Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I apologize if this has been discussed but I can't find any evidence of it. I have recently purchased a C25 after years of sailing a Contessa 26. I note that the ice box drains into the same thru hull as the galley sink and that sink water backs up into the ice box. Has anyone else had to deal with this and if so what is the solution??
There's supposed to be a backflow valve in the drain line. Yours may be faulty and need replacing. On the other hand, many of us find the uninsulated "ice box" is better used as a storage compartment, the drain hole plugged, and a cooler brought onboard.
One of the big problems with the C25 ice box drain is that if the thru hull valve is open (to allow for draining) and the boat heels over to port 25 degrees or more, water from outside the boat finds it's way into the ice box. To solve this required me to take two steps.
1. Freeze water in 1 gallon plastic containers. That way the "ice" doesn't melt into the ice box. Freeze the water at home in the freezer and take it to the boat.
2, I changed the little check valve to a bronze ball valve (similar to the thru hull valve. I bought the valve at Lowe's or Home Depot.... much less expensive than the boat places.... I keep the ice box valve closed until I actually want to empty any water from the ice box.
Another vote for converting the "ice box" to dry storage... A disadvantage of the stock configuration is the ice box drain acts as a vent to the sink drain (like the vents in your home plumbing), preventing it from developing a nice syphon action sucking the water out of the sink. That's why my forward sink always drained better than the galley sink. Also, air can be trapped in a high point in the sink drain hose and literally stop the flow until you develop enough pressure to drive the air down through the thru-hull. My plan, never executed, was to remove the icebox drain and cap its entry to the seacock. What I did do was reposition the sink drain hose so it angled steadily downward--no upward loops--that helped. (Now, for any fixture below the waterline like a head, you definitely want a vented loop!)
I almost don't want to tell you what I have done but...... I insulated the box and talked about Frank the whole time. Put in a second drain, put both into a plastic box with a float switch and a pump which pumps out through the swing keel cable hose (which the top is above the waterline). It is controled with a WM pump switch with manual, off and auto with a light when the pump is running. Worked great but was it worth it?
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.