Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
We took JD out this weekend, Friday thru Tuesday, on Biscayne Bay. A couple of things from the trip.
I've mentioned the issues we had when retriveing the boat onto the trailer, how it seemed to balance on the bow bunk and then moves off the trailers bow rollers when the boat is pulled from the water. Well this weekend, it got worse! After pulling the boat up tight onto the trailer while JD is still in the water, and then started to pull her up the ramp. Crash!!!! A Stop everything Bang! Could not see any problems, but it sure was loud! Wondered if we had hit somethign underwater, of if the boat had crunched on one the hull bunks. After pulling the boat out all was well except one thing.. The bow bunk had dropped down! With the trailer now on level ground, and the boat winched up snug to the bow roller, there is a 2" gap between the bottom of the hull and the trailer bow bunk. I could tell this as I had put a mark around the bow bunk support beam and it is no longer visible as it is below the top of the beam support tube.
Obviously, the pressure on the bunk as the boat stops floating and with all the weight on the bunk, it's acting as a pivot, the two bolts that hold the bunk up (friction only) couldn't hold it. I'm guessing that the friction bolt tips are now blunt, allowing the bunk to slip down the extra couple of inches.
My current plan is to assume that the bow is now at it's ideal position on the trailer and to move the bunk up to contact the underside of the hull and then drill the beam holding the bunk in place so that the two bolts don't act as friction grips, but they would protrude into the beam.
Paul, Are your water tanks full when you drive up the ramp? I know you have the standard 12gal fresh water tank and an extra v-berth fresh water tank. Once, I had both tanks full and I thought the strap was going to break when it lifted the bow to get to the roller. Now I always empty both my tanks before loading on the trailer. I wonder if too much bow weight makes the pivoting problem worse.
Also, I winch the bow snug but not too tight. Once I leave the ramp, the bow is about 2 inches from the bow stop.
Russ, good points: yes, the fresh water tanks and the WB tank are full when pulling the boat out. However, the pivot problem was present before we had the 2nd fresh water tank and when we blew the ballast prior to putting the boat on the trailer.
Normally we snug up the bow to the rollers, but as you mention, the boat would then seem to roll back, but in fact I'm certain it actually rotates back about the pivot point of the bow bunk. I have a pic somewhere of the old position of the bow bunk, will take another when I raise it to it's new 'normal' position.
OK, now I understand. The bow is heavy with the full water tanks. The stern is light when you pressurize the ballast tank. When you start up the ramp the stern is off the trailer, then pivots on the bow roller. I can see how that puts a load on your bow roller.
I use the electric bilge pump to drain the water tanks, then open the ballast value and put it on the trailer. The ballast water just drains on the ramp. I'm thinking of installing a wash-down pump connected to the fresh water tanks. That way, I can empty the tanks and clean the deck at the same time.
I'm sorry I'm not much help regarding your trailer question. Russ #793
I looked at my TrailRite trailer and the Bow Roller is bolted through the frame. In the picture, you can see the U-Bolts around the horizontal tubing and through the vertical Bow Roller support. Your trailer must have a different setup.
I had the same problem with the bow bunk, as well as with the main bunks, although not as dramatically as you describe. I am using small galvanized U bolts and frame straps as a temporary measure. Measure the size of each support post, and buy an appropriately sized galvanized U bolt and matching frame strap (I got mine from Boater's World; I'm sorry I cant remember the exact sizes). Then, position the bunks appropriately, and attach the U bolts and straps tightly around the support post, (using fender washers and locking nuts) ABOVE the sleeve in which the support post slides. Do this in such a way that the frame strap rests on the upper end of the sleeve. This will create lots of extra friction, to assist the factory installed friction bolts.
I personally don't trust the friction bolts, but I'm also not ready to drill a hole in a weight bearing support without the blessings of the trailer manufacturer, or my local dealer. So far, so good.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.