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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Cleaning hatch slide

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vagabond II
1st Mate

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USA
42 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/26/2008 : 10:42:35

I have a 1981 C25 Standard rig dinette configuration.
I would like to remove my sliding hatch to remove debris that is in the track.
Is there anyone out there that has had any experience removing the hatch on this model.
I was wondering if it was just matter of removing the two teak slide rails to be able to remove the hatch.
I tried using an air compressor to blow the dirt out of the track but that didn't quite do the job.

Ben H. Brooks

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 04/26/2008 : 17:41:23

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by vagabond II
 I was wondering if it was just matter of removing the two teak slide rails to be able to remove the hatch.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Yep, that's about it.

Edited by - on

Dave Otey
Navigator

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USA
112 Posts

Response Posted - 04/26/2008 : 21:11:23

removal of one teak rail should suffice.

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5445 Posts

Response Posted - 04/26/2008 : 22:52:58

Removing a slide rail is an easy way to clean out this section and relube it. There are a few gotchas on this however:
1. Removal of the rail can be tricky if it was bedded with Polysulfide caulk. It will be pretty stuck, so once you pull all the screws, it still may not budge.
Using a crowbar, prybar or fat screwdriver can damage the wood or the topsides, so be very careful. I found it best to get 2 or 3 prybars and back each with a wide putty knife to spread the load.

2. So once you have the rail off, it is easy to drop the slider into the salon and crack some essential part. Good to have someone spot you when you finally get it free.

You should find two teflon backed rubber sliding disks (about 2" in diameter) that ride under the end of the slider, and keep it from catching or sticking. At least mine did.

3. After you clean out the slot junk, you need to reposition the teflon disks, reposition the slider, coat the bottom of the teak with Polysulfide, prevent it from getting all over everything and screwing it in.

None of this is terribly difficult, and you should be able to do it in an hour or two. It just requires a good deal of care and exactitude.

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 04/27/2008 : 04:52:24

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Voyager
 You should find two teflon backed rubber sliding disks (about 2" in diameter) that ride under the end of the slider, and keep it from catching or sticking. At least mine did.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I believe your DPO installed those disk slides. I have them also and they do indeed stop the hatch from screeching.

Edited by - on

roberoo
Navigator

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USA
182 Posts

Response Posted - 04/27/2008 : 09:01:32

Any idea where to get those teflon disks?

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 04/27/2008 : 11:10:54

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dlucier
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Voyager
 You should find two teflon backed rubber sliding disks (about 2" in diameter) that ride under the end of the slider, and keep it from catching or sticking. At least mine did.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I believe your DPO installed those disk slides. I have them also and they do indeed stop the hatch from screeching.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Correctomundo. They came from the local hardware store--chair sliders with rubber collars which I cut notches into to fit on the forward edges of the hatch, positioned to ride on the raised rails. That not only reduces or eliminates the screeching, but takes the load off the flanges that fit into the teak tracks--they should not be bearing the load.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 04/27/2008 11:11:49

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5445 Posts

Response Posted - 04/27/2008 : 12:01:30

Dave - you are a gifted tinkerer.

They looked awfully suspicious, as the Admiral had me put something very similar to these on the kitchen chairs to prevent skuffing the tile floors. They also work like a charm.

I used silicone spray to keep the screeching down where the fiberglass lip rubs in the teak tracks, and under the rubber collars.

I drew a sketch in a Word Doc of where the rubber collars fit on the sliding hatch, but can't figure out how to post a word doc on this Forum. If anybody wants a copy, please email me directly.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 04/27/2008 : 12:16:57

Bruce: A photo would be easier to post, and could illustrate the concept just fine. Sorry I don't have one.

Edited by - on

Chris Z
Captain

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452 Posts

Response Posted - 04/27/2008 : 21:53:24

Here is a picture of the Japanese glide tape I bought from APS.

http://www.apsltd.com/

Edited by - Chris Z on 04/27/2008 22:01:18

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 04/27/2008 : 22:56:55

I'm not exactly sure what you guys are talking about since I've never looked at the hatch on a C-25 up close. However, if you're looking for something slippery for the hatch to ride on, I can recommend [url="http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32182&cat=1,110,43466"]UHMW tape[/url], that's what I re-lined my hatch sliders with last year.

If you do get this stuff, be careful when laying it down, it's really hard to get it back off of whatever it touches. The upside of this is that it's got a very tenacious grip once it's down. It'll pull paint right up if you try to take it off of a painted surface.

Edited by - delliottg on 04/27/2008 23:01:43

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 04/28/2008 : 07:54:49

I'm still on my original set of nylon furniture slides that I put on my hatch in 2002. Not a bad $2.00 investment.

The flanges on my hatch were worn down which allowed the sliding hatch to rub against the raised fiberglass channels that are on the cabintop just inboard of each teak hatch rail. This fiberglass-to-fiberglass rubbing caused the fingernail to chalkboard like screech.

To alleviate this noise, I went to the hardware store and bought a package of plain old nylon furniture slides. These slides are about the size of quarter and maybe a 1/4" thick. I cut a 1/4" wide channel/notch across the slide, about half the depth of the nylon slide. To install all you do is lift the forward part of the hatch and tuck a slide, notch side up, on each side of the hatch directly on the raised fiberglass channels. The forward lip of the hatch is then inserted into the notch on the slide to lock it in place. Now the nylon slide is riding smoothly on the raised channel instead of the fiberglass hatch and not only is the screech gone, but the hatch moves much easier.

You don't want to use too thick of a slide because then the hatch flange will contact the upper side of the teak rail causing it to bind. You can also install thin slides from inside the cabin for the aft end of the hatch by simply using two sided tape on the slide to adhere it to the roof of the hatch. Just lift up the hatch slightly, then tuck them in over the raised fiberglass channels.

With the slides in place, the hatch is now riding on the raised channels instead of the teak rails.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 04/28/2008 : 09:05:03

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dlucier
 ...With the slides in place, the hatch is now riding on the raised channels instead of the teak rails.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">...which IMHO is where it should ride. Great idea, Don!

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 04/28/2008 : 15:17:06

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Dave Bristle
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dlucier
 ...With the slides in place, the hatch is now riding on the raised channels instead of the teak rails.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">...which IMHO is where it should ride. Great idea, Don!

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

As they say, even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while.

Edited by - dlucier on 04/28/2008 15:20:21

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 04/28/2008 : 16:13:21

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 04/28/2008 : 17:43:38

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Dave Bristle
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dlucier
 As they say, even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">My vague recollection, correct me, is that you did it by cutting the nails off some chair sliders and somehow taping (?)them in place...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Actually, I pulled the nails out from the backside. As to the taping, I only used tape on the aft inside sliders, but those have since fell out. The forward sliders were always notched and remain to this day. Initially, I was concerned about wearing out the gelcoat that the sliders ride on, but after 6 years or so, it shows no signs of wear. I do wax the slider rails every year.

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