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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Primer and Ablative Paint

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cat1951
Admiral

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USA
636 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/07/2008 : 15:56:23

I am preparing to paint the rudder from our boat and was reading the instructions on the can of Interlux primer that I got at WM. I know reading the instructions may have been my problem

, but it says something that I am curious about.

It says that you should put the ablative paint over the primer while the surface is still tacky.

I am wondering if the primer dries slow enough for me to do this. AND Why is it necessary?

Oh...and would it really be useless if it was completely dry before I applied the ablative paint?

Thanks

Mike
Grand Lake, OK
N.O. Catalina 25 #4849
In my opinion 75% of the earth is water for a reason. That's why I sail.

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 03/07/2008 : 16:10:55

I guess it is to enhance the bond. It probably helps adhesion, and I would try to do it per instructions. If you don't make it, it will probably be ok - the primer won't be tacky when you recoat next year. If is is because ablatives don't adhere well to the primer, then it might bond and keep a film of ablative for future applications. The big paint manufacturers know their paints and want you to be satisfied with the result.

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 03/07/2008 : 18:04:28

That's a common recommendation for "sandless" primers. If the primer is allowed to dry completely, it generally should be sanded lightly to add some "tooth". Some sandless primers (including Interlux's) went off the market for a while because people weren't following those instructions and were dissatisfied with the adhesion of their paint. (Lesson there??) You might want to prime just one side and then paint it, followed by the other. Next time you paint, you'll generally be painting over the ablative--just follow the instructions for that.

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stampeder
Master Marine Consultant

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1608 Posts

Response Posted - 03/07/2008 : 18:15:15

It stays tacky for a couple of hours.
I did mine in the early spring and kept it in the shade of a tarp.
It looks dry, but if you stick your finger in it, its tacky. It is quite forgiving to work with.
It has held up very well over two sailing seasons.

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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5897 Posts

Response Posted - 03/07/2008 : 18:39:20

Interlux has a phone number on the label of the can for their tech line. I have called them 3-4 times, and they have always been very helpful. They should be able to tell you how long you have to cover the primer with the first coat of antifouling.

With bottom paint, it's very important to follow the instructions exactly, or you might end up with a terrible mess.

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cat1951
Admiral

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USA
636 Posts

Response Posted - 03/07/2008 : 19:22:31

Thanks ... With just the rudder to paint...and the lower portion at that, I am pretty sure that I can follow the instructions without difficulty. Especially if as stampeder says that it stays tacky for a couple of hours. I just had visions of rushing the job and didn't really want to do that.

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 03/08/2008 : 06:07:11

I haven't used an ablative paint for sometime now, but if I were using it now, I'd be inclined to use a non-ablative on the rudder to make handling a little less messy. Also, if memory serves me, I put double the amount of coats on the rudder than what was on the hull because the extra turbulence on the rudder seemed to wear it away at a faster rate.

Just some thoughts...

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cat1951
Admiral

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USA
636 Posts

Response Posted - 03/08/2008 : 06:36:09

Thanks Don, I plan to put several coats of primer on before I add the top coat. JB, the PO, had refinished the rudder just a few years ago. There wasn't hardly a speck of the ablative left after I cleaned off the algae and began the sanding process.

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OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3448 Posts

Response Posted - 03/08/2008 : 08:53:30

Don - Good thoughts !!

I had my boat painted a year ago and since the last time the PO had it painted, it was 5 years. I used a co-polymer which is similar to an ablative and hope to get at least 3 seasons or more out of it. In regards to painting the rudeer with a hard paint, that is a good idea because the experience I have had when removing the rudder is that the ablative/copolymer paint does come off ...on your hands, arms, cockpit areas and clothing. I normally do not remove the rudder since I sail year-round. But sometimes there are occasions when I have rmoved it and had cleanup because of the paint coming off on things.

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.