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It Sure Feels Good! (Sorry for the length.)

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cat1951
Admiral

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USA
636 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/27/2006 : 08:21:12

In March of this year, we bought Antares from JB Manley (Treasurer) and while she was a turnkey sailboat, we brought along our own ideas of what we wanted to do. Here is some of what we have gone through since her purchase. Again, we didn't have to do any of this, but wanted to just the same. Also a big thanks goes out to JB who has continued to help us and to capri25 that made the furler project a success.

1. We replaced the old porta potti with a new electric flush Thetford.
2. Purchased a new VHF150 from West Marine on sale. (Still have to learn how to use it, but we have it now.

3. Installed window curtains that we had made and used my own design for installation. Also had 2 pillows made out of the same material.
4. Refinished the brigtwork except for the hand rails. That will come in time.
5. Installed cabin speakers for the CD Player. (with JB's help)
6. New Fire extinguisher. (Thanks to JB)
7. New Battery in the Smoke Alarm.
8. New Tiller Tamer. (The old one had a broken adjustment button.)
9. Purchased a cabin heater from West Marine for those chilly nights.
10. Refinished the companionway steps and put new skid pads on each step.
11. The traveler car was missing the top sheave. (JB had one that he gave to us..)
.......and last but not least, a new to us Harken furler. (Thanks to Capri 25 for selling his to me and including the sail and forestay)

The furler was, as one can imagine, the longest and toughest of all the projects. (Well maybe sanding the bright work is right up there too.) It took the longest for the following reasons.

We lowered the mast by using the main sheets and main halyard attached to the boom. I was on the main sheets JB and another boat owner at the marina kept everyting square as the mast came down. The plan was to replace the steaming light when the mast was down along with the masthead sheaves and install a windex. Of course nothing goes according to plan.
When we took the mast down, I replaced the steaming light, removed the old forstay and measured it against the new one. OOPS too long. Now this is after running a messenger line up the old forestay and estimating the left over distance to the masthead. We were only off by 4", and at least we were long and not short. In addition, when inspecting the anchor light, we found the top had a hole in it and it water had begun to corrode the fittings. So with the mast down we lashed it to the bow pulpit and replaced the masthead sheaves and tied off the boom vertically so it would stay in place. Then it was back to town and order a new masthead light and marine eye for the forestay.

Finally got all the parts and the forestay shortened the right distance and yesterday was the final push. I replaced the anchor light and it came on light and bright. Then it was the on to the windex. I do not know who the previous owners of this boat were, but they deserve a big THANKS! They had drilled and tapped the masthead for the windex so all I had to do was screw in the fitting and install the windex vane.

The last thing to do was raise the mast and retighten all of the shrouds, reinstall the backstay, and return the main halyard to the mainsail. It took all day, but that was in heat of almost 100 degrees and two swimming sessions to cool off

So as I left the marina last night there she sat, new furler, bimini back in place, forward in the slip (We had backed her in with the mast sticking out into the cove so it would not be in the way of people on the dock), and looking ready for the new furler sail.

Anyone that uses the C25 for a trailer sailor has my deepest respect when it comes to taking down and putting up the mast. It took 4 of us to raise the mast yesterday. Me on the mainsheet to raise, JB helping to steady the mast, the daughter of another boat owner helping to steady the boom, her mother and another boat owner keeping the furler from twisting and possibly bending.

Now it is on to having the headsail recut to the C25 size. It came off of a Capri, so it needs to be shortened. Once this is done and the sail installed, we are ready for the fall sailing where the temps are bearable.

Whew what a summer. Hot, still, and lots of work accomplished. Time to sit back and enjoy till the next round. And YES, there is a next round.

You know how it is don't you?

Mike
Grand Lake, OK
N.O. Catalina 25 #4849
In my opinion 75% of the earth is water for a reason. That's why I sail.

Edited by - cat1951 on 08/27/2006 08:27:38

djn
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1561 Posts

Response Posted - 08/27/2006 : 10:24:12

Hi Mike, sounds like you have fun doing it. How about some pics? Cheers.

Edited by - on

cat1951
Admiral

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USA
636 Posts

Response Posted - 08/27/2006 : 11:11:40

DJN - Probably will add some pics after I take some. I forgot my digital at home, but have been considering doing a technical tips article on the curtains. It isn't anything special, but when I was going to college, in the summer's I worked for a trailer and camper manufacturer. On the campers, we had curtains in the window in the portion that extends out over the truck's cab. We put in curtains that were attached at both the top and bottom so they would stay in place. That is similar to what I did in the cabin curtains.

The only problem I had, and it was minor was in making sure I did not drill through the top to the outside. After 16 holes (oops..that's 32 holes, 16 on each side, I am happy to report that only 1 time did that happen. And that was due to my hurrying a bit too fast. However, the drill bit was only 1/16" and it was easily fixed on the exterior. Can't even see it.

Edited by - cat1951 on 08/27/2006 11:16:07

djn
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1561 Posts

Response Posted - 08/27/2006 : 11:43:25

Hi Mike, I''ve not acctually drilled through the top but when I mounted my swing arm for my GPS, the screws spidered out four little bumps. I'd be concerned if this was a newer boat, but a 1977 is bound to have it's share of dings. Cheers.

Edited by - on

Ericson33
Admiral

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USA
892 Posts

Response Posted - 08/28/2006 : 16:33:35

When drilling into or thru fiberglass and gelcoat be sure to champher the hole out a little bit and you will not get the gelcoat cracking, or spidering.

Edited by - on

stampeder
Master Marine Consultant

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1608 Posts

Response Posted - 08/28/2006 : 16:42:07

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Capri25 Posted - 08/28/2006 : 16:33:35
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
When drilling into or thru fiberglass and gelcoat be sure to champher the hole out a little bit and you will not get the gelcoat cracking, or spidering. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

What is champher? Is that like a pilot hole?

Edited by - on

britinusa
Web Editor

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USA
5404 Posts

Response Posted - 08/28/2006 : 18:16:26

When referring to a hole it's known as a 'coutnersink' not the kind you put a faucet into

, but typically a 45degree bevel edge.

http://www.m-w.com/dictionary/chamfer

Paul.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 08/29/2006 : 10:01:30

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by britinusa
 When referring to a hole it's known as a 'coutnersink' not the kind you put a faucet into

, but typically a 45degree bevel edge.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
A little trick I learned for doing that: Use a larger bit, but run the drill in reverse. That prevents the bit from grabbing and drilling in further than you intended. It's also a good idea for bedding any thru-bolted hardware--it privides a little more room for the caulk right around the bolt.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 08/29/2006 10:04:12

Ericson33
Admiral

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USA
892 Posts

Response Posted - 08/29/2006 : 11:14:37

I just have been using a grinding bit that has a 45 deg bevel to it. I just open up the hole were the gelcoat is bonded to the fiberglass, about 1/8". you can also use a larger drill bit, but I have found that there is more control with a grinding bit.

Edited by - on

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