Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I really should not have done this because I know better, but as I was building a new set of companionway doors I used some epoxy from my hardware store that was marked "Marine" and I knew that most store type epoxy is not good to use on a boat. There...I admit it I know better but I used the stuff anyway. now the beautiful carefully cut joints are coming apart exposed to the weather. the glue is letting go and the doors are coming apart. I'm going to have to take them apart and re do the whole thing with West system adhesives.
now my question is this, What makes an epoxy good or bad? The West epoxy I used to redo the backing plates for the new through hulls is bombproof and I wasn't going to use anything but the best below the water line. I guess I just didn't understand how really bad bad epoxy is.
behind schedule John V. Nin Bimash II 77 C25 sk/sr #153
What material did you make the companion way doors out of? I'm not an expert on epoxy per se, but I understand it doesn't hold up to sunlight . . . I really like West System products but I wouldn't use it on companion way doors. I would use a two part glue called Resourcinal (sp?), especially on teak.
I used West System slow cure epoxy when I built my Shellback dinghy. My understanding is that the slower the cure, the better. I believe the fast cure has voids, or tiny air pockets. It does break down over time when exposed to sunlight so it will need some sort of protective coat (varnish, etc) to protect it from the UV rays. And, of course a good clamp system until it totally cures.
Are you gluing? If so try gorilla glue which is a polyurethane glue that is indestructable. Although it expands as it cures you need to allow for that, it cures in moisture.
I've used the two-part Resourcinol and the Gorilla (polyurethane) glue on woodworking projects. The Resourcinol leaves a dark glue line at the seam (not a problem if the wood is dark). Both are strong. Both require tight clamping.
For teak wipe the joint surfaces with acetone to remove the natural oil and let dry for a few minutes just before gluing or the glue won't have anything to grip to.
I built the doors out of red oak. Teak was way over my budget. I have had good experiences with oak before so I thought it would be fine. I have used resourcinol but not for many years. I think I'll try a few test patches with the polyurethane. I will have to get by with the hatch as it is for now and re build it later in the summer.
Thanks for all your help.
John V. Nin Bimash II (it's ojibway, it means "I'm Sailing") 77 C25 sk/sr #153
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Nin Bimash II (it's ojibway, it means "I'm Sailing") <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
COOL! I've been wondering where you got that name John.
BTW, I've used Gorilla Glue, and it really does hold well ... read the instructions and you'll be OK. It is a bit expensive, and I was surprised to find out that it needs some water to activate and cure properly. Also, the tighter the clamps, the better the bond. Finally, it does expand and make a bit of a mess, but the residue isn't really a big problem to clean up.
My home cruising grounds are in the St. Mary's river and the North Channel of Lake Huron. Everything there is named in Ojibway. the Island I live on is called Neebish which means laughing or dancing waters or rapids.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.