Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I would like to be independent of my extension cord. Has anyone used a solar charger for long enough to see if it will maintain the charge with light use of the electronics about once a week. CD player and fan are the primary users. Little or no use of lights.
The second part is how did you attach it. I'm thinking off the back railing to the side of the motor. It would need some sort of rail clamp but I'm not sure how to do this.
I tried to keep the batteries charged last summer by running the motor. Result was I let the get so low they will not take a charge this year. I want to do a better job of keeping the charge up but do not want to have an extension cord running around over the dock while I am not there.
A 20 Watt solar panel has worked fine for me. I have 2 batteries, use the lights for night use occasionally and installed 2 fans this winter and each draws a max of .4 amps at high speed but I probably will not use them at that speed since air flow is fine at low and medium speeds which draw less current.
A 20 watt solar panle puts out ideally... 1.2 amps/hr. But given that angle to the sun will not be perfect at all times, getting between .4 to .7 amps/hr for about 5 hrs/day is more realistic.
Installation details with photos are on my website. Basically, I bought a Kyocera rigid panel (rigid panels put out the most juice at minimum panel size compared to flexible panels but a rigid panel must be mounted permanently and out of the way). I made my own mounts since I was not satisfied with what could be bought. My mounting system is off the stern rail above the motor. Allows the motor to be raused and lowered or even taken off the boat without removing the panel. The panel is mounted ina way that allows adjustment to slope it for winter when the sun is lower or level during summer. It can also be titled forward or back with the twist knob clamps on the stern rail. The panel can also be removed fairly easy since I utilized wing nuts and lock washers to facilitate removal. I made the mounts out of aluminum and then to reduce oxidation effects, primed them with a rust preventative and then a high grade enamel rust preventative finish coat. I did same for the stainless stell screws that maounted directly to the aluminum panel channels to ensure the stainless did not react with the aluminum channel. Since the panel puts out a bit more than what is needed for trickle charging the batteries, I use a Morningstar Pro 15M controller which is sort of an overkill but I like the digital readouts on the controller that indicates the excat sharge rate of the panel and the charging voltage at all times. When I have my motor on, the controller prevents backflow to the panel and then the controller indicates zero current coming from the panel. But the controller will indicate the charging voltage of the motor.
So far, installation has been working fine for over 1 1/2 yrs.
I have a 65 watt BP panel. It has the ability to put out 3.5 AH/hr. plenty to bring my batteries up to full charge within days. It is large and can be in the way. I would recommend a 20 watt as Larry has suggested. I have found that if you place the panel on the floor in your cockpit, that it performs quite well. I have to because of the size of my panel (24' x 49"). The reflection from the white sides help direct the light to the panel. Also, if your on a mooring or unsecure area, it is kind of hidden from view. It is in the way though!
Here is a link to a digital voltmeter I bought to monitor my batteries. I installed a momentary "push" button to view the voltage and monted it near my panel inside. This is not the most accurate way to determine the condition of your batteries, but it works great to get a reading and to see the output of the panel. You need a regulator for anything larger than 10 watts. Morningstar is the most popular and they make a model for about $29.
I have several charging sources on my C-25. Probably of most interest to you is a pair of Unisolar 10W flexible panels permanently mounted on deck above the head compartment. I have a fairly elaborate electrical system for a C-25, so I probably use more 12V power than you describe.
In a weekend daysailing pattern of use, the solar panels do a fine job of keeping three batteries charged (flooded cells, two group 27 deep cycle, and a group 24 cranking).
On a month-long cruise with 25% motoring (10A alternator), I only needed to run a generator once a week to make up the difference between solar/alternator and consumption.
Thanks for taking the time to reply to my question. I'm not sure what I am going to do but you've given me a lot to think about. I'm sure I'm not the only one interested in Solar chargers..I'd like to see the three of you get together and add some updated information to the Technical Tips. This would make some good information quickly available.
We used an 11 watt UniSolar flex panel. We used the lock on the locker hasp for one end and a bungee cord to keep it horizontal in the cockpit when we were away from the boat. The sun angles and the position of the boat made good sun "capture" possible. If we were on the other side of the dock, we would have had to figure out a different way to catch the rays. Depending on your house bank capacity, if you choose a large panel you may need a solar charger regulator. When we were sailing we left in on the cockpit cushions aft.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.