Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
My '83 has a small, translucent plastic "skylight" over the V birth set in caulk on deck behind the anchor locker. My brother-in-law discovered how thin this plastic is, as he managed to put his foot through it yesterday. This seems a rather strange consruction, as it is certainly not suitable for walking on. Has anyone dealt with replacing this in a more "structurally sound" fashion while maintaining its daylighting function down below? The best thought I've had is to go w/ a much thicker section of acryllic, and route out the first 1/4" or so of the edges down to it's proper thickness, to in effect counter-sink the panel in it's hole.
1983 C25 FK/SR Finistere Garner Olympia WA ~/)~ ~~~
Back in the old days there used to be a cowling vent up there. The o'day's had them as well, but in the later years people put in the plastic discs to cover the hole and add light to the forepeak...and also keep things dry up that way.
It sounds like your method above will be more than sufficient.
The one on my '82 seemed fine. This topic comes up occasionally but not as often as it would if they were a disaster waiting to happen. I wonder if yours met with disaster and was improperly replaced with something inadequate. Anyway I would certainly replace it with something nice and strong and give that fix a chance as opposed to doing something major to "remove" the skylight. I could imagine adding a Stainless trim ring on the underside to reinforce it. As always take some photos to help others.
That thin lense is the original equipment from Catalina, and identical replacements are available from Catalina Direct. When I bought Passage, I replaced a broken one with CD's some years ago, but vowed that if I broke it, I'd make a 1/2" lexan lense with beveled sides on the top so it would fit flush around the sides. The original is sitting inside a cutout in the fiberglass and on top of the plywood core, which could be routed out a little more for a thicker lense. I agree--the original equipment is silly.
I got a 4" x 8" piece of plexiglass at Home Depot and silicone caulked it in place. It's clear, so it lets in more light, and it's bullet (or at least foot) proof. It probably cost about a dollar.
Lexan is much stronger than acrylic, but more easily scratched. I made a 22" square hatch from 1/4" lexan for my previous boat with nothing more than 1/2" support on the edges - I could stand stand on it.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Dave5041</i> <br />I made a 22" square hatch from 1/4" lexan for my previous boat with nothing more than 1/2" support on the edges - I could stand stand on it.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Agreed--1/4" lexan should be plenty strong--way, way stronger than the original plastic sheet.
I replaced mine by having a scrap piece of bronze-tinted laminated windshield glass cut to fit. The old thin plastic failed the first time it was stepped on directly.
Thanks everyone. I came across some free samples at work of some 1/8" thick poly resin material that is incredibly strong, as well as slightly flexible, rather than the brittle acryllics and plexiglass. I gave it the load test (stood on it) It should work great, and comes some fun colors and patterns. FYI:
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.