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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Capri 25 Specific Forum

Leaks, leaks and more leaks

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jmadd
1st Mate

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USA
85 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/06/2007 : 14:02:31

It's been raining here in Central Texas for about 45 days now, and Lake Travis has gone from 645 feet above sea level in January to 701.5 today. That's a lot of rain, and a lot of it has fallen on my boat. Back at the end of May I had the boat out for a bottom job and at that time I sealed up some of the common places water was leaking in - the rear scuppers and the hull to deck joint. I didn't have time for the windows, I keep buckets under them for now. Since then I've found three more places where water is showing up, but I don't know where it's getting in.

The first place is right under the companion-way. I'm seeing water leaking in there from between the "finish" vinyl (or whatever that is) and the top of the shelf over the companion-way cooler storage. That corresponds to the shelf that forms the step on the outside of the companion-way. I can see where its leaking in, but don't understand where the initial water penetration is from outside. Anyone figured that one out? Since I found this, I've seen at least one other boat that has the same leak.

The second is in the small storage compartment on the port side behind where the porta-potty sits. A small weep hole in this storage allows the water to flow down into the bilge, but there's still 2-3 inches of water that is collecting there.

Finally, in the forward bilge under the v-berth It looks like there's water seeping down the side of the hull, but I can't see where it's coming in. The through-bolts for the stanchion and shrouds are in that general area, but don't look like they have been leaking from the inside. I guess it could be the outside spin block track, but the leak under the v-berth looks well forward of there. Anyone have any ideas?

Regards, John

Edited by - on

saribella
Captain

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USA
286 Posts

Response Posted - 07/06/2007 : 22:23:02

Welcome to the realization you are a Capri 25 owner! The only way to get the water to stop coming in is to take up and re-bed ALL of the deck hardware including the rub-rails, through-hulls, & hatches, get the upper spreader through hull & deck plate welded, and spend the bucks on the retro-fit windows. Then you are going to have to create a water-tight bulkhead aft. Finally you are going to rig a new bilge pump system to take care of the 2-3" of water between the hull & liner which is kinda a have to. After having done all of this you just might get somewhere.

Edited by - on

1981capri
Navigator

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USA
175 Posts

Response Posted - 10/22/2007 : 09:24:29

Hi Matt

Where are you talking about installing the bilge pump system? I didn't realize there was a 2 to 3" void under the liner. I thought it was only about 3/4". Is there more space under there then I thought?

When I got my boat it had been raining hard for a week or so and I found a little water in quite a few places. I've sealed up the obvious holes and put a tarp over the top of the boat from the mast back over the companion way that laps over the windows and that has stopped most of it. I'm going to have to re-seal the windows, but that will have to wait for warmer drier weather next spring. Looking under the liner behind the cooler space by the battery box I found a space going under the liner by the keel bolts that had a little water. I dried it out by stuffing a sponge under and walking to the back of the boat and then wringing the sponge out. I got about a quart to a half gallon of water out of there. I looked when I went out yesterday and there wasn't any new accumulation there, but it was still damp. I was thinking behind the cooler space might be a good place for a pump, but now I am thinking I may be missing something.

Dan

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existentialsailor
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1180 Posts

Response Posted - 10/23/2007 : 07:47:54

Dan, there is a void below the the keel mount that is inaccessible, unless modifications have been made. Another place many of these boats leak is at the scuppers. On some boats the transom is a bit flexible if it hasn't been reinforced in some way for the outboard. A good way to find leaks is to use chalk. Get things dry and then draw lines. The water from the leak will erase the chalk and then you can trace back and find the leak. Depending on where you are and your weather conditions, condensation can be a big contributor to the dampness of the boat.

Edited by - on

Captain Ballast
1st Mate

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USA
38 Posts

Response Posted - 10/23/2007 : 08:24:56

I too have water leaking issues. Mostly comes in the windows and deck hardware. I took the windows out, scraped all the old adhesive from the fiberglass and used and nice bead of 5200 to hold the windows in. It worked... Better, but I still got water. My plan is to do as Saribella said. However I wont mess with the bilge set-up.

Is there a thread somewhere that has detailed information on deck hardware re-bedding and windows? I could manage on my own but if there was something I should watch out for ahead of time, that would be great

Edited by - on

Pirate Princess
1st Mate

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USA
37 Posts

Response Posted - 05/02/2008 : 10:11:38

I am also facing some mystery leaks. But I knew that was in store because my boat was neglected for 15 years. However I do have a question for those of you who have "been there".

1. As I look at the jib/genoa tracks, underneath the tracks there is of course, the bit of dried up caulk at each screw hole but there also appears to be a sort of black foam/rubber strip that is under the track and runs the entire length of the track. I am anxious to pull these tracks and re-bed them but is this rubber/foam thing something that will crumble and will I need to replace once I pull this track off? I want to have all the stuff ready and available once I do this, as I hate pulling something apart and then having to go find the piece that fell apart or wait for days for something to ship.

2. (Ok so I have 2 questions). Hatch gaskets for the forward hatch and the lazerettes? Where can I find gasket material that works?

