws through the electric even if it isn't turned on. This does two things: 1) it saves putting a Tee in the line ( more hoses and fittings in the lazerett) or installing a second thru-hull. 2) the manual pump is mounted higher than the thru-hull and it already has a check valve in it, so "back wash" form the thru-hull is a non-issue. We used both the electric and manual several times last year, with no problems. Both worked fine, and no additional drilling or hoses were required.
I still carry a manual pump with a long hose but I did right from the start installed an electric bilge pump and used the recommended hose which is 1" and installed the discharge fitting as high as I could at the stern. The 79 didn't come with a manual pump so no other hose to connect. The larger hose gives the pump a chance to reach it's max, in their own specs. Wired the unit with a fused panel with a light and override and auto position (I check sometimes before leaving dock that the pump is working and especially at the begining of the season). I was told that a frighten man with a bucket can outdo any pump but for how long when alone. Hope you never have to need it, sounds like insurance. This note is after dark in SD so hope you have a light.
Make sure your electric Bilge pump has a one way seacock somewhere in there....Beside the fact your pumping a long way too, tieing it into the other pump might have you pumping water right back into the other bilge pump in both instances.
Paul, I wish I had your advice before I cut my line and created a Rube Goldberg tee fitting with backflow preventers. I may do what you suggest anyhow. Thanks
Let me tell you its not easy to get a hose from the lazerette to the keel well in a 1978 pedestal table interior. There is a path into the well that doesn't involve drilling holes but you have to run the hose from the forward floor of the lazerette through the quarterberth bulkhead (I used a hole that was there for the air circulation hoses) into the bilge under the ladder. Then pull out drawers and run the hose all the way forward on the port side to the locker under the main chain plate bulkhead and then back down into the keel well.
The manual hose goes through a hole drilled between the port locker and the keel well. I may have to drill as well. 12 feet of hose is not enough for the route I found.
Very tempted to try the idea of pumping both manual and electric through the same hose (electric pumping right through the manual pump).
The project is almost done without drilling holes but with buying more hose. I have to put some 90 degree elbows in tonight to get the hose out of the keel well without kinking.
This is now a 3 day, $150 project. At that price I wish I had bought the larger pump - I only got the 500 gph model.
I may put a manually switched booster pump in line to increase flow (I have a old bait tank pump laying around).
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.