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Interlux Interprotect 2000E epoxy water barrier

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/28/2002 : 03:55:13

I'm sanding below the waterline for the first time in 5 years in preparation for applying new VC 17m (also 5 years old.) MAN, IS THIS EPOXY EVER HARD STUFF! I started out with 80 grit and had to settle for 36 grit (using an oscillating sander.)
Once I started sanding I realized just how deep the dimpling was from applying the epoxy with a roller. Of course, always looking to eek out another nanoknot, I'm sanding the 2000 until it's completely smooth. Talk about drudgery <img src=icon_smile_dead.gif border=0 align=middle> !

Steve Madsen
#2428
OJ (Ode to Joy)

Edited by - on

Douglas
Master Marine Consultant

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1595 Posts

Response Posted - 05/28/2002 : 17:23:39

My thoughts and best wishes are with you. I did and entire bottom job this past winter. Good thing I had several months to get the job done. I had to rig a cart to lay on and slide around under the boat. My arms felt alot better working from my back than bending or standing. I also replaced the to hulls. I put a two part epoxy on and a new bottom coat. There are lots of pictures under the title bottom rework but I cant remember if I posted under general or C-25

Doug&Ruth
Wind Lass
Tacoma Wa.

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 05/31/2002 : 12:11:26

Douglas, I appreciated your suggestion about employing a cart while sanding the bottom of the hull. If I don't apply enough pressure to the sander, it won't cut the 2000E effectively. Placing a mechanic's creeper on top of a couple pieces of scrap 6X6s gives me perfect leverage.
Thanks dude!
Now I'm wondering how America's Cup boat builders measure surface tension to achieve optimal laminar flow <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> !
Thru-hulls go in this weekend - photos to follow!

Steve Madsen
#2428
OJ(Ode to Joy)

[url="http://catalina25-250.org/photo0.htm/"]<img src="http://www.catalina25-250.org/photo/ode075.jpg" border=0>[/url]

Edited by - OJ on 05/31/2002 12:18:51

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 05/31/2002 : 21:22:45

Whew! I hope you guys on your mechanic's carts are well shielded--plastic coveralls, hoods, masks, goggles,... My bottom job will be next Fall/Spring starting with a peel-away stripper and finishing with sanding as necessary. It helps that my fin keel boat will be high on poppits--I'll be able to do most of the job standing up. <img src=icon_smile_approve.gif border=0 align=middle>

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette "Passage" in SW CT

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tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts

Response Posted - 06/01/2002 : 09:15:33

Hi all,

I hurt just reading of your travail. When I removed my bottom I opted for a blasted finish followed by the interlux barrier coats and Micron csc. It recently became necessary to remove the last coat of Micron--problem with it bonding. While mindful of Daves or Dougs admonition to take care when sanding this paint I used a wall board sander with a hose tied to the top to wet sand. It helped to control the dust and added to the efficiency of the grits cutting.

Val on "CALISTA" #3936

Val Bisagni

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Buzz Maring
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1775 Posts

Response Posted - 06/01/2002 : 10:27:14

Hi Steve,

I just did the bottom on my boat, too ... what a job ... it took twice as long as I expected, and it hurt about four times as much as I expected. My boat and trailer are on a slight incline that is covered with rocks ... the mechanic's creeper wasn't an option. I got cut and bruised at least once by every sharp thing protruding from that #&&**!! trailer, and I felt like I had been in two-a-day football practice at the end of every day.

Anyway, another idea to cut down on the dust ... if you have a sander with a built-in dust vacuum, remove the dust hopper or bag and duct tape a shop vac to your sander. I did that on my orbital sander ... it wasn't that much harder to maneuver, and it sure cut down on all that toxic dust flying around.

'Hope you "sail" through the project ... good luck!

Buzz Maring, C-25 SK/SR #68, "Freya"

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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 06/02/2002 : 20:37:39

Doug & Steve's suggestion of the mechanic's creeper reminded me of what I used. I needed to work on the broad flat bottom surface while the boat was on a trailer parked on concrete. I put two plastic recycle bins (like large milk crates) on top of a mechanic's creeper, and then a maybe 2'x5' piece of scrap plywood over those, topped off with a layer or two of old carpet. Turning the rectangular crates various ways and shimming the plywood with 4x4 scraps allowed me to adjust the overall height of the rolling work stand. It was a lot more comfortable than either bending over and reaching under the boat, or squirming around on my back on concrete trying to stretch my arms high enough to touch the hull.