Thanks once again, in advance.

Karen in Kansas City
Will I ever get this boat launched?

Edited by - on

my_tahoe_too
1st Mate

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USA
32 Posts

Response Posted - 05/02/2008 : 11:26:21

http://s10.photobucket.com/albums/a134/my_tahoe_too/

Welcome to the Capri 25 leak-a-thon. The void under the decking is GIANT. The pics (@ Photobucket.com) demonstrate what it can hold. Bilge bumps on MT2 are 'installed' BOTH just behind the companionway cooler/ step AND fwd, in the fore peak locker, against the bulkhead. I should mention that on MT2, that particular seam is essentially broken and open so when I'm on the 'hard' I can position the boat bow down, and easily pump out the void, which moves into that forward area (clear as mud, right?) My philosophy is 'as long as it doesn't come in through the bottom, what's the prob!?' Regarding re-bedding, when I replace something, I do the proper re-bed with 3M5100 or clear silicon sealer whichever is approp. for the application. Its a work in progress.

//doghouse
Hull #34
My Tahoe Too!

Edited by - on

jmadd
1st Mate

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USA
85 Posts

Response Posted - 05/02/2008 : 12:37:39

A buddy of mine here has a Capri he bought recently off ebay and he's got it totally stripped down. One other place he found that is sure to generate lots of water below is the rub rail. When he pulled off the rub rail he found that the aluminum strip had been screwed into the side of the boat without any caulking whatsoever. Additionally there were some holes without screws in them. Hard to understand that.

I've noticed whenever I dip the rail on my boat I get a lot of water below and I suspect that's where it's coming from. I sponged out about two gallons a couple weeks ago when we found ourselves over powered and under crewed for a race.

I re-bedded the spinnaker block tracks last fall and it didn't seem to do anything to keep the water from collecting below when the rails were dipped. I used 3M 4200 under the tracks to replace the black strip. The rail is slightly concave underneath so you need a pretty good size bead and careful attention to around the bolts. Do yourself a favor and buy completely new nuts and bolts. I think there's 42 per rail.
John

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Pirate Princess
1st Mate

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USA
37 Posts

Response Posted - 05/02/2008 : 19:30:06

John and Doghouse,

Thanks for sharing the info and photos. I do get some water after a good rail soaking sail, but most seems to come from topsides when rain comes in and in places where there is no thru deck fitting, so I am guessing it is "traveling" before entering or vice versa.

I was frustrated by the water I keep finding in the void. There is a bilge pump installed on my boat, but fails to work (I think the rubber just got old after sitting for 15 years). This bilge pump is installed in cockpit on the vertical section of the cockpit seat on the port side. The hose does run into the void area and terminates near the keel area. It looked factory to me but what do I know?

So if I make this operational you are saying I still should cut a hole in the cabin sole and install another forward?

Ok I am going to stop visiting the forums - you guys are making me really work on my boat (grins)! Any ideas on replacement hatch gaskets?

Karen in Kansas City

Edited by - on

Ericson33
Admiral

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USA
892 Posts

Response Posted - 05/02/2008 : 20:45:21

you should be able to buy the gasket material at catalina direct

Edited by - on

my_tahoe_too
1st Mate

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USA
32 Posts

Response Posted - 05/05/2008 : 13:35:49

Slow down there Princess! I cut out my sole (no pun intended), and I am NOT recommending that to anyone else, when or if you don't have to. And you don't. I'm not sure about your OEM bilge pump but I do know about the ones I've installed because I hate pumping by hand, and as long as the sun shines and my battery works, 12 VDC is the way to go. The forward location (I think) does NOT require cutting but now that you mention it, that seam has separated some time ago for me and I'm sure I took advantage of it by opening it up to allow the wa-wa to flow forward. While it is structural as sorts, drilling a few weep holes (a.k.a. limber holes) to allow the void to release its contents vs. drilling a hole in the hull to drain it (from below) is far more reasonable than the method I used (drilling the hull). So, more work? Maybe. More fun? I don't know about that, but it is a boat, and you know what that stands for: BOAT: Break out another thousand!

Edited by - on

Pirate Princess
1st Mate

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USA
37 Posts

Response Posted - 05/05/2008 : 18:22:50

Doghouse,

Thanks for the info and making me laugh! I think I will try getting my bilge pump operational or even replaced and see if that doesnt take care of the water in the great dark abyss. I dont mind working on the boat and it has been a labor of love . . . . and money. But I like sailing better!

My first priority is to address the mystery leaks from all locations. After reading on several sites about windows, I plan to use the butyl tape trick. I also am playing with the idea to use butyl tape to re-bed the genoa and jib tracks as well - to replace that black foam/spongey thing that is there.

Any reason that would not work? Of course I will also be using 4200 in the bolt/screw holes. But are the 2 compatible? One does not break down the other? Butyl vs 4200? Is that too many questions???

Thanks again guys for all your help.

Karen in Kansas City the "Wheat Coast"

Edited by - on

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