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I've got a new teak rail, and I want to glue plugs into the bolt holes. What kind of glue should I use? I've got this stuff that looks like airplane glue, and it's supposedly good for wood, but it's fragile and doesn't seem to work very well. I like gorilla glue for indoor applications, but I don't know if it's waterproof. Any ideas?
Bruce Baker Falls Church, VA "Yee Ha" 3573 '83SR/SK
Do you plan to finish the teak rail with Cetol or another type of varnish? If the plug is a tight fit, I think I'd be inclined to sand it flush, than varnish over it ... 'no glue at all ...
WOW I read that as Silver Back and my mind was suddenly filled with a visual of a really pissed of gorrilla glued to your hand rail. My problem with Gorrilla glue and teak is in my experience the foaming action can create issues and I was not able to close a split in one of my hatch boards with it even using crank furniture clamps, it is good glue. I would not glue teak plugs.
The new Titebond III is supposed to be waterproof. I used it to glue my new hatchboards together and so far (October, 2005) it is holding up fine. Now watch, after I said that. . .
Do you plan to finish the teak rail with Cetol or another type of varnish? If the plug is a tight fit, I think I'd be inclined to sand it flush, than varnish over it ... 'no glue at all ...
Articles I have read in Good Old Boat magazine give this same sort of advice. It seems the old masters of beautiful varnish work would "just use a dab of varnish to secure the plug."
Were I doing this, I probably wouldn't use any glue, the plug should be a taper fit, and will swell slightly when you varnish it, which should keep the plugs nice & snug in the bolt holes.
However if you decide to use Gorilla glue (one of my favorite glues these days)...
Gorilla glue is waterproof, and the foam is easily sanded once dry. Teak is oily, so I use acetone to remove the oils immediately before gluing it. Be careful of your decking when doing this, I'd just use a rag soaked in acetone wrapped around your fingertip to swap the inside of the bolt hole, and the outside of the plug. Be very sparing with the glue, as the foaming action can produce a very strong hydraulic force, and pop your plugs right out of the socket. Also, Gorilla glue requires water moisture to properly set up, so I'd daub some water on the plugs right after the acetone treatment, then a quick smear of the glue, just enough to very lightly coat the bases of the plugs, and tap them into the bolt holes. Be sure to wear gloves when you handle Gorilla glue or any other polyurethane glues, as they will stain your skin black, and it doesn't come off for about three weeks.
I found that a drop or two of gorilla glue goes a long way. What little expanded out was scraped off then then the area was sanded and more cetol applied. I also fixed some split areas with gorilla and clamps. Turned out nice.
However, if you mess something up and need to remove a plug again you're in for a bit of work. I'm with Buzz on this. When replacing plugs I'll go for a tight fit from now on and skip the glue.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.