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 Alcohol stove pump o-ring		  New Topic  Topic Locked
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monty0
1st Mate

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USA
51 Posts
Initially Posted - 03/16/2007 :  13:07:47  Show Profile
The o-ring in our alcohol stove is completely shot. Does anyone know if I can just go to the hardware store for one, or is it a special part that I would need to order?

Thanks,

Monty
Monty

1977 Catalina 25 #66 SRSK "Prana"
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aeckhart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1709 Posts
Response Posted - 03/19/2007 :  16:36:08  Show Profile  Visit aeckhart's Homepage
Monty,

Chances are you won't find an OEM part at the local hardware store. You might find a suitable replacement but............do you want to risk an accident with, if you still have it, the original Catalina "curtain burner". I'd go with OEM parts on the stove, using replacements as a last resort.
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tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts
Response Posted - 03/21/2007 :  11:14:08  Show Profile
Monty, I seem to remember that when I had this problem I went to Home Depot and in the plumbing department found a tiny package of twine impregnated with a black substance ( sorry senior moment can't remember its name), which one just wraps around the shaft of the valve and when it is tightened the material forms a seal. OH YEAH, GRAPHITE....DANG SPELLS PASS EVENTUALLY

Val on the hard DAGNABIT, # 3936, Patchogue, N.Y.
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tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts
Response Posted - 03/21/2007 :  11:28:44  Show Profile
Monty,

By the By, I have two ( please excuse the phrase,"curtain burners") stoves that I use in the green house and they haven't burned anything down yet, scorched an entree or two, but my fault not the stoves. Just be sure to use the pre heat practice first and all will be well. By preheat I mean filling the little indentation at the base of the heating element with fuel and lighting it with the valve turned O F F and when the fuel burns out open the valve and light it.

Should be O K.
Val on the hard DAGNABIT, #3936, Patchogue, N.Y.
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Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts
Response Posted - 03/21/2007 :  21:13:33  Show Profile
If it was me, I would use EPDM material o-rings for alcohol. You can get them at [url="http://www.mcmaster.com/"]McMaster Carr[/url] one piece at a time.
Dan
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tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts
Response Posted - 03/22/2007 :  11:37:33  Show Profile
I gave McMasters a look and found nothing that looks as though it is applicable to seal the shaft of the stove in question. Have you used their seals and if so specifically which one? Val
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tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts
Response Posted - 03/22/2007 :  11:44:28  Show Profile
Monty, There seems to be some confusion as to which seal you are talking about. I thought that you were talking about the shaft seal on the valve controlling fuel flow to the burner head. Is that the one you require?
Val on the hard DAGNABIT, #3936, Patchogue, N.Y.
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Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts
Response Posted - 03/23/2007 :  09:52:38  Show Profile
Your right Val, I'm confused also.
I made some assumptions. first I assumed it is an original Princess Stove. Second I assumed that Monty already had the stove apart and was looking for o-ring material. Third, I assumed it was indeed an oring. So here's what I came up with.
I took my stove apart and found a leather piston cup seal. The cylinder diamter is 5/8".


Here it is disassembled.

The seal is called a piston cup. They are a bear to find but I did find some that are cotton fabric and rubber. Look here at [url="http://www.ableindustrial.com/inchpiston%20cups.pdf"]style 9000[/url].
Or you could call a hydraulic repair shop. They probably can get leather cup seals with no hole. I would think a 5/8" wheel cylinder cup would work just fine. Check with your local auto parts guy.
This may not be the only problem. There is also a check valve in the bottom of the cylinder that could be stuck. If that's the case, pumping will not build up pressure. It requires a special wrench to remove the valve. If the check valve is not working, spray WD-40 into the valve and work it several times. This might free it up.
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tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts
Response Posted - 03/23/2007 :  11:14:20  Show Profile
Dan I seem to remember replaceing that leather cup with a part from an old Coleman stove, pretty sure. Usually all that was ever needed to restore those cups was a little lard rubbed into them, Neetsfoot oil also worked.

However I think that what is being sought here is the graphite cord material wrapped around the fuel valve stem.

Val on the hard DAGNABIT,#3936, Patchogue, N.Y.
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monty0
1st Mate

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USA
51 Posts
Response Posted - 03/23/2007 :  11:43:25  Show Profile
Indeed it is the piston cup which I require, as no pressure is building. I will ave a look at the check valve as well.

Thanks!

Monty
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dblitz
Navigator

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240 Posts
Response Posted - 03/25/2007 :  14:41:50  Show Profile
On the underside of the deck on the stove there's a washer which looks like a 'leather' material. I found that the pressurized fuel wouldn't get up to the burners because this seal was bad. If you put water under the burners and see bubbles there, that's where the pressure is going.
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sweetcraft
Admiral

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USA
816 Posts
Response Posted - 03/25/2007 :  23:29:07  Show Profile
There have been incidents written about catching the prime followed by suggestions of preheating with alcohol and just how much, propane torch, water to put out the fire, a helmet for the head when jumping back and practice, practice, practice. We still use our Alcohol Princess and have the orginal curtains. Spare parts are in the drawer.
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