-- Leon Sisson

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MarkTM
Navigator

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USA
178 Posts

Response Posted - 06/02/2002 : 23:09:50

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
I'm sanding below the waterline for the first time in 5 years in preparation for applying new VC 17m (also 5 years old.)
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

Steve,

Does this mean that your boat was previously painted with VC-17? If so, you shouldn't have to do any sanding. VC-17 redissolves when one or more new coats are applied. You merely need to power wash the bottom prior applying the new coats. That's the joy of VC-17! Maybe I misunderstood what you were saying.

Mark Melchior
C250wb "Lorelei" #384
[url="http://www.texassailor.com/"]<img src="http://www.texassailor.com/texas.gif " border=0>[/url]
(click flag to visit Central Texas Sailor)

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 06/03/2002 : 09:21:17

Funny you should mention the recycling bin Leon - I placed the mechanics creeper on top of one over the weekend while sanding the tail section of the hull - got a lot funny looks from the neighbors though, but that's nothing new.
Mark, I agree and that was the original goal. Problem is I applied the 2000E so heavy (to achieve the 10 mils) that I ended up with pretty coarse stipling. So coarse that lake slim would permanently attach itself to the lower portions of the stipling. This coarseness also defeated, to some the degree, the purpose of applying something as smooth as VC17m. So, I'm sanding the bottom to smooth out the surface to achieve another nanoknot or two and keep lake slim from attaching to the stipling. Next time, the goal will will be to do as you described. Actually, I lost more VC17m from power washing than anything else!

Edited by - on

MarkTM
Navigator

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USA
178 Posts

Response Posted - 06/03/2002 : 10:23:48

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Actually, I lost more VC17m from power washing than anything else!
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

Although my marina's yard powerwashes, I just use a normal hose with a hose-end sprayer. Gets the slime off without removing any noticeable amount of paint. I try to pull the boat out on its trailer at least once a year to remove the slime and touch up the paint where needed . . . usually another coat around the waterline and minor touch-ups elsewhere. I give the paint 30 minutes and then splash the boat. My bottom still looks new after four years using this technique.

Mark Melchior
C250wb "Lorelei" #384
[url="http://www.texassailor.com/"]<img src="http://www.texassailor.com/texas.gif " border=0>[/url]
(click flag to visit Central Texas Sailor)

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 06/03/2002 : 11:11:40

Exactly

Edited by - on

Douglas
Master Marine Consultant

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1595 Posts

Response Posted - 06/03/2002 : 12:12:52

On the subject of dust collection. I used a 5 hp shop vac with canister type internal filter. As well as the canister filter I also installed the internal hepa filter bag so that I had two filters. I did tape my vac to the dust collection nozel of the sander. I used a makita 8 hole orbital. I used 80 grit paper and was very carefull not to stay on one area long enough to get into the glass. When I pulled the hepa filter to change it (Twice) It was heavy and full of bottom paint. I did wear personal protection gear and a resperator.

Doug&Ruth
Wind Lass
Tacoma Wa.

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 10/31/2002 : 12:24:54

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Actually, I lost more VC17m from power washing than anything else!
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

Although my marina's yard powerwashes, I just use a normal hose with a hose-end sprayer. Gets the slime off without removing any noticeable amount of paint.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

Mark, you're right. After smoothing out the Interlux 2000 water barrier this spring - I reapplied the VC17m. I rinsed the bottom on Tuesday with only the pressure provided by a garden hose and sprayer head. Very clean and no paint running across the parking lot <img src=icon_smile_approve.gif border=0 align=middle> !

Edited by - on

jellyfish
Navigator

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USA
171 Posts

Response Posted - 10/31/2002 : 14:02:23

my hat off to you guys! there is no way I would tackle that job. the boat yards around here charge $450 for a new bottom job including the haul out. that usually last 3 years so for $150 a year they can have it!

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 10/31/2002 : 15:40:08

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
my hat off to you guys! there is no way I would tackle that job.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

Dan, you've heard the phrase "no rest for the wicked"? Well, I never rest . . .

Steve Madsen
#2428
OJ (<img src=icon_smile_evil.gif border=0 align=middle>de to Joy)

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