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Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Standing Rigging Dimensions

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mfasis
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114 Posts

Initially Posted - 06/07/2006 : 16:06:26

So, this year I made a lot of big purchases for the boat. One of being all new standing rigging. I bought from Catalina Direct for several reasons:

* I really like the service they provide and I want to do my part to ensure that they stay in business.
* Their prices seem very fair.
* You cant beat their customer service
* I figured that I would be able to identify the model and year of my boat (and the fact that it is a standard rig with a split backstay) and they would be able to send me what I need.

The main reason that I wanted to replace the rigging was that I suspected that it was original to the boat and the forestay was kinked at the top. I figured I would replace it all at once and have one less thing to worry about.

So the day arrived when I was to step the mast. I assembled the crew and up it went with no problem. I armed myself with a print out of Bill Holcomb's Mast Tuning Guide and went to work. That is when I ran into a little problem.

When I tried to dial in rake, I discovered that there seemed to be too much length in either the forestay or the backstay. I had trouble achieving what I felt was proper tension. I have a Hood furler that was previously installed on the boat. With the furler you can only tighten the turnbuckle so much before the forestay becomes too short. Remember that the furler was previously installed and cut to length.

What I wound up doing was tightening the backstay so much that the turnbuckle is bottomed out. This gives me almost enough tension (although I would like it a tad tighter).

So I got on the phone with Catalina Direct Tech support (Lowel(sp?)) and found out where I went wrong. Somehow I missed the fact that when ordering a split backstay set up from them they want you to send them your existing backstay for use as a template. Evidently, most split backstays were added as an after thought and as a result there is no set lengths for the upper backstay and the bridels.

So..... He suggested that I consult with this august body to find the measurement from the masthead to the bow stem fitting. Once I have that figure I can compare that to what is on my boat. From that we can extrapolate how long the two new bridles they will make for me need to be.

The gist of all this is I need someone take this measurement for me.

Mark Britton
Huntington, NY
'82 C25 FK/SR #3202
"Good News"

Edited by - on

Happy D
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Response Posted - 06/07/2006 : 16:36:21

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Evidently, most split backstays were added as an after thought and as a result there is no set lengths for the upper backstay and the bridels.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

I don't know about them being an after thought. My hull number is 0029 and it has a split backstay.
I have the mast in the shop and all the rigging sitting in the boat at home. If you can wait till Friday, I'll measure all of it for you.
This parts list shows a forestay of 29' 10".
http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/manbro/pictures/pc17.gif
This says that backstay for a split backstay is 26' 4".
http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/manbro/pictures/pc18.gif
Does this help?
Dan

Edited by - Happy D on 06/07/2006 16:39:41

Brooke Willson
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983 Posts

Response Posted - 06/07/2006 : 17:11:14

Mark, when I replaced my rigging two years ago I ran into exactly the same problem as you. I didn't send them my backstay, either. So, to save time and expense, I made the split backstays (below the bridle) on my own using Sta-Lok fittings. They're pretty easy to use, they're reliable, and much less expensive than having the shrouds swaged. Once the mast is stepped and the upper and lower shrouds approximately right, you can measure the gap between your backstay and the chainplate eyes on the transom. Work backwards from there -- leaving the backstay assembly a little loose so you can tension it with the adjuster while sailing.

Brooke

Edited by - on

mfasis
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114 Posts

Response Posted - 06/08/2006 : 08:44:31

Thanks for the great replies.

Dan,
You are right. I probably mispoke when calling them an after thought. Lowel at Catalina Direct told me that they were not originally planned by the factory and that it wasn't until a lot of racers started installing them that Catalina made it an option. He also gave me the impression that the Catalina factory was not consistent in what lengths were used for the top piece or the two lower pieces. That sounded wierd to me.

Brooke,
I will definately consider making them myself. What did you use to cut the wire? Where did you buy the sta-lok fitings?

Mark

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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1893 Posts

Response Posted - 06/08/2006 : 10:14:14

I made up an entire set of rigging in my garage using Sta-Loks. The easiest and neatest way to cut rigging wire at home is with a hacksaw, but there's a trick to it.

Starting with a 6" to 8" scrap of 2x4, I drilled two holes through it in the 2" direction, each hole located near a corner of the scrap of wood. The diameter of one hole is a tight fit for the masthead rigging wire, the other fits the smaller lowers wire. I then made two hacksaw cuts, one through the middle of each of those corners, perpendicular to the two holes, and intersecting the hole. After marking the wire, I fed it through the appropriate hole, and cut it by sliding the hacksaw's blade into the sawcut groove while the wood was held in a bench vise. I hope all that came through clear.

The Sta-Lok terminals are easy to use. Follow the directions closely. Pay particular attention to getting the ends of the outer 12 strands slightly hooked inward on the tips, and evenly distributed around the cone, without any of them slipping into the cone's slot.

-- Leon Sisson

Edited by - on

mfasis
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114 Posts

Response Posted - 06/08/2006 : 11:51:27

Great idea Leon. Thanks. Let me ask you this, if you were making up all of the rigging yourself why not go with all the same wire size (the larger)?

Mark

Edited by - on

Brooke Willson
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983 Posts

Response Posted - 06/08/2006 : 13:15:25

Ditto to what Leon said. I think I used a mitre box and a hacksaw, and taped the wire in the box so it wouldn't move. Leon's jig is better.

I'm pretty sure I ordered the sta-lok parts from defender.com. That's a great alternative to West Marine/Boat US.

Brooke

Edited by - Brooke Willson on 06/08/2006 13:18:27

stampeder
Master Marine Consultant

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1608 Posts

Response Posted - 06/08/2006 : 16:41:07

What are the advantages of building your own standing rigging?

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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1893 Posts

Response Posted - 06/08/2006 : 21:31:39

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> What are the advantages of building your own standing rigging?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">Some of the reasons I built my own standing rigging were: to have better control over the quality of materials, to insure a precise fit, to allow for later end-for-end reversing (same general idea as rotating car tires), to add toggles, add a split backstay with turnbuckle and tensioner. I would include installing reusable terminals to reduce cost of future rigging replacement, but I expect the wire I selected to last a long time.

-- Leon Sisson

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.