Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Also, they have the Lewmar 6C on sale ($129.95). Are folks happy with this non-tailer or should I spend the extra $ for the 16T ($470)?? I plan to only get one since we have a furler. We'll use it to raise the main and reef.
Randy, I added a block to the SS loop that the lifeline conects to on the cat bird seat, worked fine when I tested a spinny sheet all the way back there. Or are you planning on putting the block on the crooked stanchions?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I think that he was referring to a cam cleat after your coaming winch. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
John, I'm planning to move the self-tailers to the coaming and put one 6C on the deck where one 16ST is now on starboard to use for raising the main and setting the reef.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Nautiduck</i> <br />John, I'm planning to move the self-tailers to the coaming and put one 6C on the deck where one 16ST is now on starboard to use for raising the main and setting the reef. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Sorry guys, we are moving in a couple days and I've been tied up packing. We're headed to the coast of NC.
One winch on the starboard side cabin would do you, but remember your going to have holes where the other one was on the port side.
Also the bolt hole pattern will likely have to be adjusted from the winches you move to the coaming and the 6C you replace them with. I had to fill a couple holes and drill a couple new ones. Not a big deal since the 6C's I put back on the cabin top covered the holes I filled in.
Randy, I used the winchers, the rubber tailers, which have helped single handing and racing. The C25 with the toe rail cars with blocks I use to adjust the line to the winch so it won't override. An override can ruin a perfect tack.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Nautiduck</i> <br />I plan a setup like Tom Potter:
Don and Jim, thanks for the tips re overrides. Lewmar recommends that the line come to the winch at a 5-10 degree angle. It appears that Tom's setup does that. If not then the solution, I think, would be to mount the winch on a riser.
Randy, I have a 98WB and am planning the same job in the next few weeks so I hope you keep this topic going with the results of your job. I have the winches and blocks but I'll wait until the boat is in the water to do the job for two reasons. 1st the electric is right at the dock while my location in the yard is several hundred feet away from the nearest outlet. 2nd, I want to replace my tiller...it should be here any day. The new model will be a few inches different from the existing tiller (not the original). It's not that the tiller could possibly interfere with the winches but it might move the location of where I sit by a few inches and I want to get the winch location just right. Actually I was thinking four or five inches aft of where it is in Tom's pictures. Also, I noticed in Tom's pictures there is a fairlead that appears to be a clamp-on on the front of the u-shaped stanchion. I've not seen the clamp-on type on the web sites I've visited. Does anyone know brand or source? As always THANK YOU to all on this site for the great info.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by jlannutti</i> <br />Randy, I have a 98WB and am planning the same job in the next few weeks so I hope you keep this topic going with the results of your job. I have the winches and blocks but I'll wait until the boat is in the water to do the job for two reasons. 1st the electric is right at the dock while my location in the yard is several hundred feet away from the nearest outlet. 2nd, I want to replace my tiller...it should be here any day. The new model will be a few inches different from the existing tiller (not the original). It's not that the tiller could possibly interfere with the winches but it might move the location of where I sit by a few inches and I want to get the winch location just right. Actually I was thinking four or five inches aft of where it is in Tom's pictures. Also, I noticed in Tom's pictures there is a fairlead that appears to be a clamp-on on the front of the u-shaped stanchion. I've not seen the clamp-on type on the web sites I've visited. Does anyone know brand or source? As always THANK YOU to all on this site for the great info.
My winches are installed on angle winch pads. My jib sheets go to the stantion the cabin top only (you can see the line running just behind the Admiral). This works for me - just have to watch you footing going to the cabin top as the jib sheet passes over the coaming.
This is the block on the stanchion base with a stainless clamp holding it in to the stanchion. The line passes from the jib block on the track, inside of the fairlead block (block points to centerline of boat), to the winch.
Steve, the Defender sale was so good, and the deal on the stanchion blocks as well, that I opted to go a little bigger and bought the Lewmar 7C winch. I am not counting on the holes to line up. Life isn't like that!
Joe, I went with the four articulating stanchion blocks. Tom Potter indicates in one of his posts that he would replace his stationary (Spinlock) with the articulating stanchion blocks at some point. I think the articulating stanchion blocks will provide a better fairlead. I think the fellow still has some on ebay. I will take pictures of the project and post. Probably in the next few weeks.
Wil, I like your setup too. Have you considered a pedestal guard? We love ours. It allows a fold-down table, drink holders, GPS chartplotter mount, etc. I'm really glad we added one.
Randy, I added the pedistal guard last summer (that was an older photo). I like having the extra hand hold when moving around the cockpit as well as being able to mount accessories.
Note: When I installed the guard, I bought a straight guard off ebay. The straight guard interfered with the Edson pedistal controls for the engine/shifter. So I took the guard to work and an electricion friend and I used his conduit bender and turned the straight guard into the newer style two angle guards. Works great now.
I have considered the pedastal guard as well, can you tell me the pros / cons and explain how much trouble it was to install? (Pictures?) Which guard did you use, size etc. I am obviously concerned about drilling holes in the deck but really like the idea of a guard.
More questions regarding my upcoming winch installation. What did you use to secure the winches. I bought two new Lewmar 7Cs.I believe Lewmar's site recommends #10 fasteners. I had a sheet of stainless laying around the garage for years from an auto repair job. I plan to use pieces of it as a backing plate. It is just too heavy to cut with snips or shears but too light to cut with a reciprocating saw. After much aggrivation I have pieces that fit flush against the top of the two coaming "compartments". This will work great if I end up mounting them there. If I go forwrad of those compartments I'll need to gain access to the bottom of the coaming and trim these backing plates to another size. I'm trying to let the optimal location for the winch determine the spot I pick and not ease of installation. Any suggestions? How have others secured the winches?
Joe, the advice of Tom Potter and Arlyn Stewart, two forum members who's advice I trust, is that large stainless steel fender washers are enough for the backing. Catalina, after all, uses washers to mount the 16STs on the deck. That is what I plan to do.
I think you were wise to buy two of the 7Cs. I'm going to have to develop my gelcoat matching skills pretty quick on the port side where I'll need to fill and mask those holes.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Nautiduck</i> <br />.... I'm going to have to develop my gelcoat matching skills pretty quick on the port side where I'll need to fill and mask those holes. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Can you say "cupholder"?
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.