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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I'm getting ready to put the boat into salt water for the first time this Friday, so I thought I'd make sure that the bearing buddies were topped off. I started pumping grease into them, expecting the springs to start compressing fairly quickly, but it took a while on all four of them, especially the back two. I put in close to 1-1/2 3oz tubes of grease between all four bearings. The right rear one finally "popped" out, squirting rusty water out onto the wheel. I got a similar pop on the left rear, but only clear water. Neither of the fronts showed any water, but both took a fair amount of grease to get the little blue cups to move out where they're supposed to be.
My question is, how much damage has possibly occurred with the bearings in such a state? I think I'm ok for the trip this weekend, but I know I've got a bearing packer in my future.
The other question I've got regarding them, is I've got 3 bearing buddies, and one Fulton (I think), is there any particular reason this might have been done? The Fulton is on the front left, and BB's on the other three.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
David C-250 Mainsheet Editor
Sirius Lepak 1997 C-250 WK TR #271 --Seattle area Port Captain --
As an optimist, I'd expect the worst. If you're going out on the hiway...maybe you should drive around the local tire shop (brake shop) a couple times just to see if things heat up. Last summer when I suspected a problem, I drove around and stopped every couple minutes to check tire and rim temperatures. I quickly found that I had one brake drum that was hot to the touch while the others were cool. I took it to a brake shop, they fixed the problem for under $100. I think that if I had simply headed onto the hiway it would have been a whole lot more expensive and time consuming and frustrating.
Hi David, You asked "how much damage has possibly occurred with the bearings in such a state?" I agree 100% with all the answers you've already gotten. I'm pretty optimistic and would certainly have the bearings inspected and packed. AND, check the brakes. These trailers sit around all year and the elements get to them.
I don't have a lot of experience with, what I call little trailers, but I have a great deal with the 20-53 foot varity. The indications you have are all reasons to have them check and/or replaced before you hit the road with your 8000 lb. boat. Water of any kind in your bearings is an indiction that you have blown inner or outer seals. So any grease you put in is going to come out quickly once it thins out from friction heat during towing. Rusty water indicates that you have either rusted/pitted bearings or races which cause a much faster heat buildup and possible burnout. You did not mention how far you had to move the boat before you launch in salt water, but if it is over 100 miles I would spend my money on a bearing job now rather than have to call a spindle doctor on the highway to repair a burnt spindle and bearings, if you are lucky. If not you could not only have the above, but also set a wheel on fire and the results could be catastrophic. This is one of those deals were the "pay now or pay me later" saying would diffently apply or how much of a gambler are you. I hate to be so much of a downer, but I have been involved in to many accident investigations involving wheel bearings and wheels comming off big rigs, that to me, pulling something down the highway with none bearing problems is stupid.
Jerry, Thanks for the response. I dragged the trailer up here from Bend OR in this condition when I bought it a couple of months ago, which is 360+ miles. I checked the bearings, tires and brakes a number of times on the way back, in short intervals at first then longer as I grew more confident of their relative heath, none grew hot to the touch, at least not more than you'd expect. Our drive to the Puget Sound this weekend is only about 20 freeway miles, and I'll deliberately go slower when on the freeway. I'll have one run of several miles before picking up a friend, so that'll give me an idea of how they're doing once at his house.
Once back from this trip I'll start looking into the process of jacking up the trailer to remove wheels so I can get to the bearings, as well as check out the brakes.
If that is all you are going to do over the long haul I would just make sure the bear buddies are full before I leave and return and not worry about a rebuilding project until the time comes when you will be moving the boat for a long distance. You want the buddies full of grease when you launch and recover the boat to prevent water intrusion. So before you launch top them off and you will be ready for the recovery and haul home. Have a great time on the water and just keep the bearings in mind when you travel.
AND... let the bearings cool before putting the trailer in the water. When a hot spindle goes into water and cools, cooling reduces volume and creates a low pressure inside and a positive pressure outside, the water gets pushed in.
Thanks for the help and encouragement. I'm not too worried about the bearings still being hot when I put in. It will take us at least two hours to prep the boat for launching, which should give them plenty of time to cool down. However, I will be bringing my grease gun with me to top them up before the launch. I don't want any salt water in there if I can help it.
I still haven't gotten any recommendations for a jack, is a hydraulic floor jack going to do it? I figure a 4 ton jack should do it, the boat & trailer are around 5700 pounds before loading "stuff" on board, so the 4k jack would give me around a ton of leeway.
Walmart sells some very economic hydraulic jacks, we carry a 4ton with a few pieces of 4x2 lumber. We have changed the wheel on the hard without issue, but if we should experience a double blow out, the jack would not do, but then we only carry one spare wheel. So then it would be eitehr AAA or BoatUS Trailer coverage.
Also check Harbor freight (the big boys toy store :)
I bought a double piston hydraulic jack from Northern tool. It has one piston inside the other for lots of lift. Of course I have a torsion bar axle so you can't lift it like you would a leaf spring trailer, therefore the extra lift was necessary. don't forget to get a set of wheel chocks while you are at it too. I'm constantly amazed by the folks who travel long distances without a spare tire. I was made fun of by one of our club racers for having a spare tire. (on my trailer, not my belly) He had a blowout going to races in Atlanta on a rainy sunday afternoon. He didn't give me any grief after that. as far as rusted bearings, I would replace them, and maybe the races in a machine shop too.
I have a 1.5 ton floor jack that I've used in my home garage for my pickup and my car. Its very fast, easy to work with etc. But it won't lift a trailer with a C25 on it. I think a 4 ton jack would do the job. A large block of wood to distribute the load between the jack and the trailer is a good idea.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.