Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Chuck, Here's what I did to stop my port from leaking. I removed the window channel and window as a unit. Then I used Permatex Flowable Windshield Sealant to replace the decomposing rubber trim between the window and the aluminum channel on the outside of the window. With the window out you can rotate the window to use gravity to make sure the sealant gets way down in the crack. Then I placed a bead of 5200 around the aluminum where it meets the boat and rebedded the unit. No more leak.
I would just like to mention that 5200, especially for newbies who my find the world of caulks, sealants, and adhesives dizzying, is a PERMANENT adhesive. If an item is mechanically fastened to the hull, you may be better served by the long term flexibility of a polysufide bedding compound. Boat/US or West Marine has excellent discussions of the various product types to help you decide what to use in your application.
I forgot to mention that I think the Permatex idea might be a good alternative for anyone not wanting the expense, labor, and corroded things falling apart of new gasketing kits from CD. Windshields seem to stay leak free in a far worse environment than ports and portlights, and I would guess that it is solvent removable if choose to go back to gaskets.
How easy is it to remove the aluminum frame from the cabin sides? What is the best method without causing damage? It doesn't appear to be that easy. Also, 5200 is recommended to put them back on? Like Dave said and I've heard before, 5200 is more permanent. Will you be able to remove it in the future for rebedding or sealing? This is a project I plan to do this season.
I plan to find out how difficult it is to remove he frames this summer, others already know. In the sailing world, you will probable learn to say "how difficult" instead of "how easy"
To remove the frames you remove the screws along the interior edge of the window, but be careful. It requires pushing the window out from the inside. If you don't have a method to catch the window, it can easily go into the drink or crash to the pavement below. Maybe someone can suggest a method to overcome this if you are working alone.
Single handed method to catch pop-ed out window? Duct tape to the rescue. Prior to pushing window unit out, fashion a simple "catch-net" of duct tape (and maybe an old t-shirt) affixed to the exterior cabin top so as to trap the window so it can't fall.
I wonder about the replacement gasket that CD sells for the position between the inside frame and the outside window. Is there anything else that people have tried that works as well??
Make sure the leak is coming from the window, I replaced the gaskets on one side using the kit from CD. It was a little bit of a pain but not too bad. I had also re-bedded my exterior teak around the same time. Afterwards the windows on both sides seemed to stop leaking, so I think the leaks may have been coming from the grabrails above the windows not the portlights. I didn't have to do the windows on the other side.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.