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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

non-skid paint

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RL
1st Mate

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USA
76 Posts

Initially Posted - 01/15/2008 : 07:45:08

Guys,
I've read through this http://catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=5186&SearchTerms=paint topic regarding painting the non-skid areas on my deck. It appears to be advisable not to paint the areas. My problem is that I have some kind of a red paint/stain showing through on the foreward non-skid areas. I've tried all types of cleaners with no effect. If painting is not suggested how do I get rid of the red? BTW I have a 78 25' Standard Swing. White hull and deck, red water line and trim line. The non-skids are a light grey.
Thanks for any help.
RL

Free Spirit

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 01/15/2008 : 08:46:09

Is this red stain under and around a roller furling line?

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 01/15/2008 : 09:07:55

Painting is always a last resort but they make it for a reason. Sounds like it is time to paint. A friend repainted the nonskid gray on their 30, (it had been light blue... yeech), and it turned out great. I would be happy to ask her if she has any advise for you.

Edited by - on

John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 01/15/2008 : 09:10:15

I'm wondering if the red stain your seeing is the fiberglass showing through eroded gelcoat. Certainly a possibility after 30 years. If so, you might try some of that spray gelcoat product. Matching the non-skid texture <s>might </s> will be difficult.

Edited by - John Russell on 01/15/2008 09:10:46

RL
1st Mate

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USA
76 Posts

Response Posted - 01/15/2008 : 09:31:04

Don - Yes and No, There is red showing in areas that the (red) furling line might bleed on, but I also have areas on the cabin roof that show the same red without a line that might be the culprit. Also it is only on the non-skid area, if it was from the lines would it not also stain the surrounding deck?

Frank - Yes, I am very interested in your friends input. Paint that was used, how it lasted, how the finish look?

John - I dont think it's the glass showing through, but not certain. These areas get very little wear.

Guys thanks for the help, I've seen this problem on other older 25's, just not sure of the best way to handle the problem.

Happy Sailing
RL

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 01/15/2008 : 10:05:24

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by RL
 Don - Yes and No, There is red showing in areas that the (red) furling line might bleed on, but I also have areas on the cabin roof that show the same red without a line that might be the culprit.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I have a blue spot under my blue flecked furling line between the last forward stanchion and the bow pulpit. In this 6" by 1.5' oblong spot, dark blue spots can be seen on the tops of the raised nubs of the non skid.

If you're sure it's a stain, try a cleaner type wax to see if it removes the surface stain.

Edited by - dlucier on 01/15/2008 10:08:07

crcalhoon
Captain

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USA
303 Posts

Response Posted - 01/15/2008 : 10:17:46

I have a 1979 SR FK, #1435. Two years ago, when I acquired it, I painted it top to bottom using roll and tip method with Interlux Brightsides paint. I used that paint only because I have used it before, not because there is nothing better on the market, there may be for all I know. I used the paint straight out of the can for vertical surfaces. For horizontal surfaces and non-skid I added a flattener. There were large bare patches on the foredeck and the sloped part of the cabin forward around the hatch. They looked like wear platches, like you might get with sheets or maybe a deck-sweeper genny used an awful lot. In any event, the gel coat was gone in those areas. I know that many will disagree with this, but my opinion on a boat of this age and value is that unless you dearly love her and want to keep her forever, it is just not worth it to get into re gel-coating the whole schmear. There comes a time to paint. Use a good quality brush on the non-skid, be very gentle and try not to fill in the non-skid depressions. Accept the fact that in two or three years you'll have to do some touch up. Probably every year, now that I think of it. But it is no big deal. Boy, did I open myself up on that one!

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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4306 Posts

Response Posted - 01/15/2008 : 15:36:55

Out of curiosity about how much would it cost to get a boat re-gelcoated and would it look like new after it's done?

