Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
On my list of issues to correct by next spring, what to do with a trailer hitch lock that is stuck in the up position. I have a trail-rite trailer. When I put the boat in this past spring the hitch lock worked ok, now it is stuck in the up position so will not lock when placed on the ball. A liberal dose of WD-40 has made no difference. Not that I would wish this on anyone, but I'm hoping someone has had a similar experiences.
I know that I cannot move the hitch lock if hydraulic brake presure is on. This can happen when I'm backed up so what I do is to place wood blocks in front of the trailer tires, move the truck forward a bit (just on idle). When I get back to the hitch, no hydraulic presure (the hitch is fully down) and I can use my hitch lock.
Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 10/09/2007 14:20:09
If the lock lever will move fine when NOT on the ball, you have the same deal going as me, and others. If stuck when NOT on the ball, none of this applies. I have found the following to be helpful:
1.) Center the vehicle hitch as carefully as possible. No "almost centered" like other trailers. 2.) After lowering the ball onto the hitch, stand on the tongue and shake the thing as much as you can. Works 20% of the time. But do NOT stand on the lever to try to force it. 3.) If that does not work, with the ball still on the hitch, raise the trailer jack, and then get in the tow vehicle and drive it forward a foot or two and the brake hard. The resulting "shake" allows the ball to get fully into the trailer (tongue, thing, I don't know what you call it.) This has worked the other 80% of the time for me. After this manuver, I go back to the trailer and find that the lever has closed by itself (usually) or that I can just push it closed.
It's possible that the latch is jammed against the ball preventing it from moving. I've found Kevin's last suggestion the most useful, simply pull forward a couple of feet & stop abruptly. This almost always solves the problem for us. Keep the interior receptacle coated with some molybdenum grease, as well as your ball. I usually goop a small finger full of grease onto the ball & socket before attempting to attach the trailer, it's messy, but seems to help.
I've also found that if you set the receptacle down onto the ball so that the ball needs to go backwards about half an inch or so, it prevents this problem. When you drop the hitch down onto the ball when it's a bit too far forward, it slides down the "front" of the receptacle, keeping the latch that's in the back free from jams.
You also need to make sure that the hydraulic ram isn't pushed backwards, you can fairly easily rotate it by hand, but it takes a fair amount of force.
I tried some of your suggestions, but even when off the ball the latch will not go down. What is this about the hydraulic ram? There is a bolt that runs through a hydraulic piston. Is this something that can be reset or adjusted? I have until spring, but if I don't fix it I'll be thinking about it all winter. Mike
Presuming that you have the same hydraulic brake system I do, there is a piston that's driven backwards & up (or maybe down?) when you brake your towing vehicle. It does this by rotating the very end of the tongue which pivots and pushes an arm which drives the piston, which operates the brakes. As you pull forward, the piston is drawn back to it's "resting" position and the trailer brakes release.
If you look at the hitch attachment (cup), you'll see that it's on a pivot pin, and you can see the arc of the bolt on the side of the tongue. If the cup is rotated, it'll be obvious. You can grab the cub with both hands and pivot it back down with prolonged pressure, it'll move very slowly, but it'll go. It's easier to do with the truck using the pull forward & stop method, this'll bring it back down where it's supposed to be. On some models, you can insert a pin into a hole along the arc mentioned above to keep it from pivoting in a backing situation (meaning, no trailer braking). Mine doesn't have this pin, so I'm not familiar with the process.
All that said, I don't think that's actually your problem. I think the locking clip inside the cup of the tongue is jammed somehow, or possibly bent. Some judicious prying with a big screwdriver from inside the cup may free it.
The latch on my hitch "froze" in place last spring. I used a large screwdriver, hammer, and lots of WD 40 and moved the latch back and forth until it was free again.
Note: I think salt water launches created a build up and froze the hitch mechanism. I have since went over the trailer and cleaned all the moving parts. I no longer do salt water launches. I have the boat lifted on/off of the trailer now (cheaper to lift the boat than replace parts on the trailer - I only trailer the boat a couple times a year).
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.