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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Removing teak

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NCBill39
Deckhand

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USA
3 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/09/2008 : 23:29:50

I have searched the forums for some guidelines on removing the teak trim on my '86 C-25. The companionway guides for the drop boards are broken, and I want to replace them. I assume they are glued on, but have no idea how to remove them without damaging the fiberglass underneath or destroying the original teak which I hope to use as a template for the new stuff.

Edited by - on

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 02/10/2008 : 10:56:31

"I assume they are glued on, "

Probably not 'glued' more likely set in some sort of 'bedding compound'. The compounds used by the Catalina factory on my early model allowed me to remove all the trim without breaking a single piece.

However, bedding compounds vary in their adhesive properties and if they have been re-bedded by a previous owner you don't know what you're up against. If they are bedded in a strong adhesive like 5200 they may be very difficult to get off without breaking them.

Your options in a nutshell:

1) Very careful prying with one or more thin tools. Start on one end and gently work your way along.
2) Starting a piece of music wire underneath one end and using it to saw out the bedding compound.
(use it like dental floss under the piece).
3) Heat. Even 5200 releases when heated to a certain temperature. However, when using a heat gun you have to be careful not to damage the boat... or set it on fire. :>)
4) Chemical agents. There are 'release agents' available in the marine catalogs.

You'll be surprised how well 'ugly' teak looks after some sanding and re-finishing.

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 02/10/2008 : 11:01:29

I think the "trick" that surprised most who did this is that there are screw heads hiding under the trim strips inside the companionway. and those pieces must be removed first before you can get the outside off.

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 02/10/2008 : 12:25:13

Correct. It took me some prolonged sluething to figure that out--I wasn't smart enough to just ask here. I'm surprised you didn't find that by searching--it's been pointed out by me and others in numerous threads on the subject. But that's why we have the forums--no question is disallowed or ignored just because it was answered previously.

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NCBill39
Deckhand

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USA
3 Posts

Response Posted - 02/10/2008 : 22:44:46

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Frank Hopper
 I think the "trick" that surprised most who did this is that there are screw heads hiding under the trim strips inside the companionway. and those pieces must be removed first before you can get the outside off.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
That is what I suspected, but then, it is evidently necessary to remove both the internal trim strips to get at the external strips and then the external strips. UGH.

If the teak were just ugly, I'd find a way to clean it up, but it is broken and the drop boards can come out.

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2far2drive
1st Mate

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USA
74 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2008 : 09:51:10

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">
If the teak were just ugly, I'd find a way to clean it up, but it is broken and the drop boards can come out.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Mine is the exact same way, I dont even lock the hatch because the top board slips right out anyways so the lock is useless. Let me know what you end up doing to replace them as Im quite interested myself.

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2008 : 13:21:07

The outer teak is a very complex piece of wood, and very expensive to replicate. The 89s use a different strategy, a simple board.

I would look into changing the way your crib boards work and see if you can make something out of simpler pieces of wood.

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Sloop Smitten
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1181 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2008 : 13:38:24

For those of you with hatch boards so loose you can push/pull them out without sliding them up, you can put adhesive backed foam door insulation inside the slot to take up some of the slack. It not only centers them in the channel but stabilizes them so they do not move left and right. Cheap and easy.

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NCBill39
Deckhand

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USA
3 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2008 : 21:35:00

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by 2far2drive
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">
If the teak were just ugly, I'd find a way to clean it up, but it is broken and the drop boards can come out.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Mine is the exact same way, I dont even lock the hatch because the top board slips right out anyways so the lock is useless. Let me know what you end up doing to replace them as Im quite interested myself.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I didn't mention it earlier, but there is a complicating factor - the width of the slot for the drop boards is about 1", but it appears that someone thinned the edges of the drop boards to about 1/2", so that one board can slip over the one below it - another reason to fix the guides. I don't think that replicating them will be too bad - my son-in-law is skilled with wood, so getting them to look nice shouldn't be a problem - even if they aren't exactly the same as the original. I bought my teak from EastTeak in South Carolina for about $13-$14 per board foot. My cost for materials is around $40.

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.