GaryB
'89 SR/Wk
Kemah,TX

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cleffe
Deckhand

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USA
21 Posts

Response Posted - 01/15/2008 : 19:34:32

Here you go. i am in the process of completely restoring a 79 c-25. the gel coat was shot on the entire deck. i decided to repaint it using two part urethane paint. Look on-line for paint, not marine sites, you can find it for about half the price as marine brands. same stuff basically. i used a epoxy primer and medium grit crushed walnut shells for the non-skid. I primed and painted the deck first, than taped and primed the non-skid. while the primer was wet i sprinkled the crushed walnut all over the non-skid areas, as evenly as possible. let this dry, rough it up some with sandpaper, clean it with mek, and then paint it with the two part urethane paint. it came out great. i will try to attach some pics. as a side note i would use fine grade crushed walnut shell if i had to do it again. medium is a little rough on the feet.

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cleffe
Deckhand

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USA
21 Posts

Response Posted - 01/15/2008 : 19:36:29

sorry the pics are really small. if you would like a better pic let me know and i can email them to you.

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saribella
Captain

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USA
286 Posts

Response Posted - 01/15/2008 : 20:03:10

RL,

IF your non-skid areas are showing through the undercoat, then it is way past time to repaint. The paint used in today's applications are intended to provide a lasting durable finish to the intended surface provided it is properly prepared. Why anyone would spend the cash to re-gelcoat is beyond me. My advice is to look into the interlux one part line of paints. It is easy to apply yourself and is cost effective. the only caveat is that the prep work required is extensive and time consuming (sanding & removing/replacing deck hardware), but well worth the effort. This past year I repainted my entire boat from top to bottom, and had great results. Here are a few photos to show the possibilities (taken after a season of sailing). This was my first effort ever. Good luck.

Edited by - saribella on 01/15/2008 20:04:10

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 01/16/2008 : 09:14:32

Here is the input from my friend's husband; yes he is my friend too.

About the paint: we…make that she used Interlux non-skid paint, I don’t recall the additive that is stirred into the paint before it’s applied, but here’s my thoughts:

Helpful hints:

I washed the deck well and scuffed the existing non-skid with a 3M pad and washed it again.
Careful tape job goes a long way to ensuring a quality finish.
Stir the paint very frequently to keep the non-skid additive suspended. Interlux is quality paint, however, to ensure an even coat, frequent stirring is required.
Roll or brush on 2 thin coats being sure not to fill the existing non-skid any more than necessary

Things I did right:

Got my girl friend to paint it in a bikini!

Things I did wrong:

Married the painter before all the other boat projects were done!!!

Seriously, the non-skid looks fantastic and “updated” the top-sides more than I thought it would, however the “light grey” is closer to “battleship” than to the shade of grey on many newer Catalinas. Thus it’s smoking hot on your feet in the summer sun and if I had it to do again, I’d lighten the grey by mixing in some white. We painted the non-skid 3 years ago and it has needed virtually no touch up.

Edited by - Frank Hopper on 01/16/2008 09:15:10

crcalhoon
Captain

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USA
303 Posts

Response Posted - 01/16/2008 : 18:08:48

In the early 80's we re-painted our South Coast 23 (hull # 1) with Interlux. We made the mistake of painting the non-skid areas with a pretty golden brown. This was in New Orleans. Next year re-painted it with a lighter color. Still hot. These days I think white is a great color.

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bigelowp
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1787 Posts

Response Posted - 01/18/2008 : 07:21:18

For what it's worth -- my $0.02 worth.

Having had older fiberglass boats in the past -- some with paint some without -- you should do whatever it takes to hold off painting as long as is reasonably possible. I have found waxing several times a season on old glass helps immeasurably. When you are finally faced with the job, their are good non-marine products to consider (urethane/epoxy floor finishes, etc), however as has been said preparation is 90% of the task. Plan (read color, finish and time) and prep (read surface and environment -- no falling leaves, dust, etc) well.

Gary: While I am blessed with an older 25 that has well maintained gel coat -- I did have a serious issue with the bow that required professional work including gel coat. Where re-gel coated it looks like new -- flawless. I was told that the rule of thumb for a yard to either Awlgrip or Gel Coat is @$250.00/ft for the topsides (25' x $250 = @$6k and @$350.00/ft the topside (25'x $350 = @$9k). If you do it yourself it is MUCH less, but requires the right facility/equipment to do the job -- not to mention skill.

Having painted fiberglass before, if and when my boat may ever need it will be when I get a newer boat.

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 01/18/2008 : 08:06:02

It certainly is true that an ugly boat is not a broken boat.

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