Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
In an effort to simplify mainsail reefing, I removed the entire 250 interior boom factory delivered system. I then ran a single line from the luff cringle, down to a mast step block and back to the starboard clutch. At the leech, I put a single line through the reefing cringle and down to a cam cleat with a fairlead I attached to the boom. When it's time to reef, first I secure the luff, then the leech. The sail is tucked into my lazy jacks. Quick and easy. To "unreef", I first pop the leech line out of the cam, then release the starboard clutches and haul the sail back up with zero resistance. I'll post some pics tomorrow.
Quicker'n a cat can winks it's eye ;-) Haven't yet reefed this new setup in a reefing situation under sail. My only concern is tension against the cam cleat: will it pull the screws out on a port tack? No problem to starboard.
<font color="blue"><font size="4"><font face="Comic Sans MS">Frank As I recall you can bolt all the way thru the boom to the otherside. There is room for the bolts and the outhaul pully wires inside the boom. Where are those lazy jacks? paulj</font id="Comic Sans MS"></font id="size4"></font id="blue">
I didn't raise the jacks for the pics; they're secured at the mast. I'd be afraid of drilling into the topping lift wire. But if the screws don't hold, I'll have no other choice.
Another option to handle the load on port tack might be to put the cleat on the bottom or even the other side of the boom so the reefing line wraps partially against the boom and puts a sheer force on the screws. If you thru-bolt, you might want to use shoulder bolts (smooth shafts with threaded ends) so any internal rigging doesn't wear on the threads.
Good suggestion to reposition to port side of the boom. I'll wait till the screws pull loose first ;-), then thru bolt. I'll take her out in a stiff breeze, reef, and report back the result, i.e. ease of reefing compared to factory delivered system.
Frank... generally cams are not used in a reefing setup for the reason that one simply does not want any possibility of a cleated reef line getting loose.
Having said that, we each use what works for us and there are no hard rules. I can certainly understand reefing simplicity on boats that are day sailed compared to those that cruise or go off shore. I don't think our boats ought to try to emulate blue water boats in all instances because our sailing and our needs do differ.
Already decided to add a cleat to the port side of the boom to secure the bitter end of the leech line. In our local conditions, most of the time just reefing the jib is sufficient, so I don't anticipate much mainsail reefing. Actually, the best set up here is a reefed main and the jib rigged for self tacking, partially reefed. Good for 12 to 15 knots of wind. Above 15, main only or jib only. 250's are light air boats.
Frank, I know its been discussed but isn't she unbalanced by using main or jib only? But if using one over the other, isn't main best? What is your experience? BTW, do you have double reef and have you tried that. Steve A
FWIW, my boat sails great on main alone, and quite dismally on genoa alone.
I'm thinking of doing some reefing mods, probably installing blocks and big clips to the reef cringles. What sort load weight do these need to be rated for?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by soulfinger</i> <br />FWIW, my boat sails great on main alone, and quite dismally on genoa alone.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Not surprising, and opposite of my experience with the C-25, which has the mast further aft (and is therefore more headsail-driven).
Steve, if it was necessary for me to add a second reef in the main, I no go out. Best balance for our local conditions is as I've outlined above. I prefer to keep my reefing system on the K.I.S.S. principle as I describe above.
I use a 2-line system since I do not have lines lead aft to the cockpit yet, except the jib halyard. Therefore, I have to go to the mast anyway to lower the main halyard. After doing that, I pull in on the luff reefing line and cleat it on the mast. Then I pull in on the leech reefing line, which runs forward along the boom to a cleat not too far from the front of the boom. If I had all of my control lines coming back to the cockpit (it's on my to do list) I would set up a 1-line reefing system.
What about running your leech line through a turning block, then forward about 6-12" to your cam cleat?
BTW, with a 1-line system, what's wrong with having the line start at the end of the boom pulling in the leech first? Wouldn't you luff the main first for the reefing process anyway. Seems like the idea is to do it fast so there wouldn't be much time for stressing the leech.
"In an effort to simplify mainsail reefing, I removed the entire 250 interior boom factory delivered system. I then ran a single line from the luff cringle, down to a mast step block and back to the starboard clutch. At the leech, I put a single line through the reefing cringle and down to a cam cleat with a fairlead I attached to the boom. When it's time to reef, first I secure the luff, then the leech. The sail is tucked into my lazy jacks. Quick and easy. To "unreef", I first pop the leech line out of the cam, then release the starboard clutches and haul the sail back up with zero resistance."
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.