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bottom paint?

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capn rick
1st Mate

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USA
36 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/19/2002 : 14:58:14

skippers:

I am contemplating a haul out for late this month/early Sept. Boat is in fresh water but hasn't been hauled in 7 years or so. What brand bottom paint do you guys recommend? and will one gal. suffice for a standard swing keel paint job? I also have gel coat damage (Sauger fisherman wanted my new fenders-they disppeared same weekend I installed em and it beat the cr*p outa my hull) I am considering repainting the hull to a light brown over the white original. Any suggestions? thanks in advance.
Capn Rick Stieg
s/v "Cavale" 4238

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Gary B.
Admiral

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USA
969 Posts

Response Posted - 08/19/2002 : 18:00:03

I use a copolymer so that the boat can be trailered/stored ashore without losing its anti-foulant properties. It's also called "ablative". One gallon will do two coats and have enough left for a third at the waterline and on the leading edge of rudder and keel. Consider changing the cable while she's hauled, if it's been that long. Also, if the gelcoat scratches aren't too deep, consider buffing the hull. Read the thread in the archives that OJ (I think) wrote about going so far a "sanding" the hull. I've done it since, and he was SO right. I used 600 grit/then 800/ then 1500 grit. Avoid a cheap/one part topside paint until you have no choice. And LPU is so expensive......unless you're a really good painter with all the right equipment....Good luck.....

Gary B.
Encore! #685 SK/SR

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 08/19/2002 : 19:23:57

"What brand bottom paint do you guys recommend?" - Capn Rick Stieg

I would poll others in your own sailing waters as to what type and brand they use for your particular area and go with what works best. Are you in fresh or saltwater? Warm or cold water? High or low fouling area? Do you haulout for the winter or are you moored year round? The best advice is from those around you because so much is dependent on your local conditions and if the other sailors have "been there and done that", they may have some good advice to share.

Don Lucier, North Star
C25 SR/FK

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Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 08/20/2002 : 08:46:42

For Fresh water almost any bottom paint will do. We use VC-17, but only because there was leftovers from the boat on which I race. Free is always good.

Depending on what you want to do will dictate your paint. Racers want a nice smooth finish that doesn't obstruct water flow, thus the VC-17. Although, I do understand interlux makes a Regatta paint now too.

http://www.uspaint.com/awlgrip/marine.html

You'll need to sand off anything that is already there with an 80 grit papaer. Then wipe the area down with interlux 202 or a marine paint thinner. (I generally use the MFG's recommended product when dealing with the boat, but I would assume a good wash with any marine paint thinner would work). Do this outdoors!!!! Two coats should do it. As for quantity, I am trying to go from memory, but if I recall, a quart will just about cover one coat. You will need to work quickly as the stuff dries very quickly.

The last guy I know to paint his hull used Awl-grip I can't say anything about it other than it looks nice

http://www.uspaint.com/awlgrip/marine.html

hope this helps...

dw

Duane Wolff
"The Flying Wasp"
C-25, #401 std,sk
Chief Measurer C-25/250 National Assn.
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b1ce23b3127cce9b043565af3d0000004010" border=0>

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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3321 Posts

Response Posted - 08/20/2002 : 11:34:44

Capn.Rick - when you buy the bottom paint, get two different colors. Put the first coat(s) on with one color and then use the second color for the next coat(s). When you start to see the first color showing, it's time to re-paint!
Derek - still not sailing on "This Side Up"<img src=icon_smile_sad.gif border=0 align=middle>

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 08/20/2002 : 12:39:26

Derek's suggestion has merit if you're using ablative paint that wears away gradually. There's no point in putting more on until a fair amount of it has worn away--the biocide doesn't degrade in the air as with most hard paints.

Once you start using an ablative, you have to continue with it (or something like it)--it can go on top of a hard paint, but hard paints generally won't hold on top of it. And hard paints require periodic removal to prevent buildup, cracking, and general ugliness. For a graphic illustration, see the bottom of our boat when it comes out this Fall--the DPO left me a mess!

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

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jm
Captain

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Canada
290 Posts

Response Posted - 08/20/2002 : 14:26:59

If I remember correctly, Practical Sailor gave top marks to Pettit Trinidad SR (Slime Resistant) as the strongest and longest lasting bottom paint. The copper content was really high (70%), and might be overkill for an inland fresh water lake. The best bottom paint I've used (low cost and effective) is West Marine's house brand modified epoxy bottom paint. It has great coverage on a 60grit sanded hull, (2 coats and some to spare) and hardened up to a smooth finish (not VC17 slick/smooth, but not bad). On sale, a gallon sold for $49.95. I can't say it would last 5-6 years - I haul out every year, and it seems to keep all the 'wildlife' to a bare minimum.

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najewicz
Deckhand

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USA
14 Posts

Response Posted - 08/20/2002 : 22:32:13

<font size=4></font id=size4> I just finished ( tonight ) a bottom job on my Cat 24 swing keel. I took it down to the gelcoat, did one coat of "corro-coat" commercial epoxy, sanded, two coats of interlux 2000, sanded and two coats of Interlux ultra. The bottom is pretty smooth, not as smooth as some racers I have seen locally, but pretty good for cruising in the Ohio river. I keep the boat in the water all year and in the summer the bottom is pretty prone to getting slime and mossy looking stuff. A frind of mine had the ultra on his cape dory and it looked great after about 3 years in the water.

The conditions here are no where as bad as the ocean, but I figure the ulta was worth it (~$160) if I can go several years without hauling out. My friend claims the ultra can be scrubbed to remove any fouling and holds up pretty well. I did two coats on the hull and one coat on the keel before running out.

My only recommendation is that doing a bottom job yourself is a really terrible job, if you can afford to have someone else do the sanding do it.

Dave Najewicz
82 CAT-25 SR/SK

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Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 08/22/2002 : 12:11:20

I will second that on the sanding being done by someone else...Its worth it to grab a lawn chair and a cooler and "Supervise" as my Dad used to say when I lived at home. Than lay on your back and do it yourself.

Duane Wolff
"The Flying Wasp"
C-25, #401 std,sk
Chief Measurer C-25/250 National Assn.
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2d603b3127cce9f858f0ef3ef0000001010" border=0>

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 08/26/2002 : 02:45:17

Capn Rick,
If it's been 7 years I'd be looking closely for blisters as soon as you have the boat stabilized on the hard . . .
I covered my blister repairs with 5 coats of Interlux System 2000 water barrier then 5 quarts of VC17m - a bullet proof combination.

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capn rick
1st Mate

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USA
36 Posts

Response Posted - 08/28/2002 : 16:56:02

Thanks for all the help skippers! Am planning a Mid-September haul out and see....Already have a new cooler to take as a 'hook' for sailing buddies to 'drop by' with a sander....NOT!

Capn Rick

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